What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

[Dr.Jeff]

I wonder if there's much difference in weight between a original MM starter and a original Bosch one?

 

[Alain - The Red Scorpion]

Thanks. And did it help a bit with hose clearance? Seemed likely to my eyeball.

Had to tuck some hoses away to get access to the bolts and to jam the starter through. Mind you I also have an oil cooler with its hoses in the way...

 

[Alain - The Red Scorpion]

Also meant to reply to the post regarding oil seeping from around the oil sender. In my case, it was not the oil sender but the oil dipstick tube that threads into the block. Removed it, wrapped it with silicone tape and re-installed it tight. Problem solved.

 

[tigeravg]

Had to tuck some hoses away to get access to the bolts and to jam the starter through. Mind you I also have an oil cooler with its hoses in the way...

My interest was in how the rad hoses now fit. Or if there is any difference at all.

 

[ng_randolph]

Thanks. And did it help a bit with hose clearance? Seemed likely to my eyeball.

My interest was in how the rad hoses now fit. Or if there is any difference at all.

The hoses fit fine with the gear reduction starter, but I don't remember if if there was an improvement over the fit with the OEM unit. Access to the electrical connections is much better with the gear reduction unit; they are in plain view from below. I know people are able to replace the starter working from above, and complain about how difficult it is. Working from below, starter replacement is trivial.

 

[JKIDD]

I wonder if there's much difference in weight between a original MM starter and a original Bosch one?

Last year I had both types trying to get 1 to work. I don't remember any significant weight difference. I ended up going with the gear reduction unit. I still have the old starters (hoarder) & see if I can get a weight on them.

 

[My1stCar]

We participated in a classics car regularity rallye. The older the car the lower the multiplication factor of the penaty points

The orange 1975 Corvette finished 2nd and the Peugeot 104 ZX Ralley (bi-color white/blue next to us) 1st..

The oldest car was a Triumph TR3 of 1959 in the back of the picture, with several Austin Healies of '59, '60 and '62.

Next a 1968 Volo Amazon and a rare Honda S800 of '69 (bought by the current owner in 1974!)

This was our first roadbook rallye, expectations were low, and we needed the GPS "safeguard" instructions to make it on time to lunch and dinner, but managed some parts rather well (depending on the type of instructions used in the roadbook) and enjoyed the well-organised event (despite the rain).

We later heard from other participants with over 20 years of this type of events under their belts that this was one of more complicated ones, and the reason they came to this event, others being "not challenging enough".

We'll definitely will do a similar event in the future, but will target a simpler version (and practice more)

 

[Dr.Jeff]

We participated in a classics car regularity rallye. The older the car the lower the multiplication factor of the penaty points
View attachment 84455
The orange 1975 Corvette finished 2nd and the Peugeot 104 ZX Ralley (bi-color white/blue next to us) 1st..

The oldest car was a Triumph TR3 of 1959 in the back of the picture, with several Austin Healies of '59, '60 and '62.
View attachment 84456
Next a 1968 Volo Amazon and a rare Honda S800 of '69 (bought by the current owner in 1974!)
View attachment 84457

This was our first roadbook rallye, expectations were low, and we needed the GPS "safeguard" instructions to make it on time to lunch and dinner, but managed some parts rather well (depending on the type of instructions used in the roadbook) and enjoyed the well-organised event (despite the rain).

We later heard from other participants with over 20 years of this type of events under their belts that this was one of more complicated ones, and the reason they came to this event, others being "not challenging enough".

We'll definitely will do a similar event in the future, but will target a simpler version (and practice more)

Lots of very cool cars there.

 

[Alain - The Red Scorpion]

Found my slave cylinder was leaking last week. Ordered a replacement from MWB. Bench primed it as best I could. Installed and bled it. Re adjusted the clutch...Good to go! Beautiful day today, sunny and in the low 60's. Headed down the Jersey shore to visit my sister. I'm not a fan of droning down the highway for miles on end, (Especially when I have so many excellent roads near where I live) but I was so pleased with the way my car just purred down the Garden State Parkway. 70 to 80 MPH (3800 to 4200 rpms) for an hour each way, without skipping a beat. Car felt like it could it all day long! P.S. I'm knocking on my wooden desk, as I write this!

I'm replacing the clutch slave cylindre on my 1980. You mention bench priming. How? Thx

 

[Schuey]

Completed my bumper conversion. Special thanks to Doug for the custom brackets

 

[Tom Ginefra]

I'm replacing the clutch slave cylindre on my 1980. You mention bench priming. How? Thx

I'm sure some would say it's not necessary, because the cylinder displaces such a small amount of fluid when actuated. Really it's just making sure it works, and that you have as much fluid in the slave as you can, to displace as much air as possible before installation. Similar to how you'd prime a master, but on a smaller scale. Place in vice, remove plug, carefully actuate the piston to express whatever fluid may have come with the cylinder, refill and top off with your own fluid. Re apply the plug and do your best to spill as little as possible during installation. In my opinion it also makes the bleeding easier. I can't remember how many times I had to actuate the clutch when bleeding the original slave I installed, but it seemed this time it went much faster. I had a helper and mine was fully bled in 2 or 3 pumps of the clutch. It helps of course, to have something you can hook behind the clutch pedal, (while seated) to retract the pedal when the spring goes over center and the pedal stays on the floor for the first pump, or so.

 

[Alain - The Red Scorpion]

Completed my bumper conversion. Special thanks to Doug for the custom bracketsView attachment 84459

Black Beauty. Bravo!

 

[Alain - The Red Scorpion]

I'm sure some would say it's not necessary, because the cylinder displaces such a small amount of fluid when actuated. Really it's just making sure it works, and that you have as much fluid in the slave as you can, to displace as much air as possible before installation. Similar to how you'd prime a master, but on a smaller scale. Place in vice, remove plug, carefully actuate the piston to express whatever fluid may have come with the cylinder, refill and top off with your own fluid. Re apply the plug and do your best to spill as little as possible during installation. In my opinion it also makes the bleeding easier. I can't remember how many times I had to actuate the clutch when bleeding the original slave I installed, but it seemed this time it went much faster. I had a helper and mine was fully bled in 2 or 3 pumps of the clutch. It helps of course, to have something you can hook behind the clutch pedal, (while seated) to retract the pedal when the spring goes over center and the pedal stays on the floor for the first pump, or so.

Many thanks. Forza X