Dallara k20 build

Ive never understood the purpose of the side vents I fiberglassed them too. It looks a lot cleaner without them.

Definitely like the original dallara front but headlights that low just aren't practical.
 
sub-zeroil said:
i think i have 500+- hr into it when i started i had gaps all over , foam will help alot , make sure the car is lavel on all 4 wheels in the air it helps too , and panal bonding will help you too and will not crack like the bondo !
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What did you use for the headlamp surrounds that are integrated into the nose?

EDIT: I'm going to copy this to my Dallara thread to keep Maxmod's thread from going further off topic - if you can respond over there that would be great :)
 
10 years in the making and we have primer!






It's been an interesting weekend I've never sprayed 2K before. In ways it was easy in others nearly impossible. Thankfully the shape is pretty close to what It should be.
 
OK, OK, I got it... Lets POP MOLDS off this entire car!

An entire Front Clip from the door forward and a Rear Clip from the door opening back.

Give me your PayPal address and I'll send a $100 bucks (American) to ya to start.

Anyone else?

Anyone?
 
In America I'm not sure to be honest I believe you have to spray waterbased which I don't think you can do out of a booth. We can still purchase 2k so that's what this is. Nice an easy to spray
 
Haha I think everyone who's finished one has that idea. The thought of damaging you work though is horrifying.
 
RSP manifold installed with no firewall cuts.

Hey here are the photos it can definitely be done. If you really want to you could have custom velocity stacks made the same length with a turn down in them. Personally I'll just be angling them. This has given me plenty of room to position the throttle body away from the fuel tank as well.

The gap is only around 10mm but I think I can remove a further 5-10mm of meat I just did a rough cut to get it to fit first.






 
Could a few millimeters be milled off the face where the manifold meets the head? Or am I chasing a diminishing return :) ?

Looking good.
 
I see no reason why it couldn't if you milled it smart you could change the angle of the manifold as well. Gain more clearance through changing the angle than you would shaving it.

Just thinking about it I may need to give that some more thought and do some math calculations and see how much I could gain through changing the angle. Maybe just maybe there's enough in that to not have to modify the velocity stacks.
 
Issue 1 with k20 install on a RHD car

It looks like there must be a difference in a lhd and RHD tunnel which surprises me that there would be.

My throttle cable tunnel is on my passenger side I'm guessing a LHD cars is also on the passenger side or opposite side to mine.




You can see the side to side lever fouls the throttle cable area.

I've got a couple of ideas on how to resolve this just not really looking forward to any of them.

I'm trying to work out what the easiest solution is obviously with moving the shifter 10-15mm outside the tunnel area not being one of them. I really want to be able to use the standard centre console and stuff.
 
Maxmod said:
Issue 1 with k20 install on a RHD car

It looks like there must be a difference in a lhd and RHD tunnel which surprises me that there would be.

My throttle cable tunnel is on my passenger side I'm guessing a LHD cars is also on the passenger side or opposite side to mine.




You can see the side to side lever fouls the throttle cable area.

I've got a couple of ideas on how to resolve this just not really looking forward to any of them.

I'm trying to work out what the easiest solution is obviously with moving the shifter 10-15mm outside the tunnel area not being one of them. I really want to be able to use the standard centre console and stuff.
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LHD is same. Have fun.
 
modification necessary

I think it is typical that it doesn't quite fit - you'll want to move the entire cable tube closer to the left hand side (passenger side in your case). You need to modify the throttle tube anyways per the MWB kit instructions:
Like the clutch, the X19 accelerator pedal geometry has more travel than is required by the Acura throttle body, and if left as stock, will provide a throttle that is overly responsive, resulting in an “on/off” sensation when trying to maintain steady state. The stock X19 accelerator pedal arm should be cut and shortened, or the cable stud lowered by about 1”, for a smoother and more natural feel.
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I know Tim wrote about this previously.
 
I lowered my throttle cable almost to the floor for almost the entire length of the tunnel. I can't remember if I cut off the brackets holding the throttle cable or if I just bent them. I believe I bent a couple but had to cut the one farthest forward. I relocated the throttle cable as low as I could in the tunnel and made a new bracket to hold the throttle cable down. I did this over the entire length of the tunnel so there were no sharp bends in the throttle cable. This has been working for the last year with no issues. I did cut the the accelerator arm as suggested by Matt at Midwest-Bayless.
 
dallara kit

the one I had (original?) there was no nose piece to fit. just the lower spoiler where it met the fenders with the cut outs for the square headlights.
mikemo
 
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