86 X19 fuel pump..

That's probably suggesting that your Fuel Pump Relay is shot.
That is what is feeding those two wires to the pump.
 
Ok, couple corrections,

The green fuel pump wire gets .1V when cranking, not 1V.

20141007_090755_zps1f613583.jpg


And when I say 12V in that picture, I think I'm seeing battery voltage, anywhere from 16V at times to 12.xV

So the thick red and brown w/ white stripe are battery constant. The pink gets power when the key is in the accessory position. And the fuel pump green w/ black stripe only gets .1V when the engine is cranking!

Points to a bad relay?
Anyone have one to sell me less than $51 at midwest bayless? Or should I check to order at NAPA?
 
Take the relay apart...

There are a couple of diodes in there and a small circuit with 2 relays.
You have nothing to lose. Give it a try.
 
sigh,
YES,
bridged the connection, new pump runs fine!

Any tips on where I can source the cheapest new relay?
 
The thing is, I believe the pump circuit in the relay won't switch power without the appropriate input signals (pulse from ignition?, someone should know if there is more involved) - you need to confirm all those are present, as the relay may not necessarily be the problem. A little more diagnostic is in order before you buy something you may not need.

I don't recall if it's power or ground to the pump that is switched via the air flow meter, for instance.
 
You should have power all the time at (with respect to gnd):
88Y on the relay
86A in start mode
86B with the AFM flap open (ignition on)

85 is switch through the computer (to gnd)
88D is the output (+) to the pump, the other end of the pump goes to gnd

Hope this helps.

John
 
My 2 cents is to also verify the connections leading in...

from the engine bay... as one member here found that water had traveled INSIDE the loom and corroded the connections INSIDE the spare tire well.

Hope you fine it soon... and it ain't too costly!
 
I also had corrosion INSIDE my FI's wiring loom. Checking the ohms readings at the ECU will show this (like the FI troubleshooting guide), if the component is good but the readings aren't, the wiring or connections are suspect
 
shoot..

so, going off strangepod's recommendation, I think I can check pin 85's continuity to ground, and it should only be continuous to ground and pulsing when the engine is being cranked? And if it is never continuous to ground.. then my problem could lie in a wiring issue and not in a bad relay

do I have that right?
 
When cranking, the 85 may be intermittent ground due to the AFM flap contacts being intermittently closed by the flap as the engine cranks. A better test is to hold the flap open with the key on and test it then.
 
budgetzagato said:
When cranking, the 85 may be intermittent ground due to the AFM flap contacts being intermittently closed by the flap as the engine cranks. A better test is to hold the flap open with the key on and test it then.
Click to expand...

Agreed, stick something to hold the flap open and check. Make note that this is the input (signal side) of the relay, make sure you have power on the output side(88D) - should be battery voltage, when the key is on and the flap is open.

Have you checked the inline fuse (per the drawing). should be a 16amp (16amp, huh? - anyway) If you have battery voltage at pin 88Y with the key off it should be good.

John
 
My signal wire to pin 85 is grounded all the time, with the key off, and with the key on and the flap held open..
 
How do you know it is always grounded? If it was always grounded (assuming everything else was ok) your pump would be working all the time. If you are using a meter you might be reading through something. Use a REAL test light (not one of these LED ones) and place it from 85 to 86a.

john
 
TajMan said:
I was just asking is that what it's supposed to do.. ?

Pin 85 is always grounded
Click to expand...

It appears the fuel pump relay gets its ground through the ECM, but I'm not sure it's actually switched without an ECM schematic or at least having one to open. I see no reason for it to be.

The positive to pull the relay in is supplied by 86a and/or 86b. 86a is the keyswitch START position, while 86b comes from the switch activated by the flapper door inside the AFM.

Key to run, flapper door pushed in, you should have power on 86b relative to a good grounding point on the chassis.
 
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