Help: Fuel pump fuse location?

X

Xhaust

Al - 83
This is probably X mechanics 101, but can anyone tell me the location of the inline fuel pump fuse (83, fuel injection)?

Just replaced timing belt, so of course now the car won't start. But I don't hear the electric fuel pump running; must have forgotten something somewhere, but can't figure out what. So, starting with the lack of fuel pump noise. Thanks!
 
I took a look through the various manuals and wiring diagrams I have on hand and couldn't find an in-line fuse just for the pump. There is one for the FI system as a whole, though. That's located in/near the fuse box. If you drop it down, take a look in the upper right hand corner (towards the front of the car) you should see a rather large brown in-line fuse holder. That's the one. BUT, I doubt that's really the problem.

Something to check first would be the operation of the pump itself. Fairly quick and simple check. The pump won't run unless the engine is drawing air past the Air Flow Meter (AFM) causing it to open. The way to check it is to disconnect the intake hose from the air filter to the AFM. Then, with the key on, gently put your finger inside the AFM to open the flap (it's right there at the opening, no need to jam your whole hand in there!) and listen for the fuel pump. It should come right on.

Pics are always a huge help, and knowing you're new to the X (nothing wrong with that - I remember my first carb rebuild!) so here's a pic of my AFM with the intake hose removed. You'll probably also notice (along with all the rust and cobwebs :eek:) that my air filter canister is also missing...

dkm16288a.jpg


Let us know what happens!
 
Wow, cool trick! Indeed the fuse was fine. And yep, pump turns right on with the flapper pressed. So, does that mean I botched the belt timing? Fortunately, I haven't heard any massive clunking of metal yet, but there are slight hints of the engine trying to fire, so I'm assuming the ignition system is ok(?). I'm going to verify the belt, again, but any other hints? Thanks....
 
could the cam/crank timing be so far off it can't make compression, therefore can't suck in air, therefore can't pull the flap open and trigger the pump?
 
verified the belt timing; it's dead on, to the tooth. Must have missed something somewhere...ran/started fine prior to its operation. :sad:
 
I always throw this out there

This has burned me at least twice when I was doing simple stuff and could not imagine why the damn thing would not restart. . Check the wire that runs from the coil to the dizzy and injectors. It is easy to knock off as it has a spade connector and not a lot of slack in the wire. Also, it has a piggyback connection so just looking in the area you don't see a "disconnected" wire since the piggyback is in the middle of the wire run.

With this wire disconnected, the engine will crank forever and never catch.

Hooks up here on the coil:


Piggyback in'da middle:


Should look like this when properly connected:


Just my guess. Good luck!
 
Great suggestion; wiring looks fine, plus verified good spark to the plugs, so I'm hoping I forgot something obviously, like, um, well...I'll keep looking. thanks again!
 
Well, wish I could be reporting a solution, but no such luck. Eliminated all the obvious, so, seems no other choice but to switch to fuel injection diagnostic mode. Will report back whenever the problem is finally isolated. Thanks again to all!
 
Ignition timing

verified the belt timing; it's dead on, to the tooth.
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Have you verified the ignition timing? The distributor is driven by the aux shaft, and it is very hard not to move the aux shaft when replacing the timing belt.
 
True... very easy to nudge the aux shaft

Line up the crank and cam marks. Then take off the dizzy cap and see if it is point at #4 contact. I had this issue last time I did the tbelt on my 86. It is way to easy to move that aux shaft when the belt is off. Lesson learned on my part.
 
OH, that is almost certainly it! It got the cam/crank marks on, but I'm pretty sure that aux shaft got jerked around...wow, I'll give that a shot! Whoohoo! On the plus side, I do know a lot know about how to diagnose the FI (I was up to step 8) :)
 
In addition to the above, it is easy to have the ignition timing 180* out. The car will turn over, will pop and spit, but not run. Take dist cap off and rotate 180* and pop back on....
 
Hello Folks; that was indeed the problem; seems obvious now in hindsight, but standing out there with the temp in the low 20s, my brain was certainly too frozen to think it all the way through. I'm happy to report that the 83' is now running again!! I've now finished all the inspection items and will be heading to the DMV (er, MVA) for its license and tags later this week. I might even upgrade it from barn to garage status! Many thanks for all the help!! I'd likely would have had the FI completely and hopelessly disassembled by now otherwise. Log entry: "upon changing timing belt, do not forget to check ignition timing!"

Thanks again, Al.
 
Excellent

20 degrees? You havin' a heat wave over there? :)

Congrats on getting her going again.
 
Congrats Al... CAM timing and IGNITION timing...

... can be confusing little buggers on this car... but once you've done it... you'll NOT forget it.

I guess its just kinda like childbirth... seems like everyone hasta go though the pain, once!
 
Alain - The Red Scorpion said:
Location of the in-line fuse for the fuel injection pump on a 1980? Please.
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kmead said:
There isn’t one.
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I dunno about that Karl. I do indeed think there is one !!!

As I recall.... it is in a really dumb location...I think buried in the harness above the fuse box in an inline fuse holder. You might have to drop the fuse box a bit to even see it. i think there are 2 or 3 inline fuse holders in that area. And i think maybe the fuel pump one is a 16 amp fuse in a green ( ? ) plastic in-line holder. Wires are maybe white with green stripe or maybe white with brown stripe.
 
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