What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

[Alex(Tenerife)]

If it is just coolant from the manifold then dry it out as best you can and it should be ok. A little coolant in here as a one off is not a bit deal, as long as it just manifold coolant.

 

[KBabcock]

Took my ‘75 out for a little run. Brake pedal went almost to the floor on the way back and no leaks anywhere. That’s 3 years on this master cylinder. Arrrrrgh!

I still don't really understand why the Master cylinders go out so often on these cars, you would think they would have corrected the issue by now.

 

[Chromaphase]

I still don't really understand why the Master cylinders go out so often on these cars, you would think they would have corrected the issue by now.

Can you just use any other master cylinder for the brake system ?
Seems others have problem with the clutch cylinder as well quite often...

 

[Chromaphase]

If it is just coolant from the manifold then dry it out as best you can and it should be ok. A little coolant in here as a one off is not a bit deal, as long as it just manifold coolant.

Itsnt mine, its a screenshot from YT video...
I didnt even know there would be coolant in the exhaust manifold to begin with !
Just wondering if anyone had the same issue before or just that guy in the video

 

[JimD]

Itsnt mine, its a screenshot from YT video...
I didnt even know there would be coolant in the exhaust manifold to begin with !
Just wondering if anyone had the same issue before or just that guy in the video

The coolant passages are definitely present on the manifold, even on the FI manifold where they are not needed. There is a petcock on the block, I would drain the coolant from there. If the petcock is stuck, you can drain from a hose that is lower than the manifold. Refilling the coolant system isn't that difficult. I would prefer to lower the coolant level than to clean coolant out of the head.

 

[Alex(Tenerife)]

Itsnt mine, its a screenshot from YT video...
I didnt even know there would be coolant in the exhaust manifold to begin with !
Just wondering if anyone had the same issue before or just that guy in the video

The coolant, from memory, is a part of the inlet manifold. The photo you showed us has both inlet and exhaust off and I believe the coolant is sitting on the inlet valve.

When you take the inlet manifold off a little can drip out, but I don't recall it filling the inlet when I have done this (when I had a stock engine).

Maybe in the video you found the expansion tank cap was off? Or maybe if the carb has the auto choke where that was resting or if the hoses are closed off.

To be safe you can drain the coolant down a little, but dropping a little coolant isn't the end of the world either. A few drops won't hurt, but all that in one go would not be ideal.

 

[dllubin]

Unless you want coolant flowing through the intake manifold coolant passages, I recommend you block off the two passages on the head that feed the intake manifold. I used an M8 tap and a couple of set screws with pipe joint compound on the threads.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

I still don't really understand why the Master cylinders go out so often on these cars, you would think they would have corrected the issue by now.

I think it is simply a quality issue. And no real motivation to improve that since they're selling lots of them as they are.

 

[Chromaphase]

The coolant, from memory, is a part of the inlet manifold. The photo you showed us has both inlet and exhaust off and I believe the coolant is sitting on the inlet valve.

When you take the inlet manifold off a little can drip out, but I don't recall it filling the inlet when I have done this (when I had a stock engine).

Maybe in the video you found the expansion tank cap was off? Or maybe if the carb has the auto choke where that was resting or if the hoses are closed off.

To be safe you can drain the coolant down a little, but dropping a little coolant isn't the end of the world either. A few drops won't hurt, but all that in one go would not be ideal.

I see thanks ! Yeah I just did this... drained out a bit of coulant (like 4 liters) so there would be less pressure.
Will keep the tank closed I guess !
Yeah I usually dont see this on other video/photos of taking off the exhaust so maybe this was a special occasion !

 

[Chromaphase]

Unless you want coolant flowing through the intake manifold coolant passages, I recommend you block off the two passages on the head that feed the intake manifold. I used an M8 tap and a couple of set screws with pipe joint compound on the threads.

Actually in the video he is doing just this... but... I guess coolant should jsut go there, if its designed this way.
Wont be an issue for me I dont plan on changing my exhaust over and over again !

related : Photo of my new exhaust from ricambituning.it

Also at the same time, Im upgrading my steering wheel, becasue Im quite tall and the wheel is touching my right knee.
So I bought an adapter for a sport steering wheel.

However, I would like to try to keep the bertone wheel but with the adapter, thinking of piecering holes in it to be about to screw it up on the adapter. Also then I can switch easily to a smaller 32cm steering wheel when racing.

Anyone have done this ? Easy to pierce the holes etc... Im just struggling to see how I could keep the central part rubber, not even talking about functioning horn, but more about to keep the design of the wheel and the central rubber part.

 

[kmead]

Hello Guys,
Just received my new sport inox exhaust, will share with you very soon !

However...
I have seen in a video this kind of thing would happen when taking off the exhaust manifold.
Do I need to drain the entire system ? Or maybe just half of it ?
Or just need to be careful ?

Thanks !

View attachment 83932

You need to remove enough coolant to be below the two open holes which used to feed coolant into a carbureted manifold.

One can tap the holes and fill them with a grub screw with sealant. This was covered recently in a few threads.

 

[kmead]

It’s not that they haven’t been corrected. The OE ones lasted a long time. I have OE ones in my 1985 which I installed in 1993 and have not given me any trouble.

The issue is the OE manufacturer stopped making them and the parts have wandered from maker to maker in small lots. The various makers don’t have an opportunity to ‘learn’ and improve.

We are also a bunch of cheap bastards and won’t pay for ‘good’ ones since it is a cheap car…

I still don't really understand why the Master cylinders go out so often on these cars, you would think they would have corrected the issue by now.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

The issue is the OE manufacturer stopped making them

Exactly. Although I didn't state it, that was part of my point about the quality issue. The currently available units (i.e. non-OEM) are what I was referring to in my prior comment (post #3028)....[holy moly, this thread has that many posts?!}.

 

[Chromaphase]

Exactly. Although I didn't state it, that was part of my point about the quality issue. The currently available units (i.e. non-OEM) are what I was referring to in my prior comment (post #3028)....[holy moly, this thread has that many posts?!}.

This remember me another thread about points vs electronic ignition.
OE points from the 70/s are good.
Today if you buy points, yeah its cheap, like 7 euros, but mine melted, so I replaced it with yet another point.
I have a spare point in my trunk, just in case

 

[Chromaphase]

Here is my work on the new exhaust,
so its from italian shop racingrocambi.it

As same as other after market exhaust, the finition and bits are sketchy.
However, after some work (several hours...) I made it fit.
The real pain is the fiberglass strap, even with gloves, It pierces my skin, and after I have all my hands with invisible micro cut needle.
When I first started that heat strap was fuming crazy but stopped after 5min.

I cleaned the intake manifold a lot so not to have vaccum leak etc...
THIS VIDEO helped me a lot, different car and exhaust but exactly the same problem...
Cutting washers, brackets, etc..
On my caase I bought some rubber silent block that I will use to avoid the shaking.

Just bolted the silencer cruddly for now and had a ride to test for leak etc it was all perfect !

So next step is the build the silent block bracket for the silencer.

I changed it because my OE exhaust was broken.
I believe the stainless steel way lower heat conductivity and the heat strap will really give less heat to the intake manifold.
Also its way lighter, Im still trying to get my X lighter, instead to give it more power !

 

[Alain - The Red Scorpion]

Here is my work on the new exhaust,
so its from italian shop racingrocambi.it

As same as other after market exhaust, the finition and bits are sketchy.
However, after some work (several hours...) I made it fit.
The real pain is the fiberglass strap, even with gloves, It pierces my skin, and after I have all my hands with invisible micro cut needle.
When I first started that heat strap was fuming crazy but stopped after 5min.

I cleaned the intake manifold a lot so not to have vaccum leak etc...
THIS VIDEO helped me a lot, different car and exhaust but exactly the same problem...
Cutting washers, brackets, etc..
On my caase I bought some rubber silent block that I will use to avoid the shaking.

Just bolted the silencer cruddly for now and had a ride to test for leak etc it was all perfect !

So next step is the build the silent block bracket for the silencer.

I changed it because my OE exhaust was broken.
I believe the stainless steel way lower heat conductivity and the heat strap will really give less heat to the intake manifold.
Also its way lighter, Im still trying to get my X lighter, instead to give it more power !



View attachment 84046View attachment 84047

View attachment 84048View attachment 84049

View attachment 84050

"Im still trying to get my X lighter, instead to give it more power !" That's the way to go, in my humble opinion. Many bits are very heavy, Example: the glovebox cover weighs 1 kg !! Not to mention the US bumpers.

 

[Chromaphase]

"Im still trying to get my X lighter, instead to give it more power !" That's the way to go, in my humble opinion. Many bits are very heavy, Example: the glovebox cover weighs 1 kg !! Not to mention the US bumpers.

This is my weight accounting related to hp
everytime you lose 10kg, you win 1hp, so to speak...

920kg 85hp
859kg stage 1
839kg stage 2
819kg stage 3 bumpers

---- stage 1 ---- 61kg, 6hp
- 10kg exhaust
- 15kg spare wheel
- 7kg top
- 6kg airbox/blower
- 8kg spacers
- 4kg wheels
- 3kg laveglace
- 8kg modern fan (2x old fan)

---- stage 2 ---- 20kg, 2hp

- 10kg 12V light battery (150e)
- 5kg Engine lid
- 5kg trunk lid (fiberglass)

And Im not even talking about the 4kg + 8kg, total of 12kg saved on the non sprung weight on the wheel.
This will have a massive effect on car behaviour.

I dont plan to take out the bumpers because I like them a lot actually...
but I might take them out for trackday, I will check was is their weight because I plan to only take out the bumpers and not the whole mechanism etc...

I think for more weight reduction gonna have to be lighter alternator, lighter starter...
Fiberglass... going to become very pricy... 800-820kg seems to be the limit with this expensive stage 4

 

[Alain - The Red Scorpion]

This is my weight accounting related to hp
everytime you lose 10kg, you win 1hp, so to speak...

920kg 85hp
859kg stage 1
839kg stage 2
819kg stage 3 bumpers

---- stage 1 ---- 61kg, 6hp
- 10kg exhaust
- 15kg spare wheel
- 7kg top
- 6kg airbox/blower
- 8kg spacers
- 4kg wheels
- 3kg laveglace
- 8kg modern fan (2x old fan)

---- stage 2 ---- 20kg, 2hp

- 10kg 12V light battery (150e)
- 5kg Engine lid
- 5kg trunk lid (fiberglass)

And Im not even talking about the 4kg + 8kg, total of 12kg saved on the non sprung weight on the wheel.
This will have a massive effect on car behaviour.

I dont plan to take out the bumpers because I like them a lot actually...
but I might take them out for trackday, I will check was is their weight because I plan to only take out the bumpers and not the whole mechanism etc...

I think for more weight reduction gonna have to be lighter alternator, lighter starter...
Fiberglass... going to become very pricy... 800-820kg seems to be the limit with this expensive stage 4

Very similar to my results. I am down to 870 kg. In standard form at 970 kg and standard 1500 engine, acceleration in 4th gear from 3000 to 5000 rpm was 19 sec. With upgraded engine (performance cyl. head from MWB, 100 HP), and weight down to 870 kg, 3000 to 5000 rpm is now 14.5 sec. More to come when I find a way to replace the humongously heavy front trunk cover. Mind you, it can all be easily returned to stock.

 

[Chromaphase]

Very similar to my results. I am down to 870 kg. In standard form at 970 kg and standard 1500 engine, acceleration in 4th gear from 3000 to 5000 rpm was 19 sec. With upgraded engine (performance cyl. head from MWB, 100 HP), and weight down to 870 kg, 3000 to 5000 rpm is now 14.5 sec. More to come when I find a way to replace the humongously heavy front trunk cover. Mind you, it can all be easily returned to stock.

Yes exactly like mine, its true that both front lid and trunk lied are heavy, especially the front lid is kind of dangerously heavy.
Seems I cannot find a proper fiber glass replacement ? One with attach point where we can screw the braquets in place ?

Same for the trunk lid, only found fiberglass one all flat, no reinforced point for braquets

 

[Alain - The Red Scorpion]

Yes exactly like mine, its true that both front lid and trunk lied are heavy, especially the front lid is kind of dangerously heavy.
Seems I cannot find a proper fiber glass replacement ? One with attach point where we can screw the braquets in place ?

Same for the trunk lid, only found fiberglass one all flat, no reinforced point for braquets

MBW used to have the front lid in fiberglass but not now. They are available in Europe but shipping of such a bulky item is prohibitive. I fabricated a rear one-piece lid in aluminium, replacing both engine cover and rear trunk cover. 4.5 kg (10 lb) instead of 16 kg (35 lb) for both lids. Can I do the same in front? Intend to try

.