Abarth X1/9 Road testing.
- Thread starter TonyK
- Start date
TonyK
True Classic
Road day 2
What I can tell you is based on observation.
In Standard mode the boost is limited to about 10-12 PSI all gears. There are no electrical connections to the transmission. In Sport mode what I see are peaks of 22 PSI boost limited to 20 PSI boost. In this mode the car is very spirited.
Bob drove his car today and I followed him. We put on another 70 miles on the car the weather clear and sunny with 85 degree temperatures. We also did some zero to 62 Mile per hour runs. My speedometer is calibrated in Kilometers. Bob was in the car with the stop watch. Bob weighs in at 170 Lbs.
Zero to 62 Miles per hour.
Run 1 no sport mode 10.74 seconds
Run 2 no sport mode 9.49 seconds.
Run 1 in sport mode 9.79 seconds.
Run 2 in sport mode 8.97 seconds.
The sport mode runs the rear wheels did break free in 1st and second gears. Bob did a video and the car got a bit squirrely on me I will put it up on You Tube when I get the chance back at home in Canada.
On the down side of all of this 2 blocks away from Bob's house sitting waiting for the traffic light to change the engine dropped a cylinder.
At Bob's I down loaded the codes, the P1239 Oil Temperature was again posted. I have not pulled out the spacer yet. Plus the P0351 bad coil and PO301 Miss fire. I pulled the codes, started the engine, it was lumpy and within 30 seconds it reset it's self, so there is a bit more I have to do here to resolve this and that is why I am here in Kentucky in the hot weather working through this. Now if I talk to a Fiat service tech, what they tell me is to resolve the DTC's and all will be fine.
No help at all.
Getting closer.
TonyK.
At Bob Martin's in Radcliff Kentucky.
What I can tell you is based on observation.
In Standard mode the boost is limited to about 10-12 PSI all gears. There are no electrical connections to the transmission. In Sport mode what I see are peaks of 22 PSI boost limited to 20 PSI boost. In this mode the car is very spirited.
Bob drove his car today and I followed him. We put on another 70 miles on the car the weather clear and sunny with 85 degree temperatures. We also did some zero to 62 Mile per hour runs. My speedometer is calibrated in Kilometers. Bob was in the car with the stop watch. Bob weighs in at 170 Lbs.
Zero to 62 Miles per hour.
Run 1 no sport mode 10.74 seconds
Run 2 no sport mode 9.49 seconds.
Run 1 in sport mode 9.79 seconds.
Run 2 in sport mode 8.97 seconds.
The sport mode runs the rear wheels did break free in 1st and second gears. Bob did a video and the car got a bit squirrely on me I will put it up on You Tube when I get the chance back at home in Canada.
On the down side of all of this 2 blocks away from Bob's house sitting waiting for the traffic light to change the engine dropped a cylinder.
At Bob's I down loaded the codes, the P1239 Oil Temperature was again posted. I have not pulled out the spacer yet. Plus the P0351 bad coil and PO301 Miss fire. I pulled the codes, started the engine, it was lumpy and within 30 seconds it reset it's self, so there is a bit more I have to do here to resolve this and that is why I am here in Kentucky in the hot weather working through this. Now if I talk to a Fiat service tech, what they tell me is to resolve the DTC's and all will be fine.
No help at all.
Getting closer.
TonyK.
At Bob Martin's in Radcliff Kentucky.
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
(don't know how to delete a post)
.
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TonyK
True Classic
More information.
Well I brought the car back to Canada and I have had a lot to do around the house in my personal life and my full time job. With the car off of the trailer I pressed the sport button again and nothing. Man this is getting to be a bit tiring. So once again I dug into this wiring problem only to find that the pin connector is not making connection on the body control module C4 connector. I removed the female connector and squeezed it and now have the sport mode working again.
This car has 2730 miles on it and has wiring problems. I had issues with the after run cooling pump connection as well and again it was a pin connector. Currently I also have an O2 sensor DTC that I am starting to wonder if it is a pin connection as well. More on that latter.
I have a short video Clip working with Bob on his Dallara lighting, front signal lights and marker lights front and rear. Watch the video and listen to Bob, you just have to love his character, he can't help but make me laugh and it is one of the many reasons I enjoy spending time with him. As I get some more time I will explain some problems and theory's that I have been facing and will post a few more video clips.
I have not made them public, but anyone reading this thread will be able to click on the link to obtain access.
https://youtu.be/sOwbHbAa5ys
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
As of you may know I have installed a Fiat 500 Abarth engine from a 2012 car into my 87 X1/9. As swaps go they are complicated, technology has changed and OEM want to protect it's design and product. ECU's are locked down and changing that program can be difficult if not impossible leaving only to work with what is there.
To prove theories and solutions road testing for reliability is required.
So for this week I am in Radcliff Kentucky staying with Bob Martin.
As luck would have it I unloaded the car and Bob and I took the car for drive but the Sport Button would not engage the 160 HP mode. I traced the problem to an open wire and made repairs. So for now, no limp mode, the car is running very well and it is possible to engage sport mode.
Back in Bob's shop we did a lighting upgrade from T8 light fixture to T5 Light fixtures. I have attached pictures, will provide more updates throughout this week.
TonyK.
At Bob Martin's in Radcliff Kentucky.
Well I brought the car back to Canada and I have had a lot to do around the house in my personal life and my full time job. With the car off of the trailer I pressed the sport button again and nothing. Man this is getting to be a bit tiring. So once again I dug into this wiring problem only to find that the pin connector is not making connection on the body control module C4 connector. I removed the female connector and squeezed it and now have the sport mode working again.
This car has 2730 miles on it and has wiring problems. I had issues with the after run cooling pump connection as well and again it was a pin connector. Currently I also have an O2 sensor DTC that I am starting to wonder if it is a pin connection as well. More on that latter.
I have a short video Clip working with Bob on his Dallara lighting, front signal lights and marker lights front and rear. Watch the video and listen to Bob, you just have to love his character, he can't help but make me laugh and it is one of the many reasons I enjoy spending time with him. As I get some more time I will explain some problems and theory's that I have been facing and will post a few more video clips.
I have not made them public, but anyone reading this thread will be able to click on the link to obtain access.
https://youtu.be/sOwbHbAa5ys
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
stingray250
True Classic
Wiring....
I'm still in awe at your successful attempt to navigate the modern Fiat CAN bus system for stand alone... Maybe your next swap will be a Ecotec 2.4 from GM?????
:hmm: :nod:
BTW on a side note... I just crossed to 5K mark on my 2.2 Ecotec VW Baja... Other than a loose turbo downpipe flange from driving it like I stole it... It's been a flawless power plant thus far... Bonus??? I'm calculating fuel burn at 28mpg over all...
I'm still in awe at your successful attempt to navigate the modern Fiat CAN bus system for stand alone... Maybe your next swap will be a Ecotec 2.4 from GM?????
:hmm: :nod:
BTW on a side note... I just crossed to 5K mark on my 2.2 Ecotec VW Baja... Other than a loose turbo downpipe flange from driving it like I stole it... It's been a flawless power plant thus far... Bonus??? I'm calculating fuel burn at 28mpg over all...
TonyK
True Classic
Interesting statements
When I set out on this project I knew it would be complicated and quickly came to the conclusion that the engine required the Stock ECU to run. I wish that is all it needed to run. As I have stated before this car is two entities put together and the OEM has inter connected things that most would not expect to have an effect on engine running or performance. There are little pit falls in the ECU program that present problems with running.
So my method of getting this engine to run was not complicated. Strip out everything from a stock Abarth Car and start the engine and get it to run. Next step, start unpluging stuff and see if it will stay running or will still start. Then start lifting wires one at time and continue along this path while making notes and wiring diagrams. Up until I returned from Kentucky I have been running the car/ engine without wheel sensors. The engine never knew it was moving, well I think the dyanamic sensor has some information feeding the ECU. So in non sport mode boost was not limited in 1st and 2nd gear to only 10 PSI. However when I installed the wheel sensors the boost was limited to 10 PSI in 1st and 2nd gear as the wheel sensor counts now give the ECU added information. In sport mode the boost goes higher than 10 PSI as stated before.
The wiring harness on this car has had Pin connection problems on the after run turbo charger cooling pump and the Sport Button. One other Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been for the O2 sensor and I will post the information from Fiat about the O2 sensor. ( I may be the first one on this form to discuss DTC's in an early Fiat.)
P2244 Permanent and pending.
Theory of Operation
The wide-band O2 Sensor operates differently than traditional O2 Sensors. The wide-band O2 Sensor tip consists of two cells that provide different functions, a measurement chamber and a detection chamber with pumping capabilities. The oxygen pumping function is the ability to pump oxygen into or out of the measurement chamber depending on the level of oxygen in the measurement chamber. This function provides the wide-band sensing capabilities and is critical for proper oxygen measurement. The O2 Sensor Reference circuit provides a common bias supply to both the O2 Sensor Signal and the O2 Sensor Pump Cell Current circuits.
During normal operation, the O2 Sensor Reference voltage and O2 Sensor Signal voltage will be a fixed voltage value. The O2 Sensor Current Pump voltage will switch from between 0.45 volts above and below the fixed O2 Sensor Return voltage, allowing current to flow in either direction through the pump. This correlates with the pumping of oxygen into and out of the measurement chamber. On a properly operating vehicle, this happens very quickly and the voltage reading should maintain a steady 0.45 volts when taking a voltage measurement between the O2 Sensor Signal circuit and the O2 Sensor Reference circuit of the O2 Sensor with the engine running and the O2 Sensor operating in closed loop.
When the exhaust stream has a lean air/fuel ratio (high oxygen content) the pumping element voltage will move toward +0.45 volts pumping oxygen out of the measurement chamber. When the exhaust stream has a rich air/fuel ratio (relatively low oxygen content) the pumping element voltage will move toward -0.45 volts pumping oxygen into the measurement chamber.
- When Monitored:
With the ECT above 70° C (158° F), engine RPM between 1400 and 2300, vehicle speed between 64 and 96 kph (40 and 60 mph) and engine run time greater than three minutes.
- Set Condition:
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detects that the oxygen sensor signal does not switch adequately during monitoring. Two Trip Fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.
What you will now see is that the O2 sensor is dependent on the Wheel sensors seeing the car moving. What does that have to do with an engine running? Nothing, but this is another issue to bring the car back to the dealer for service.
So Currently I think the Limp mode is being caused by the O2 sensor not resetting first due to no wheel sensor input and secondly because there could be a bad connection between the O2 sensor and the ECU.
The pins and connections on this car at times are difficult to take apart. Fiat sells a tool kit to remove the pins from the connectors. Dealer gets them for nothing but I can purchase them for $525 and that is not going to happen. So I am forced to make tools to try and repair connectors and examine wiring issues by pin probing through the insulation.
The installation of the wheel sensors may be the resolution to the O2 sensor problem or could now prove that I have a wiring issue with this sensor. By the way I have changed the sensor 3 times, so I am leaning to either wheel sensor not installed or wiring problem that will take a bit more time to sort out.
Still working on it.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
When I set out on this project I knew it would be complicated and quickly came to the conclusion that the engine required the Stock ECU to run. I wish that is all it needed to run. As I have stated before this car is two entities put together and the OEM has inter connected things that most would not expect to have an effect on engine running or performance. There are little pit falls in the ECU program that present problems with running.
So my method of getting this engine to run was not complicated. Strip out everything from a stock Abarth Car and start the engine and get it to run. Next step, start unpluging stuff and see if it will stay running or will still start. Then start lifting wires one at time and continue along this path while making notes and wiring diagrams. Up until I returned from Kentucky I have been running the car/ engine without wheel sensors. The engine never knew it was moving, well I think the dyanamic sensor has some information feeding the ECU. So in non sport mode boost was not limited in 1st and 2nd gear to only 10 PSI. However when I installed the wheel sensors the boost was limited to 10 PSI in 1st and 2nd gear as the wheel sensor counts now give the ECU added information. In sport mode the boost goes higher than 10 PSI as stated before.
The wiring harness on this car has had Pin connection problems on the after run turbo charger cooling pump and the Sport Button. One other Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been for the O2 sensor and I will post the information from Fiat about the O2 sensor. ( I may be the first one on this form to discuss DTC's in an early Fiat.)
P2244 Permanent and pending.
Theory of Operation
The wide-band O2 Sensor operates differently than traditional O2 Sensors. The wide-band O2 Sensor tip consists of two cells that provide different functions, a measurement chamber and a detection chamber with pumping capabilities. The oxygen pumping function is the ability to pump oxygen into or out of the measurement chamber depending on the level of oxygen in the measurement chamber. This function provides the wide-band sensing capabilities and is critical for proper oxygen measurement. The O2 Sensor Reference circuit provides a common bias supply to both the O2 Sensor Signal and the O2 Sensor Pump Cell Current circuits.
During normal operation, the O2 Sensor Reference voltage and O2 Sensor Signal voltage will be a fixed voltage value. The O2 Sensor Current Pump voltage will switch from between 0.45 volts above and below the fixed O2 Sensor Return voltage, allowing current to flow in either direction through the pump. This correlates with the pumping of oxygen into and out of the measurement chamber. On a properly operating vehicle, this happens very quickly and the voltage reading should maintain a steady 0.45 volts when taking a voltage measurement between the O2 Sensor Signal circuit and the O2 Sensor Reference circuit of the O2 Sensor with the engine running and the O2 Sensor operating in closed loop.
When the exhaust stream has a lean air/fuel ratio (high oxygen content) the pumping element voltage will move toward +0.45 volts pumping oxygen out of the measurement chamber. When the exhaust stream has a rich air/fuel ratio (relatively low oxygen content) the pumping element voltage will move toward -0.45 volts pumping oxygen into the measurement chamber.
- When Monitored:
With the ECT above 70° C (158° F), engine RPM between 1400 and 2300, vehicle speed between 64 and 96 kph (40 and 60 mph) and engine run time greater than three minutes.
- Set Condition:
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detects that the oxygen sensor signal does not switch adequately during monitoring. Two Trip Fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.
What you will now see is that the O2 sensor is dependent on the Wheel sensors seeing the car moving. What does that have to do with an engine running? Nothing, but this is another issue to bring the car back to the dealer for service.
So Currently I think the Limp mode is being caused by the O2 sensor not resetting first due to no wheel sensor input and secondly because there could be a bad connection between the O2 sensor and the ECU.
The pins and connections on this car at times are difficult to take apart. Fiat sells a tool kit to remove the pins from the connectors. Dealer gets them for nothing but I can purchase them for $525 and that is not going to happen. So I am forced to make tools to try and repair connectors and examine wiring issues by pin probing through the insulation.
The installation of the wheel sensors may be the resolution to the O2 sensor problem or could now prove that I have a wiring issue with this sensor. By the way I have changed the sensor 3 times, so I am leaning to either wheel sensor not installed or wiring problem that will take a bit more time to sort out.
Still working on it.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
stingray250
True Classic
Been there done that!
As it happens, I had a similar issue with the VW... It ran fine, but being anal as I am, I was experiencing a slight idle flare when coming to a complete stop... After extensive testing, I narrowed it down to the absence of a VSS signal... ECU never knew when the car was moving or at idle... Being a speed density arrangement, in deceleration the trims would go lean then inherently attempt to compensate and go rich... Or should I say overcompensate and thus created an idle "flare"...
What to do... IMPROVISE!!!
I found that the factory GM VSS reluctor that was originally pressed onto the GM diff fit the VW C/V boot metal shoulder... A few set screws, a makeshift sensor mount and Viola!!!!! Only 72' GM powered VW in existence with a functional VSS... Helped the drivability immensely...
I chose the outboard C/V due to it's stability... The inboard C/V had some up and down movement... Actually the output flange did.
In respect to the o2, could be anything from placement in the exhaust stream to wiring... Any "trip data" on the o2??? Maybe some numeric values or a wave form picture of the sensor while driving and or under boost??? I'd be willing to help interpret the data...
Good luck...
As it happens, I had a similar issue with the VW... It ran fine, but being anal as I am, I was experiencing a slight idle flare when coming to a complete stop... After extensive testing, I narrowed it down to the absence of a VSS signal... ECU never knew when the car was moving or at idle... Being a speed density arrangement, in deceleration the trims would go lean then inherently attempt to compensate and go rich... Or should I say overcompensate and thus created an idle "flare"...
What to do... IMPROVISE!!!
I found that the factory GM VSS reluctor that was originally pressed onto the GM diff fit the VW C/V boot metal shoulder... A few set screws, a makeshift sensor mount and Viola!!!!! Only 72' GM powered VW in existence with a functional VSS... Helped the drivability immensely...
I chose the outboard C/V due to it's stability... The inboard C/V had some up and down movement... Actually the output flange did.
In respect to the o2, could be anything from placement in the exhaust stream to wiring... Any "trip data" on the o2??? Maybe some numeric values or a wave form picture of the sensor while driving and or under boost??? I'd be willing to help interpret the data...
Good luck...
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
WELL DONE... Can we see more? nt
,
,
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
I know their was a Utube show called roadkill that did a drag race against another show (Monkey Garage) and both teams used the new super 750 hp go fast motor from Mopar. one car they installed everything (including the ugly taillights). and the other car fought with making the motor and ECU run stand alone. Seams the stand alone running was WAY tougher, but a much nicer/cleaner install. (oh and won the drag race because of the pure drag race build they did).
Hat's off to the people who get so into the details!!
Hat's off to the people who get so into the details!!
TonyK
True Classic
I watched this segment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRD4Z5R8s2c
I saw this show and watched as they lopped off wires and figured the engine would run on the stock ECU. Looking at what they were doing I came to the conclusion that the engine would not run. Six guys spent 2 days and got no where. The after market ECU had only one designed tune in it and could not replicate the stock ECU performance in all running conditions.
TonyK
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRD4Z5R8s2c
I saw this show and watched as they lopped off wires and figured the engine would run on the stock ECU. Looking at what they were doing I came to the conclusion that the engine would not run. Six guys spent 2 days and got no where. The after market ECU had only one designed tune in it and could not replicate the stock ECU performance in all running conditions.
TonyK
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
TonyK
True Classic
Road test Video
Bob is sitting in the right seat using his phone's stop watch.
The runs with the longer times are from a dead stop and starting off.
The shorter time runs are from letting out the clutch from 3000 rpm and standing on the gas pedal. There could be some error in the times as I was driving and watching the Speedo the telling Bob I was at 62 MPH.
Anyway here is a video of the last test run.
https://youtu.be/Wkh_zYODrKc
TonyK
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Bob is sitting in the right seat using his phone's stop watch.
The runs with the longer times are from a dead stop and starting off.
The shorter time runs are from letting out the clutch from 3000 rpm and standing on the gas pedal. There could be some error in the times as I was driving and watching the Speedo the telling Bob I was at 62 MPH.
Anyway here is a video of the last test run.
https://youtu.be/Wkh_zYODrKc
TonyK
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
TonyK
True Classic
Wheel and O2 sensors
The wheel sensors are not of this type but rather segments of magnets installed on rings. The sensor you show in your picture uses a reluctor and a sensor that has a magnet in it. I suspect that the ECU could tell the difference and the counts must also be correct.
As for the O2 sensor it is a 5 wire sensor that from reading the OBD2 port data on my Auterra software to PC appears to be very flat in voltage out put. The location of the stock O2 sensors has not been changed. I will have to do a run and record it, but currently have some things to do around the house before I can address your question and offer.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
The wheel sensors are not of this type but rather segments of magnets installed on rings. The sensor you show in your picture uses a reluctor and a sensor that has a magnet in it. I suspect that the ECU could tell the difference and the counts must also be correct.
As for the O2 sensor it is a 5 wire sensor that from reading the OBD2 port data on my Auterra software to PC appears to be very flat in voltage out put. The location of the stock O2 sensors has not been changed. I will have to do a run and record it, but currently have some things to do around the house before I can address your question and offer.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Ev0luti0n_
Low Mileage
I just found out this thread right now, but I am mega curious to read it. This comment is going to be a shot in the dark, but why didn't you go the path of ''engine + megasquirt (or other ecu of your taste''? For sure I will find out, after I read the whole thread.
Will do. For sure.
Will do. For sure.
kmead
Old enough to know better
The short answer is that the valve train on these engines is controlled by the ECU. I know someone has developed a cam controller for Mega but this control is much more complex than that. There is more to it than that as well but that is a healthy part of the answer.
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/fiats-multiair-valve-lift-system-explained
If there was a race series that used these engines, the standalone system it would use would be ideal, sadly there doesn't appear to one in the offing.
I see you are in Portugal, there are other alternatives for you in terms of recent Fiat engine combos which are not MultiAir or are a simpler version which might well be controllable with Megasqirt.
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/fiats-multiair-valve-lift-system-explained
If there was a race series that used these engines, the standalone system it would use would be ideal, sadly there doesn't appear to one in the offing.
I see you are in Portugal, there are other alternatives for you in terms of recent Fiat engine combos which are not MultiAir or are a simpler version which might well be controllable with Megasqirt.
Last edited:
Ev0luti0n_
Low Mileage
Oh! I had forgotten about multiair... Now I see. I was in fact, in Portugal. Back home I have a uno turbo mk2 with the 1.6 engine conversion, which I plan to bring to Canada.
I am currently residing in Hamilton, Ontario since last summer. I see you are from relatively close by?
I am currently residing in Hamilton, Ontario since last summer. I see you are from relatively close by?
stingray250
True Classic
Reluctor...
It's a standard wave form... The signal is basically to just let the ECU know when the car is in motion and at rest... Has little or nothing to due with runability or fuel/ignition maps while driving...... The higher the rev's the tighter the wave....
It's a standard wave form... The signal is basically to just let the ECU know when the car is in motion and at rest... Has little or nothing to due with runability or fuel/ignition maps while driving...... The higher the rev's the tighter the wave....
TonyK
True Classic
Current status
Well as experiments go this one has fallen into the electronic refuse to start condition. I will contend that I did a fair bit of experimentation when working on this project and have taken certain liberties to defeat the ECU when I can. All of this has finally caught up with me and currently the engine will not run for more than 30 seconds and displays a lock out light on the stock instrument cluster as it shuts down. It is looking like I will need to trailer the car to a dealer and have them look into the anti theft system that is preventing the car from running. FFO is coming up soon and I am unsure if I will have the car running for that event. To complicate matters my 79 needs a head gasket and I have a spare head that has been shaved, but needs the intakes at the very least ported a bit for the 40-80 cam shaft that I am running. I am thinking about using my milling machine with a boring head to open the runners and then my dremel to blend in the changes to save time. Will shoot a video and post if it works out.
As for the Abarth Engine the limp mode could have been all along an Anti theft issue. The trouble with working on these kind of swaps is that unless the ECU shows a DTC I run blind on the project. Fiat has a bunch of stuff there hidden that leaves the engine running poorly or not at all to have you take the car back to the dealer for service and parts. It is the way cars have evolved now. The ECU will run fine providing you have no DTC's, but after that, well you are at the mercy of the electronic abyss and how much dinking around you want to do to get it to run right.
So for now, I am not sure how this is going to pan out, I am in uncharted waters, without direction. Got a bunch of thinking to do, still not ready to give it up. I am sure Matt Brannon had been there with the K20 too.
Working on it.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Well as experiments go this one has fallen into the electronic refuse to start condition. I will contend that I did a fair bit of experimentation when working on this project and have taken certain liberties to defeat the ECU when I can. All of this has finally caught up with me and currently the engine will not run for more than 30 seconds and displays a lock out light on the stock instrument cluster as it shuts down. It is looking like I will need to trailer the car to a dealer and have them look into the anti theft system that is preventing the car from running. FFO is coming up soon and I am unsure if I will have the car running for that event. To complicate matters my 79 needs a head gasket and I have a spare head that has been shaved, but needs the intakes at the very least ported a bit for the 40-80 cam shaft that I am running. I am thinking about using my milling machine with a boring head to open the runners and then my dremel to blend in the changes to save time. Will shoot a video and post if it works out.
As for the Abarth Engine the limp mode could have been all along an Anti theft issue. The trouble with working on these kind of swaps is that unless the ECU shows a DTC I run blind on the project. Fiat has a bunch of stuff there hidden that leaves the engine running poorly or not at all to have you take the car back to the dealer for service and parts. It is the way cars have evolved now. The ECU will run fine providing you have no DTC's, but after that, well you are at the mercy of the electronic abyss and how much dinking around you want to do to get it to run right.
So for now, I am not sure how this is going to pan out, I am in uncharted waters, without direction. Got a bunch of thinking to do, still not ready to give it up. I am sure Matt Brannon had been there with the K20 too.
Working on it.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Last edited:
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
I wish I was 20 - 45 minutes away...
Miss ya Tony!
Miss ya Tony!