AC Condensor

Revised upper tensioner. washer on the short coach bolt fits inside the engine lift hook to center the tensioner.

IMG_1337.jpg


battery cable insulator, also from Volvo V70

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Have you tried putting a mechanical temp gauge in the motor to be sure your isnt inaccurate? You can use an infared temp gun, but ive noticed depending on where u check you can get all kindsa readings...i wonder if posible voltage drops or more likely floating grounds, outa calibration 25 year old temp gauge may be more to blame? Im not saying it isnt running got, I just wonder if its really as hot as you think it is. If i ever suspect something like what your going through, id want verification from a mechanical gauge.
 
Remember, this is an AC on issue. The radiant heat off the condensor is what is causing the raised engine temps at idle.

I have used a laser temp probe to check I/O temps at the t/stat & cyl head - that was how I determined some time ago that the temp gauge was inaccurate. I replaced that gauge with another, that still indicates a hair over what I measure at the engine. Normal operation indicates a hair over 190 at the gauge, when I measure temps in the 180's at the t/stat outlet (Stant 45378 t/stat)

I added a mechanical gauge in the head port, and moved the gauge sender to the (modified) T/stat housing some time ago.

Regardless of specific accuracy of either gauge, it is clear that there is a significant increase in engine temps (oil pressure drops, idle & run quality changes, etc) at low rpm with the AC running. At this point, I'm determined to stick with it until I find a solution that is as automated as possible.
 
what about relocating the condenser completely. Laforza (itialian built suv with a ford truck power train) used a condensor mounted to the side of the radiator, a small square thing. mounted at an angle to pick up air when ur driving, but no where near the radiator....i dunno where youd put it in a fiat, but that may be an option to look into, relocation...and an aftermarket condensor. Aluminum will dissipate the heat better than the copper, tho i know lots of people here dont like aluminum...i think at this point relocation is a viable consideration.

Something like this

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ai...te-condenser-w-fan-and-aluminum-shroud-33.php

Then the question is where the hell do you put it.

Mark
 
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How about an external oil cooler? They can certainly reduce the overall temperature of the system. One could put it next to the left intake with a fan possibly or horizontally under the engine cover with a pusher fan to get the air out of the compartment.

Karl
 
Mark, I just built an oversize condensor that works, m not moving it or replacing it with a substandard alminum unit.
 
I've been working on this, I have a Volvo oil cooler setup that I just have to take the time to sort out. Not sure I would place it on the left side though.
 
I was only suggesting because of the increase in engine temps from the heat coming off the condensor, an oil cooler is not a bad idea tho.
 
TonyK said:
Additional cooling development.


TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
Click to expand...

Tony, where did you splice into the heater circuit without interfering with the existing core? I think this will be more practical approach for me than a dual rad setup.
 
TEE

The TEE in the picture is one of Two that were used. The connection was made in the heater circuit just above the water pump at the right side of the head and on the suction line heater hose on the left side of the engine. ( Hence the 2, 5/8" copper lines attached to the tunnel under the car) I will caution you that in extreme cases, 100 degree heat, stuck in traffic and no wind it is possible to max out your cooling and you will have to open the windows and turn on the cabin heat to lower engine temperatures. Also you do not have or I did not have thermostatic control over this installation. Possibly a heater valve with hand control is an option to overcome this issue.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
 
I understand. The two tees allow each circuit to operate in parallel without interfering with each other, that's the part I was missing. I already have a vacuum controlled heater valve in the suction hose close to the water manifold fitting.

9htrValve.jpg


If I do this, I will add another to govern the flow to the auxiliary core - I just need to make a schematic showing the coolant path & valve control before I do any actual work, so that I can visualize the whole setup.
 
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Looks like...

You have grasped the concept.

I would still use copper 5/8" tube along the bottom of the car as it too sheds heat. It also stays straight under the car body.

Keep us posted with your progress.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
Do you have any concerns about work hardening of the copper due to vibration and flexure? I know this is a significant issue with certain grades of aluminum and copper.
 
Well...

I had the installation working on the car for about 5 years and the tubes stayed on the car for another 20 or so. Currently 1 of the removed tubes is used in the coolant pipe box under the car to feed the heater circuit when I removed the pan and installed new coolant lines.

So, I am going to say no, no concerns, but that old pipe could fail tomorrow. Will wait and see.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
Sounds like it is unlikely to be a problem. Thank you for offering what your experience has been, learning about the reality of a situation is very helpful for others.

Karl
 
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