Craigslist San Diego - must sell fast.

Greg (in Conn)

Bertone curator - X driver
Not mine.
 
Ugh, legacy seller will make this hard to deal with. We all appreciate the seller's feelings towards his dad's car but that carries no actual monetary value to it. It looks like a fun X to restore but if I showed the seller a picture of my current X he would probably refuse to sell it to me!

What are we looking at, a $1,500 project or am I out of touch of current X project values?
 
Carl, you might think you are a cheapskate, but to me that is a 500$ car. If you bought it for 500 you could ship it home for 1,000$ and hit your 1500 price goal. Crazy ass switches, fubar left side, messy interior... I understanding him wanting to sell it to someone to restore it and not scrap it, and it looks restorable, but there are unkowns - and to most people not named Carl, that car needs an expensive paint job. Of course, Carl will paint it with rustoleum and it will look better than manty professionally priced paint jobs!
 
@fiatrn - I often call myself a jaded Californian, especially when it comes to pricing "classic" cars like this. At best, it's a $100 car. It hasn't been registered since 2012 and with the lack of pictures, there's far too many unknowns. The legacy aspect... sorry but see the jaded part at the beginning of this paragraph.

There's visible rust in the photos, there's the switches that were added, a claim the car used to run, but hasn't been started for some months - I'd be willing to bet, years. $700 -$1000 for the shipping and you're not even at $1500 yet.
 
Hi All,

I am local to this and going to view the vehicle this weekend to inspect/verify what is stated in the ad. I would appreciate any advice or insight this forum could provide as to feasibility, fair price, or any other random thoughts you have to share.

My thinking is that if there is no major structural rust and the price is fair I’ll do my best to make the purchase happen and save the car from the scrap yard. I know the scope of this project is way over my head but I’ve got time, a bit of money, and sometimes I’m too stupid to quit something. I’d be approaching this as a long term project, so I’m not too concerned by the fact that it appears every single panel/area/system needs attention.

The only fear I have is getting into a lost cause and not having enough knowledge to know the difference.
 
Hi All,

I am local to this and going to view the vehicle this weekend to inspect/verify what is stated in the ad. I would appreciate any advice or insight this forum could provide as to feasibility, fair price, or any other random thoughts you have to share.

My thinking is that if there is no major structural rust and the price is fair I’ll do my best to make the purchase happen and save the car from the scrap yard. I know the scope of this project is way over my head but I’ve got time, a bit of money, and sometimes I’m too stupid to quit something. I’d be approaching this as a long term project, so I’m not too concerned by the fact that it appears every single panel/area/system needs attention.

The only fear I have is getting into a lost cause and not having enough knowledge to know the difference.
Welcome to Xweb @Hilbert.jrh,

I own a pretty nice 78 project car I bought from the original owner who lives in SoCal. Since you asked for opinions and advice on this 78:

Go in with open eyes and really look it over carefully. Note things like the "custom" switch panel screwed to the dash on the driver's side. There is also an odd panel at the center of the dash where the radio would live, but I can't really see what it might be used for. Door cards look wrong for a 78, wheels are wrong for a 78, seats are reupholstered and falling apart, every body panel is damaged or rusted. I can only imagine the condition of the underside of the car and what additional wiring mods lurk in the engine bay. This X is basically a parts car with not very good parts. :(

Just my opinion of course. If you think you can want to invest the time and money to save it, more power to you.

Price? The ad says "$1", that should be your starting offer. :)
 
Welcome to Xweb @Hilbert.jrh,

I own a pretty nice 78 project car I bought from the original owner who lives in SoCal. Since you asked for opinions and advice on this 78:

Go in with open eyes and really look it over carefully. Note things like the "custom" switch panel screwed to the dash on the driver's side. There is also an odd panel at the center of the dash where the radio would live, but I can't really see what it might be used for. Door cards look wrong for a 78, wheels are wrong for a 78, seats are reupholstered and falling apart, every body panel is damaged or rusted. I can only imagine the condition of the underside of the car and what additional wiring mods lurk in the engine bay. This X is basically a parts car with not very good parts. :(

Just my opinion of course. If you think you can want to invest the time and money to save it, more power to you.

Price? The ad says "$1", that should be your starting offer. :)
Thanks! I appreciate the input. Anything you would say is an absolute pass? Or a few things I can use as a benchmark to inspect in person to help make a decision to proceed or walk away? From what I’ve read my understanding is that the main concern is making sure its structural components are rust free.
 
Let's assume that you have some mechanical skills, but have no sheet metal repair and welding skills or have experience repairing shorted wiring harnesses. If you do not have these skills, you might pay someone to properly fix it for you. The added switches on the dash hint that this car has a ruined steering column ignition switch and the wires that lead to it. This is a common failure on these cars. On this site, you can research 'brown wire' upgrade. The headlite switch is also know to fail on these cars. A common failure is the waterpump to thermostat crossover pipe and also the front to back radiator pipes (which are welded into the center tunnel. These pipes develop rust and pinhole leaks. It is common for these engines to die due to overheating. The reason they overheat is most often not the engine, but the water pipes or a clogged radiator or heater core. If this car has rust at the base of the windshield or a crack on the windshield, its only value may be as a parts car. If it has no floor or frame rust it may be a good basis for a no windshield race car. My estimates based on restoring the pictured orange X 6 -8 years ago:
- rust repair $1000 to $3000
- body dents and paint $4000- $8000
- new coolant pipes and labor to install $1000 to $1500
- new tires $400
- battery $200
- rebuild engine $2000 in parts. machine work for engine $500 to $1500
- overhaul transaxle if needed $1500 (hard to find good parts is a problem)
-new struts $400
-wheel bearings $100 (and $400 to install them)
-seats, door panels, carpet, dash pad $1000
Of course, if you have all the specialized skills and do quality work (for free) you might end up only spending $5000 and have a very nice car.
 
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Thanks! I appreciate the input. Anything you would say is an absolute pass? Or a few things I can use as a benchmark to inspect in person to help make a decision to proceed or walk away? From what I’ve read my understanding is that the main concern is making sure its structural components are rust free.
If the pictures aren't enough to turn you away, then yes, rust is definitely a problem for cars that haven't been maintained. This car hasn't been maintained in any way that I can see.

Open the frunk and check the battery tray, the floor, shock towers and the sidewalls for rust.

Open the the engine bay and look for rust in the front and rear shock towers and the side pods. Does the engine look complete? Pop the cap off the reservoir and see if it is pretty full of coolant. If not, the cooling system is probably compromised.

Open the rear trunk. Look for rust in the lower areas of the rear trunk corners. The rear trunk also has a sheet metal false floor covering a fiberglass mat of insulation. That mat has a tendency to hold moisture and rust out the actual floor above the exhaust.

Someone mentioned checking for rust around the windshield. That is bad and difficult to correct.

Look under the car and see if the rocker areas look sound, does the floor area under the frunk and seats look sound?

I could go on and on. I have looked at several Xs in similar condition, every one of them was listed as a part car. As John mentioned, unless you are a great mechanic and body man, this 78 not the car for you. You would likely have to buy a second X to make one complete car.


As an example: I got this 75 for free several years ago as part of a three X package deal. It doesn't look bad in the photos, but it was completely rusted out underneath. I kept the wheels, but ended up giving this 75 away to another X guy to use for parts. He harvested a few things, like the bumpers, the frunk lid and some trim pieces, then junked it.

75 - Copy.JPGhauler1_75.JPGhauler2_75.JPGhauler3_75.JPGhauler4_75.JPGhauler5_75.JPGhauler6_75.JPGhauler7_75.JPG

In the end, I wished I had left it in Kansas where I found it.
 
Let's assume that you have some mechanical skills, but have no sheet metal repair and welding skills or have experience repairing shorted wiring harnesses. If you do not have these skills, you might pay someone to properly fix it for you. The added switches on the dash hint that this car has a ruined steering column ignition switch and the wires that lead to it. This is a common failure on these cars. On this site, you can research 'brown wire' upgrade. The headlite switch is also know to fail on these cars. A common failure is the waterpump to thermostat crossover pipe and also the front to back radiator pipes (which are welded into the center tunnel. These pipes develop rust and pinhole leaks. It is common for these engines to die due to overheating. The reason they overheat is most often not the engine, but the water pipes or a clogged radiator or heater core. If this car has rust at the base of the windshield or a crack on the windshield, its only value may be as a parts car. If it has no floor or frame rust it may be a good basis for a no windshield race car. My estimates based on restoring the pictured orange X 6 -8 years ago:
- rust repair $1000 to $3000
- body dents and paint $4000- $8000
- new coolant pipes and labor to install $1000 to $1500
- new tires $400
- battery $200
- rebuild engine $2000 in parts. machine work for engine $500 to $1500
- overhaul transaxle if needed $1500 (hard to find good parts is a problem)
-new struts $400
-wheel bearings $100 (and $400 to install them)
-seats, door panels, carpet, dash pad $1000
Of course, if you have all the specialized skills and do quality work (for free) you might end up only spending $5000 and have a very nice car.
A lot of info here. Thank you for taking the time. Your assumptions are absolutely correct. I know how to operate basic tools and have a bit of mechanical/electrical experience but no metalworking nor welding experience. Although if I move forward with this I see an entry level welder and lots of practice in my future 😂.
 
If the pictures aren't enough to turn you away, then yes, rust is definitely a problem for cars that haven't been maintained. This car hasn't been maintained in any way that I can see.

Open the frunk and check the battery tray, the floor, shock towers and the sidewalls for rust.

Open the the engine bay and look for rust in the front and rear shock towers and the side pods. Does the engine look complete? Pop the cap off the reservoir and see if it is pretty full of coolant. If not, the cooling system is probably compromised.

Open the rear trunk. Look for rust in the lower areas of the rear trunk corners. The rear trunk also has a sheet metal false floor covering a fiberglass mat of insulation. That mat has a tendency to hold moisture and rust out the actual floor above the exhaust.

Someone mentioned checking for rust around the windshield. That is bad and difficult to correct.

Look under the car and see if the rocker areas look sound, does the floor area under the frunk and seats look sound?

I could go on and on. I have looked at several Xs in similar condition, every one of them was listed as a part car. As John mentioned, unless you are a great mechanic and body man, this 78 not the car for you. You would likely have to buy a second X to make one complete car.


As an example: I got this 75 for free several years ago as part of a three X package deal. It doesn't look bad in the photos, but it was completely rusted out underneath. I kept the wheels, but ended up giving this 75 away to another X guy to use for parts. He harvested a few things, like the bumpers, the frunk lid and some trim pieces, then junked it.

View attachment 76913View attachment 76914View attachment 76915View attachment 76917View attachment 76918View attachment 76919View attachment 76920View attachment 76921

In the end, I wished I had left it in Kansas where I found it.
Oh man that is tragic. You’re all giving me pause, which is what I need. I’m still going to go and see, but this is preparing me to walk away.
 
AND.....let's not forget if everything actually works out as planned, this is a '78 carb car that will have to get through smog (visual and the roller/sniffer). Not an easy feat even for a time capsule car. Unless you want to try and hone your fabrication/welding skills, the first rule of auto restoration is to start with the absolute best body structure you can find/afford. As a Cali resident, if you want to enjoy building an X your way, I'd go on the the hunt for a smog exempt '74-75.
 
AND.....let's not forget if everything actually works out as planned, this is a '78 carb car that will have to get through smog (visual and the roller/sniffer). Not an easy feat even for a time capsule car. Unless you want to try and hone your fabrication/welding skills, the first rule of auto restoration is to start with the absolute best body structure you can find/afford. As a Cali resident, if you want to enjoy building an X your way, I'd go on the the hunt for a smog exempt '74-75.
IMG_0321.gif

The seller stated it’s currently non-op’d since his father couldn’t get it to pass. The reason I’ve been even entertaining the idea is the dearth of options and I’d rather take an extremely long shot than none.
 
Here is a post to look at, these pics are of a body I gave up on. Most of this was only revealed after sandblasting.
 
Here is a post to look at, these pics are of a body I gave up on. Most of this was only revealed after sandblasting.
Oof that is bad. I’m hoping to get more info on the life of the car from the seller, but I’m crossing my fingers that by virtue of being in southern CA the rust won’t be so extensive.
 
A safe path might be to take a lot of pictures espeically of the areas mentioned. Then post them here, allow the group to help you determine if this is worth the effort. The people on this board are super helpful and very nice. It's been a treat restoring my X with thier help. This way you'll never have any "what ifs" if you have to walk away.
 
A safe path might be to take a lot of pictures espeically of the areas mentioned. Then post them here, allow the group to help you determine if this is worth the effort. The people on this board are super helpful and very nice. It's been a treat restoring my X with thier help. This way you'll never have any "what ifs" if you have to walk away.
Definitely. I’m so impressed by this forum and community.
 
Do not be swayed by proximity, get the best bodied X you can up front. Even if you have to ship it or rent a trailer. I live in STL and I have owned at least eight Xs. The only X I bought close to home was my first, a brand new 1980 off the dealer lot here in STL.

Just as an example, this 76 X turned up in a quick nationwide search of CL. Yes it is in Montana, but for $3200 plus $1500 (a guesstimate) in shipping, you could get it home. It would still be a project, but a better starting point IMHO. And it has the ultra rare sunroof in a targa top option. :)

Be patient and check CL and FB daily for Xs. Now that we know you are looking, check back here in the FS&W too.
 
Oof that is bad. I’m hoping to get more info on the life of the car from the seller, but I’m crossing my fingers that by virtue of being in southern CA the rust won’t be so extensive.
That's not always a good assumption. I'm in Silicon Valley and have seen a fair share of X1/9s that lived near the coast that had amazingly bad rust issues.
 
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