Central Lock/ Keyless Entry / BB cluster

lookforjoe

True Classic
Finally got around to installing the A1 Electric Central Lock Kit, along with a remote trunk release, and (Bulldog) BW853 4-button keyless entry system. I installed a cluster from BBrown recently - very nice work on his part.

Trunk remote is mounted on left panel so wire is a straight pull

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in testing, the remote cannot overcome the heavy spring tension of the lock - I had to remove the 'helper' spring off the lever, then it worked fine

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I used the live blue/red feed already present in the right 1/4 to power it - cut the other end * the electrical unit & spliced in the fuse holder & remote release switch, which I also mounted in the central electrical unit cover, in front of the fuse panel (forgot to take a pic).

Mounted the central lock motors following the example of someone on here (sorry, forgot who posted the pics). Routed harness through stock wiring conduit. Took out the drip sheet & repaired the visible tear while I was at it.

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I taped the connectors outside the inner door skin, since they are not waterproof, I don't want them laying in the door

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took the opportunity to coat the backside of the door cards with clear acrylic spray & used velcro to install (recall someone on here mentioned doing that), getting rid of all those clips that always break.

Main relay & harness is attached to top of central electrical unit, to keep all relays & fuses in one place.

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Keyless entry system required adding THREE additional relays, one for the trunk remote, one for the interior light function, and one for the flashing parking lights function (that was a PITA figuring out which wire would feed just the parking lights & not trigger the H/L motors). I tapped into all the feeds at the CEU, so as not to have extra wires running all over the dash.

Main Module for the Keyless Entry is up behind glovebox, to get antenna as high up as possible & clear of sheet metal signal interference

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Valet mode button is installed in the right side of the glovebox, alarm indicator LED is mounted at end of dash/A pillar on pass side.


Cluster:

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I have a VDO sender, and gauge reads backwards as a result. Still need to figure out how to invert the signal- no desire to use the funky Fiat sender adapter mess.

Since it's all LED, I rewired the cluster illumination through the panel light rheostat, it's too bright for me otherwise.

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Now, I need to figure out a rewire of the headlight motors, so that I don't get such a high current draw (tested with a VAT40, anywhere from 5-10amp momentary draw when motors first operate). EDIT: found this thread, which reminded me I now have the X1/9 electrical diagnostic manual! Diagrams for the headlight cover circuits are much better evaluated with decent schematics - but still undecided on where to modify the circuit - it's bloody complex as all hell. I'd like to have the pods only come up with headlights while I'm at it.
 
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Nice work Hussein,

I also did remote power door locks but I've been too lazy to finish up with the rear trunk release. Maybe another year... :grin:

I see you mention that you rewired the dimmer to your cluster. (?)
Mine came wired from the factory that way, so I'm wondering why you had to route the wire from the control. Was yours hardwired to +12 without going through the dimmer?

The headlight motor current draw seems normal to me. Motors (in general) put out a pretty big EMF back-kick when they start up, but the best way I know to reduce back-EMF is to use a good fast schottky diode across the motor feed, close to the motor. I doubt you'll be able to reduce the current the motor uses beyond making sure your headlight pod isn't binding. But let us know how you make out.
 
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Mmmm...

....those Bob Brown clusters are tasty!:excited::love::thumbsup:

Seeing yours:), I might have to put power door locks on the schedule for this winter
 
Nice job, about headlight motors...

Very cool!

About the headlight motors, they use 16A fuses, so I don't know if you can do much about that 10A draw unless you change to different motors? Speculating here, this is out of my comfort zone.:hmm:
 
What's the pull rating on the solenoid you used for the rear trunk? I have one that looks just like that but I think it's too weak to open the trunk. Just wondering if it might work if I removed the return spring, as you did...
 
Another example of why I come to this board daily (hourly? minutely? refresh alot?)

This is on my 'to do' list - more so, as when I was recently trying to transplant some key'd locks into my doors I snapped the lock/unlock connections off the metal (me gorilla hands not so subtle sometimes), leaving me back where I was before I began the transplant. Sigh ...

As soon as I complete the gutting of the 86 I'll begin searching out this stuff - how did you come across the components you needed?


Erik
 
Someone on here suggested A1electric - that's where the kits came from for the c/lock & trunk. The Bulldog kit I bought off eBay, based on the kit #'s someone posted on here. the one I used is like this, but I paid $34.
 
I see you mention that you rewired the dimmer to your cluster. (?)
Mine came wired from the factory that way, so I'm wondering why you had to route the wire from the control. Was yours hardwired to +12 without going through the dimmer?

My cluster illumination was wired from the light switch - it didn't go through the dimmer at all. I removed the feed from the cluster, and ran a new wire from the dimmer output to the cluster - it is now illuminated all the time, like the panel lights, but that's fine with me

The headlight motor current draw seems normal to me. Motors (in general) put out a pretty big EMF back-kick when they start up, but the best way I know to reduce back-EMF is to use a good fast schottky diode across the motor feed, close to the motor. I doubt you'll be able to reduce the current the motor uses beyond making sure your headlight pod isn't binding. But let us know how you make out.

I spent a good couple of hours today redoing the ground clusters in the front pods. I decided that before I go adding any further complexity to the system I should go over all the basics, and good grounds are essential, as we all know. I'll add a bunch of pics of what I found & did.
 
pic of the trunk solenoid mounted

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my trunk layout

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riveted a couple of old Volvo tool pouches to the firewall damper :)

trunk release button

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next to my interior light cutout switch

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What's the pull rating on the solenoid you used for the rear trunk? I have one that looks just like that but I think it's too weak to open the trunk. Just wondering if it might work if I removed the return spring, as you did...

I started this project the other day and was investigating how to mount the trunk solenoid when I discovered the return spring issue. The spring is ridiculous and I doubt there is a solenoid available that will overcome it. Removing the spring reduced the effort required to open the trunk by probably 80%. There is an internal return spring in the latch so the external one is redundant and unnecessary. I think removing it will help improve the life of the cable and the lever in the door jam as well.
 
Actuators

Electric door lock actuators operate quite fast and over time the hammering movement can damage the door lock. I would make a few more bends on the rod from the actuator to the door lock (see yellow marking in the picture) to soften the movement.

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Electric door lock actuators operate quite fast and over time the hammering movement can damage the door lock. I would make a few more bends on the rod from the actuator to the door lock (see yellow marking in the picture) to soften the movement.

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I'm going to have to try this mod - I have found that the actuators are very sensitive to adjustment & can 'bounce' against the switch, which makes them cycle, locking the doors when I'm trying to unlock :sigh:
 
I guess. You need one relay for each function (park lights, int lights, trunk remote) then the combined relay for the C/lock. Not sure how it could be simplified, unless a combined (with diode?) relay could be substituted for the 2 lights relays...
 
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