Let's Print some X1/9 parts!

jvandyke said:
I tried 4 times to print off some knobs last night and gave up. Stuff keeps pulling off the printer bed after a little and then it's a mess. I should probably try some other sticking method besides glue stick. Hairspray I've read.
Click to expand...
I am still learning as well and bed adhesion is a challenge especially with small footprints.

I keep hearing the same... Bed leveling, nozzle height, nozzle temp and bed temp are key.

I have a glass bed and am getting better. I've been running bare glass with a 75 degree bed temp and my PLA sticks pretty well lately.

I will try to print a heater knob tomorrow.
 
jvandyke said:
I tried 4 times to print off some knobs last night and gave up. Stuff keeps pulling off the printer bed after a little and then it's a mess. I should probably try some other sticking method besides glue stick. Hairspray I've read.
Click to expand...
Yikes. I had trouble with those knobs too. The base surface is so small and they are tall. Eventually work loose about 2/3 of the way through the print. Will need a very strong bond at the bottom and will keep trying...

Made some proto blanking plates. Came out well. Next rev will have hollow center and retaining fingers on the ends to keep it in place.

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geekdaddy said:
I am still learning as well and bed adhesion is a challenge especially with small footprints.

I keep hearing the same... Bed leveling, nozzle height, nozzle temp and bed temp are key.

I have a glass bed and am getting better. I've been running bare glass with a 75 degree bed temp and my PLA sticks pretty well lately.

I will try to print a heater knob tomorrow.
Click to expand...
 
:thumbsup:

I didn't have such issues when I first printed off those knobs, now I am.
I'm doing ABS, heated glass (90 and tried 95) 220 nozzle temp. I remember doing a couple knobs and letting it do support material which helped but then it filled the interior with scaffolding and that won't work!

Blanking plate looking good. I was thinking of the ones on the shifter base, where power window switches would be. Will have to try some of those too.
Are you letting it print a "bed"? if you don't then maybe you'll get a smoother surface on the face (assuming you're printing it "upside down")
 
Questions for Jeff

Jeff,

What kind of file/files does your unit work with? .STL was the format for the industrial units many years ago. Is it still? And what type of materials can it build with?

Cesare.
 
Coupefan said:
Jeff,

What kind of file/files does your unit work with? .STL was the format for the industrial units many years ago. Is it still? And what type of materials can it build with?

Cesare.
Click to expand...
The printer was originally locked down to proprietary filament (ABS) and software and would do .stl. I jailbroke it so I am running Repetier-host and any filament (brand) I want. I have not tried PLA, I don't know for sure if I can convince the nozzle to go to the right temp for PLA but maybe. I do need to recalibrate the bed a bit.
 
I am using an open source RepRap design and presently printing with PLA. I generate (or borrow) stl files and then run them through Cura to create the slicer or gcode settings. I print on heated glass and presently use a nozzle temp of 195 (pla is lower vs abs) and a bed temp of 75. Not using a raft. Still tweaking my extruder rate and other parameters to improve quality.
 
This my best effort on the heater knobs. Could probably clean them up well with a dremel. Not perfect but not too bad either. I had to build a raft on the bottom to keep it secure while printing the top portion. Me thinks it might be better to redesign the knob portion and keep it flat so this could be printed upside down. Better yet make it flat with a round inset for a tritium vial. It would be easier to print in good quality and would look pretty cool as well.
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I usually print them upside down.
Did you see if it actually fits? I found them to be a bit loose yet.
 
jvandyke said:
I usually print them upside down.
Did you see if it actually fits? I found them to be a bit loose yet.
Click to expand...
Not yet. Too cold outside and I don't want to break my existing knobs taking them off. They're stubborn little buggers.
 
Greg... looks great! Knowing nothing about the...

process... why could these not be printed on one SIDE or the other. That way the tray could be trimmed off the top of the side of the knob without disturbing critical portions like the clip or the grooves.

Also, cannot the cad drawing be massaged a bit to tighten up clearances?

Lastly... a quick coat of Duplicolor Trim Black or Vinyl and Fabric spray in flat black would make the color perfect.

Lastly again... I use a small Xacto knife to gently spread the tangs as I pull the knobs off, alternating above and below. I image a thin piano-wire tool cold be bent up and made also into a tool.

Keep up the good work... hope yur warm and OK!
 
Got it, thanks. Henk has a lot of stuff I want. He has stuff you cannot normally find in great shape. Wished he was a little closer.
V/r, Mike
 
Update...

So I've tweaked my console blank design a bit. I'm not very good (yet) with CAD SW but made adjustments so it will "click" into place and now has a thin/flat surface which can be cut or redesigned to accommodate switches.

I also made an interesting discovery. If I print the blank with clear PLA it becomes a "frosted" lens of sorts which could be backlit. Or I could possibly mask/expose a clear window and paint the remaining surface area with black. Put an injket printed logo on the clear window and could enable symbols, logos, etc. Anyhow -- lots of potential here I think. For those of you with the newer console with smaller blanks, someone could likely design printed/backlit blanks for it as well :)

I've got to tweak the speaker grills and will then try covering them in fabric or possibly lay-down a printed mesh on-top. And then will work on my high-mounted stoplight to mount on the interior. Good stuff!
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Also here's a trial fit of the latest speaker grill frame. Works well as-is but I'm going to make it slightly more structurally rigid and then have to decide if I will cover in acoustical fabric or print the frame with a perforated plastic mesh on top. Assume the fabric would look nicer and be more sound transparent but the plastic mesh would make the frame stronger and would be less work (since not necessary to glue the fabric)...
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Good stuff.
You could put an array of LEDs behind that blank and it could become a decent "map" light or something
 
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