Ananda
True Classic
Thanks!
Hello xwebs
- Thread starter Ananda
- Start date
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Hey Ovi... good to hear from you! nt
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Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Coupla things you may wanna consider...
Replace the plastic coolant tank with the stainless steel one that came with the car.
Good...
Driver side window rolls up too far, so replacing whatever limiter keeps it up to the right height, or replacing power windows with hand cranks.
I'm assuming you have electrics then... There should be a hand crank and an access hole so if the electric motor fails, you can crank it up and down. You'll need to pull the door panel and most likely break many more clips. You can find them online and through our vendors but at least one of us here used a commercial grade Velcro and said it worked great.
Repair the weather stripping on the left driver side where it leaks in the rain which I found out the hard way in this niño weather.
Even with NEW weather stripping they tend to leak... Many options here with aftermarket weather stripping.
Figure out if and where it's leaking oil.
Well... the best way is to clean up the engine and trans with a high pressure wash and them powder its bottom. Literally. Baby powder will cling and expose where the leaks are coming from.
Replace a few of the clips on the interior door panel.
See above...
Install the rear window brake light.
Well... Most 3rd Brake Lights mounted inside the rear window OBSCURES your rearward vision. Find a spoiler you like with one or another place to mount it. You'll kick yourself for mounting where the factory did. Obviously the guy that thought that up never drove the car. Installing some brighter LED Running and Stop Lights will help also. Directionals will require another blinker switch, but no biggie.
HTH.... Send Photos or else!
Replace the plastic coolant tank with the stainless steel one that came with the car.
Good...
Driver side window rolls up too far, so replacing whatever limiter keeps it up to the right height, or replacing power windows with hand cranks.
I'm assuming you have electrics then... There should be a hand crank and an access hole so if the electric motor fails, you can crank it up and down. You'll need to pull the door panel and most likely break many more clips. You can find them online and through our vendors but at least one of us here used a commercial grade Velcro and said it worked great.
Repair the weather stripping on the left driver side where it leaks in the rain which I found out the hard way in this niño weather.
Even with NEW weather stripping they tend to leak... Many options here with aftermarket weather stripping.
Figure out if and where it's leaking oil.
Well... the best way is to clean up the engine and trans with a high pressure wash and them powder its bottom. Literally. Baby powder will cling and expose where the leaks are coming from.
Replace a few of the clips on the interior door panel.
See above...
Install the rear window brake light.
Well... Most 3rd Brake Lights mounted inside the rear window OBSCURES your rearward vision. Find a spoiler you like with one or another place to mount it. You'll kick yourself for mounting where the factory did. Obviously the guy that thought that up never drove the car. Installing some brighter LED Running and Stop Lights will help also. Directionals will require another blinker switch, but no biggie.
HTH.... Send Photos or else!
Ananda
True Classic
Throwing out a quick question about jacking the car up after perusing some other threads. My floor Jack isn't low enough to get under the rear center jack point which hangs down quite low. Any ideas? was thinking about using the car jack on the rear side point to get it high enough to slide the floor jack under the center point.
Common problem with these low cars
I had the same problem. When I got my 78 back in 2003 all I had was my trusty 1970s vintage Sears floor jack. It had a pretty high cradle which was never an issue with any of my US made cars, trucks or vans. It didn't work for my stock height 78. It wouldn't even clear the bottom of the side jack tube without me lifting up on the rear wheel well to get that extra 1/8" it needed.
I suggest you find a 20% off HF coupon and head over there for a low profile jack. I go the smallest one, but I think they have a large low profile. I do run out of lift range with the small one, but not too often.
I had the same problem. When I got my 78 back in 2003 all I had was my trusty 1970s vintage Sears floor jack. It had a pretty high cradle which was never an issue with any of my US made cars, trucks or vans. It didn't work for my stock height 78. It wouldn't even clear the bottom of the side jack tube without me lifting up on the rear wheel well to get that extra 1/8" it needed.
I suggest you find a 20% off HF coupon and head over there for a low profile jack. I go the smallest one, but I think they have a large low profile. I do run out of lift range with the small one, but not too often.
sdlsaginaw
Steven Lawson
I have the same jack, it's awesome. Super light compared to the steel beasts.
It even easily slips under Il Mela Verde which has coilovers and is really low.
It even easily slips under Il Mela Verde which has coilovers and is really low.
Ananda
True Classic
That would be great, I guess at some point I get to visit the famous HF I have heard so much about, thanks.
So other than seeing thick gobs of black goo coating what I think is the case that encloses the transmission and differential? not sure the right word to use, I see axles coming from it. But I also see a tear in one of the rubber boots that go into it. Is it a u-joint?
So other than seeing thick gobs of black goo coating what I think is the case that encloses the transmission and differential? not sure the right word to use, I see axles coming from it. But I also see a tear in one of the rubber boots that go into it. Is it a u-joint?
CV joint
Those are CV joints under the boots. The black goo could be the grease for the joints exiting via the torn boot. Put the boot on your list of things to replace. The tear lets the grease out and dirt and moisture in, which is bad.
Those are CV joints under the boots. The black goo could be the grease for the joints exiting via the torn boot. Put the boot on your list of things to replace. The tear lets the grease out and dirt and moisture in, which is bad.
Very light in comparison
When a family member calls me with a flat or other roadside issue, I take that little jack with me. Its way more effective than any car jack. Of course, if I am not in the mood to help, I ask them why they called me instead of AAA.
When a family member calls me with a flat or other roadside issue, I take that little jack with me. Its way more effective than any car jack. Of course, if I am not in the mood to help, I ask them why they called me instead of AAA.
two CVs per axle on a 5 speed
The 5 speed has inner and outer CVs on both axles. Here is the manual page.
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/e/e8/WrokshopManual_32.pdf
A 4 speed has outer CVs and an inner tripode joints on both axles.
The 5 speed has inner and outer CVs on both axles. Here is the manual page.
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/e/e8/WrokshopManual_32.pdf
A 4 speed has outer CVs and an inner tripode joints on both axles.
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Well, it will certainly depend on condition
It will also depend on how you feel about doing the job twice if you are wrong on the condition. At the minimum you will need to clean out the remaining grease and repack with fresh grease.
IIRC correctly, a properly functioning joint will only have a little play in the horizontal plane.
It will also depend on how you feel about doing the job twice if you are wrong on the condition.
At the minimum you will need to clean out the remaining grease and repack with fresh grease.IIRC correctly, a properly functioning joint will only have a little play in the horizontal plane.
jvandyke
True Classic
My jack doesn't quite make it under the rear jack point either but I've found I can shove my shoulder against the remains of the bumper shock mount (de-bumpered mine) and push the car up a bit, unloading the suspension a tad and it slips in. Still waiting for an opportunity to pick up my lift from the warehouse!
Open the door
Just a heads up. When using the stock jack in the jack tube, it is wise to open the door before sticking the jack in the tube. With the door closed the jack frame can rub into the door skin when you let the car down. Then you end up with a shallow dent running up the door. Been there, done that.
Just a heads up. When using the stock jack in the jack tube, it is wise to open the door before sticking the jack in the tube. With the door closed the jack frame can rub into the door skin when you let the car down. Then you end up with a shallow dent running up the door. Been there, done that.