86 X19 fuel pump..

Oops...

+10.
The fuel pump should run initially for about 10 seconds once the AFM flap switch has been activated, it should turn the fuel pump of when the AFM flap is closed.

With L-Jet there is no timer/primer in the fuel pump circuit. It only runs if the flap is open or when the starter is operated.
 
I did bridge these two terminals when I soldered:
20141015_151413_zpsd4f116ac.jpg


But I saw they bridged, I tried soldering excess away and scraping carefully with a knife, but that just scraped the green covering away exposing metal underneath and I realized both of those terminals were soldered to the 'same contact strip' it seemed, I did my best to clear away anyway and they all tested continuous.. ahh well what was done was done I could only test at this point..
not sure if THAT is whats causing the pump to run at all times..

It DOES start off starter fluid, but doesn't keep running even though I can hear the pump running.

Pump polarity is wired right,
I need to buy a fuel pressure gauge I can hook up and test.

I'm waiting for a new relay from Budgetzagato..
 
Easy over sight

I have been down this fuel problem road. Most recent today. Found a wire on the relay harness slightly dislodged. My pump would run too, but only had 1.7v. Might be worth a look.
 
Those two you bridged are not the problem, they are on the same contact strip .

Did you check that your flap is closed at rest?

An easy pressure check is just to crack the Fuel pressure regulator inlet line after the system has primed, which should be immediate if your pump is running continuously. If you get a fairly high pressure spray as you carefully loosen the fitting just a little (!) then lack of pressure is likely not the reason it won't run. If there is no head pressure, then you have a problem. That would be easy to check until you do get a pressure tester.
 
OK... so it is definately a fuel delivery problem...

Are you using the FI Troubleshooting Guide?

You can usually BORROW a fuel pressure gauge tester from AutoZone or Pep Boys...

But I highly recommend you walk through the test process "religiously and sequentially" so that you PROVE or DISPROVE a component.

Just in case you haven't, go here:

http://www.angelfire.com/wa2/fits/index.html#ljetguide
 
Next step...

Check for injector pulse (stethoscope or noid light). Verify ECU signal wire from coil is attached to coil terminal 1 (-).
 
flap closed,
relay plugged in, pump just runs

I pulled off the hose from the FPR, with the pump running, fuel starts to spray out as the hose comes off slowly.

I checked voltage at the pump when its continuously running, 11.96V all seems normal there..

Signal wire plugged in at the coil, you would think the ECU is getting the signal to open the injectors no? Firing off starter fluid in this situation, you would think the problem must be injectors opening..
 
budgetzagato, I got your dual relay,
I plugged it in and I get the same result- fuel pump runs continuously when the white plug is plugged in.

Still no start.. I could get noid lights tomorrow and test for injector pulse that way..

Any idea what other wiring mistake could cause the fuel pump to run continuously outside of dual relay malfunction?
 
Use the F.I. test guide to check the AFM flap switch. Could be stuck closed. Test at the ECU harness plug (this also checks the harness wiring).
 
How can I check the AFM flap switch, besides taking the square cover off the top and can you then see the switch inside? I don't think its stuck closed. The flap itself springs back as usual, no ammount of tapping on it or playing with the flap has any effect.

I finally had time, bought some NOID lights. BoschPFI fits ours correct..
I didn't have any help just barely, used the 4' fiber optic extension cable to test myself from drivers seat. No light pulses I could see. I'll have my buddy home tonight so he can help me crank the engine while I look at the light myself to double-check, but I don't think I'm getting injector pulse.
(I had the dual relay plugged in and pump continuously running while I cranked the engine for this test)

Pump runs continuously whenever the dual relay is installed, key in the ignition or not..
 
Something is very wrong if your pump runs as long as the battery is connected& the relay is removed. No voltage is supplied to the pump without the relay unless you have a short in the wiring so that battery voltage is continuously feeding the pump. Have you used a test light to see whether the + or - side of the pump is being energized? With a short in the wiring, it could go either way. In other words the pump could be running backwards.

Either way, you need to determine your wiring fault before you go further.

To answer the other question , removing the air flow cover will allow you access to the pump switch - it's the far left trigger contacts when you look inside - a mechanical points set that make contact as the flap moves. Easy to identify.
 
Easy...

How can I check the AFM flap switch, besides taking the square cover off the top and can you then see the switch inside?

The switch is tested by using a VOM at the ECU end of the wire harness, the long plug-in part. Unplug the ECU connector and connect an ohmmeter between terminals 10 and 20. When the flap is open, there should be continuity (no resistance). When the flap is closed, there should be no continuity (infinite resistance).

I would also test the coil signal circuit while doing this, terminal 1 of the ECU plug. This is the wire that tells the ECU to pulse the ground of the injectors.

This information is in the F.I. troubleshooting guides.

But as Hussein has said, something is wrong if plugging the dual relay in runs the pump. The relay should not activate the pump unless the the key is on, and then only if the AFM flap is open or, if the starter is operated. Do you have other potential sources of this problem like a starter relay or remote starter?
 
Pump runs continuously whenever the dual relay is installed, key in the ignition or not..

Well, this little tidbit changes everything. You're saying that the pump runs with the dual relay plugged in even with the key off?

Does anything ELSE appear to be live that shouldn't be with the key off? (for instance, is the voltmeter in the cluster even partially above where it sits with the battery disconnected?)

If NOTHING else appears to be powered when it shouldn't, unplug the connector on the AFM. Does the pump still run with the relay in and key off?

Are the wires connected to the pump black and green with black stripe?
 
Yes, I know something is seriously wrong if the pump runs without the key.

Nothing else appears to be powered, pump just runs when you plug the white plug into the relay.

I can do some testing in the morning. Where is the ECU located?

Purple wire is fuel pump ground, green/blk wire is fuel pump positive. Fuel pump is running correctly not in reverse.
 
I can do some testing in the morning. Where is the ECU located?

The ECU is located behind the spare wheel. I would have a closer look at the dual relay before starting to poke around the ECU. Specifically, check the dual relay for continuity between terminal 88d and each of the other terminals. Terminal 88d should have continuity to 88c and no other terminal. If 88d has continuity to any other terminal, in particular 88y or 88z, you have found your problem.
 
The ECU is located behind the spare wheel. I would have a closer look at the dual relay before starting to poke around the ECU. Specifically, check the dual relay for continuity between terminal 88d and each of the other terminals. Terminal 88d should have continuity to 88c and no other terminal. If 88d has continuity to any other terminal, in particular 88y or 88z, you have found your problem.

Ok..
remember I have 2 different dual relays here now I'm trying, they both do the same thing either one..

Tested, both relays seem to be correct, only continuity between 88d and 88c.

Confirmed that my fuel system problems are 2-fold at this time, pump runs continuously when relay white plug is connected, and I am NOT getting fuel injector pulse.
 
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