lookforjoe
True Classic
Thanks, Mark. I did check the intake manifold fitment over the runners before torquing the header/runners, it's all good.
There is at least a finger width between the runner & the low side hose, I checked.
Head & Cam work...
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
Thanks, Mark. I did check the intake manifold fitment over the runners before torquing the header/runners, it's all good.
There is at least a finger width between the runner & the low side hose, I checked.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Closer to an inch - I was able to insert my index finger mid joint in the space - with the ceramic coat, I doubt it'll be an issue.
lookforjoe
True Classic
pic of the AC hose to header space...
PUt the intake back on today & fired her up :grin:
VERY loud with only the open header. Had to futz with the timing & idle to get it to stay running - it's just shy of 1k rpm & approx 12ºBTDC, with one tooth cam advance. I have to adjust idle using the butterfly stop, the bypass is no more, due to the enlarged throttle plate.
I drilled & tapped a couple of extra 1/8" NPT vacuum ports on the DS end of the manifold, one I use for the heater valve controller.
I ground off all the casting lines & the fill plugs (had to braise what was left of the plug in place, or they would have fallen in/out)
Hopefully tomorrow I can start putting the exhaust on, then I can think about getting the AFM adjusted
PUt the intake back on today & fired her up :grin:
VERY loud with only the open header. Had to futz with the timing & idle to get it to stay running - it's just shy of 1k rpm & approx 12ºBTDC, with one tooth cam advance. I have to adjust idle using the butterfly stop, the bypass is no more, due to the enlarged throttle plate.
I drilled & tapped a couple of extra 1/8" NPT vacuum ports on the DS end of the manifold, one I use for the heater valve controller.
I ground off all the casting lines & the fill plugs (had to braise what was left of the plug in place, or they would have fallen in/out)
Hopefully tomorrow I can start putting the exhaust on, then I can think about getting the AFM adjusted
lookforjoe
True Classic
lookforjoe
True Classic
Spent hours doing the exhaust...
..not sure why it took so long to get it right, but it did!
Didn't take any photos while I was working, this is the layout.
fits behind the stock panels. I cut out the left side to match the right opening. I'll take some pics later. Much louder under load than stock, quiet at idle though. Don't have the trans mount support brace in the equation, I may yet add that back to brace the muffler, however it feels very rigid as it is. The rubber hangers I used have less give than the stock spring hangers, not sure that's a good thing - don't want to stress the header!
Started by setting the CO with the AFM adjuster - got the O2 voltage to sweep .2-8v, but it feels way to lean off idle, no pull at all over 5K.
So, I popped the lid on the AFM & loosed it 4 clicks. Made sure timing was 12ºBTDC * 850/900rpm (doesn't like running * the stock 10º), then moved the idle back to 1K where it feels better.
Used the CO adjust to tweak the setting. Feels like it's on the rich side * idle - voltage * O2 sensor stays right around .5V, but car pulls much better on the road. May try another click or two. Wish I had a wideband to verify AFR's over the range, but I'm not going that route with the X (so much for that decision
.
..not sure why it took so long to get it right, but it did!
Didn't take any photos while I was working, this is the layout.
fits behind the stock panels. I cut out the left side to match the right opening. I'll take some pics later. Much louder under load than stock, quiet at idle though. Don't have the trans mount support brace in the equation, I may yet add that back to brace the muffler, however it feels very rigid as it is. The rubber hangers I used have less give than the stock spring hangers, not sure that's a good thing - don't want to stress the header!
Started by setting the CO with the AFM adjuster - got the O2 voltage to sweep .2-8v, but it feels way to lean off idle, no pull at all over 5K.
So, I popped the lid on the AFM & loosed it 4 clicks. Made sure timing was 12ºBTDC * 850/900rpm (doesn't like running * the stock 10º), then moved the idle back to 1K where it feels better.
Used the CO adjust to tweak the setting. Feels like it's on the rich side * idle - voltage * O2 sensor stays right around .5V, but car pulls much better on the road. May try another click or two. Wish I had a wideband to verify AFR's over the range, but I'm not going that route with the X (so much for that decision
.
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catterar
Bob Cattera
Seal dimensions
Took a copy of the above post to our local Car Quest Auto Parts store. It took the poor counter guy over an hour of searching different o-rings to find the appropriate one. What he came up with was a Four Season part number CTC 407017. That is an R134a seal. Hope that may make it easier for anyone else who is looking for this part.
Thanks
Took a copy of the above post to our local Car Quest Auto Parts store. It took the poor counter guy over an hour of searching different o-rings to find the appropriate one. What he came up with was a Four Season part number CTC 407017. That is an R134a seal. Hope that may make it easier for anyone else who is looking for this part.
Thanks
lookforjoe
True Classic
posted the pics
.. in my original Exhaust thread...
finished shot
Moved the AFM wheel up 1 click today - it seems to have settled in somewhat - the O2 was ranging from 3-7v today when I checked it - better than the static .5v I had yesterday. I used the CO adjust to bring the voltage down a tad at idle, does still feel a bit rich at idle, but good when checked at 2500rpm.
.. in my original Exhaust thread...
finished shot
Moved the AFM wheel up 1 click today - it seems to have settled in somewhat - the O2 was ranging from 3-7v today when I checked it - better than the static .5v I had yesterday. I used the CO adjust to bring the voltage down a tad at idle, does still feel a bit rich at idle, but good when checked at 2500rpm.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Head gasket was from Bayless, so whatever they sell as standard 14 bolt gasket...
lookforjoe
True Classic
Wow! An hour? And you were waiting the whole time? Dang!
Anyway, good to know others will have a alternate # if they need it!
lookforjoe
True Classic
After some discussion....
... I moved the cam timing back one tooth to the stock notch. Less "lopey" at idle, more pull up top. Set AFM another click CC (7 clicks total). O2 voltage in the .6v range. Doing the push in on flap test at 2500rpm, rpm still drops off - so I'm going to assume it's still on the lean side. Tried to use the CO adjust to compensate for the rich idle, but not much success with that. I'll settle for slightly rich idle, if I can get the right mix under load though.
I'm thinking of pulling a plug to check condition, since I have no way of checking AFR's.
Have to play with it some more tomorrow.
... I moved the cam timing back one tooth to the stock notch. Less "lopey" at idle, more pull up top. Set AFM another click CC (7 clicks total). O2 voltage in the .6v range. Doing the push in on flap test at 2500rpm, rpm still drops off - so I'm going to assume it's still on the lean side. Tried to use the CO adjust to compensate for the rich idle, but not much success with that. I'll settle for slightly rich idle, if I can get the right mix under load though.
I'm thinking of pulling a plug to check condition, since I have no way of checking AFR's.
Have to play with it some more tomorrow.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Installed a 3bar FPR, and moved the AFM back to stock setting. Feels good overall. However, I have no way of knowing what the AFR's actually are, and I have no sooting at all on the new exhaust, so it may well be leaner than optimal, even though pushing in on the flap seems to indicate it's already rich..
...so, I broke down & ordered an AEM wideband meter, same as I have in my Wagon.
Probably going to install it in a two-gauge pod in the open recess of the center console, unless anyone has anyone has any brilliant ideas on placement...
At least this way I'll be able to better tune within the constraints of the stock system.
This does mean I'll have to fix/modify the low side AC pipe, as I will need to use the header O2 bung for this sensor.
...so, I broke down & ordered an AEM wideband meter, same as I have in my Wagon.
Probably going to install it in a two-gauge pod in the open recess of the center console, unless anyone has anyone has any brilliant ideas on placement...
At least this way I'll be able to better tune within the constraints of the stock system.
This does mean I'll have to fix/modify the low side AC pipe, as I will need to use the header O2 bung for this sensor.
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Hussein... I EXPECT nothing less than a...
... HEADS UP DISPLAY on the windshield from you...
HA!
I'm sure there has got to be a Volvo out there somewhere you can steal the setup from!
... HEADS UP DISPLAY on the windshield from you...
HA!
I'm sure there has got to be a Volvo out there somewhere you can steal the setup from!
lookforjoe
True Classic
Installed the AEM wideband today...
bent the high side AC line to clear the sensor
sensor socket
harness routed...
... through wheel arch & behind insulation
run behind carpet, & into center console
Now I need to make some changes to the tune...
bent the high side AC line to clear the sensor
sensor socket
harness routed...
... through wheel arch & behind insulation
run behind carpet, & into center console
Now I need to make some changes to the tune...