2023 Lancia Club West Coast Reunion in July -- anyone going?

RJ80

True Classic
The American Lancia Club is hosting a West Coast reunion in Oregon this July. Anyone here planning on going? I'm especially curious what the Scorpion turnout might be.

 
I am thinking of going, it is a long drive from Oxnard Ca. Ow that I look At the dates,It Interferes with the Alfa Romeo convention in South Carolina I’m going to later in that week
 
Will have to see if I’m scheduled for training at that time.

The ‘83 Zagato is ready to go, and as soon as I get the vertical shift linkage modified and installed the ‘76 Scorpion will be ready to go. Unfortunately, the ‘77 Scorpion is still getting its new 5th gear installed so that one probably won’t be ready. (Besides, I can only drive one car at a time although I’m sure I could find someone else to assist.)
 
That sounds fun. I probably won’t make it, but it gives me some unattainable goal to get my Fulvia road worthy by
 
I've received spousal approval, I'd like to meet as many of you as I can : )

I'll likely have to pretend that my Volvo C30T5 is Italian...
 
I've received spousal approval, I'd like to meet as many of you as I can : )

I'll likely have to pretend that my Volvo C30T5 is Italian...
Fantastic car though, do you have the R-Design with manual trans? Sold mine for a family car but it was a lot of fun
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I'm sorry to have missed it, my summer got kind of screwed this year. Too bad, cause it's about as local as a Lancia show gets for me...

I kind of made my own R Design. I have the manual 6 speed trans with some bolt-ons that give it much more umph than the R Design. I also gave it a nice leather interior out of a wrecked C30 that was a big improvement.
 
I made it to Monterey, the exhaust system got so hot it burned the paint off my repainted rear bumper. And I had the exhaust wrapped in heat insulation. So I limit it home, pulled the rear bumper off. Had it repainted, rewrapped the exhaust again with higher temperature material. And am going to richen the fuel mixture from the Fuel injection. The recent smog test revealed, that the car is very lean.
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I made it to Monterey, the exhaust system got so hot it burned the paint off my repainted rear bumper. And I had the exhaust wrapped in heat insulation. So I limit it home, pulled the rear bumper off. Had it repainted, rewrapped the exhaust again with higher temperature material. And am going to richen the fuel mixture from the Fuel injection. The recent smog test revealed, that the car is very lean.
I would consider ceramic coating your exhaust system. On my car, it really made a difference in keeping temperatures low. Wrapping an exhaust system can cause corrosion, I'm told, and isn't as effective.
 
I made it to Monterey, the exhaust system got so hot it burned the paint off my repainted rear bumper. And I had the exhaust wrapped in heat insulation. So I limit it home, pulled the rear bumper off. Had it repainted, rewrapped the exhaust again with higher temperature material. And am going to richen the fuel mixture from the Fuel injection. The recent smog test revealed, that the car is very lean.

What specific fuel injection system is used in this Lancia?
Overly lean mixture can damage internal engine parts like valves and more...
Proper way to set fuel mixture is on a dyno with the engine fully loaded and mixture monitored during the dyno runs..

As for heat, the entire exhaust system must be designed and built to withstand the entire exhaust system being red hot. Anything less will be a problem. This means proper ventilation and materials use to tolerate these temperatures (nee 1000 degrees F) and all associated areas must be able to tolerate this amount of heat. Best material for exhaust systems 321 stainless steel or Inconel or titanium.

Header wrap stuff does work all that well, it is very "old skol" tech and ways. The far better and modern solution is to ceramic coat the entire exhaust system. Holds up better than wrap and does better at thermal control.

Bernice
 
I made it to Monterey, the exhaust system got so hot it burned the paint off my repainted rear bumper. And I had the exhaust wrapped in heat insulation. So I limit it home, pulled the rear bumper off. Had it repainted, rewrapped the exhaust again with higher temperature material. And am going to richen the fuel mixture from the Fuel injection. The recent smog test revealed, that the car is very lean.

Ron -

Not sure what you've been feeding the old girl, but in my 35 years she never had any lean issues. That must have been a tremendous amount of heat to do all that damage so quickly. I'd get that taken care of before you head to Monterey week.
 
Mark,
I am not going to car week. The car did pass smog a few weeks before. We are going to try to richen the fuel injection system.
 
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Here are the specs for my Montecarlo from the P. O.View attachment 75864 builder of the car.

Problems here... likely serious and causing the lean running condition..

~Weber "big bore" throttle body.
~Modified FORD 'stang SVO air flow meter.
~80/40 cam.
~"Beta fuel injection" which is the Bosch L-Jetronic injection system from that era..

The idea of using larger bore intake bits is to "increase" air flow.. which means zilch unless the entire engine management system has been specifically designed/tuned to the 2.0 Lamredi TC with the 9:1 compression, 80/40 cam, exhaust system and specific cylinder head flow for ALL engine loads and running conditions (hot, cold, air density, humidity, fuel octane, and more). This appears to be one of those hack-O together, sorta running modified engines that never runs properly.

The Bosch L-jetronic injection is not very "tunable" it is an early EFI system that is mostly fixed in how it manages the petro engine. What folks do to try fooling the L-Jetronic system into trying to work with a performance engine, is bend the airflow meter curve, increase the injector fuel pressure, make the intake tract larger, tinker with the engine coolant temperature sensor and all that. All that could work if very carefully set up on a dyno with real time air/fuel mixture monitoring and exhaust temperature monitoring and engine run at varied load conditions, environment temperatures and air density.

~Was any of that done to this specific engine in the Lancia?

If not, that is the reality and task ahead of you to get this Lampredi TC running properly..

It passed "smog" ok, but the lean running condition runs a significant risk or melting the Lampredi TC innards from valves to pistons and more...
the hot exhaust is just the exterior indicator of what might be happening inside the Lampredi TC..


Bernice
 
The system was put together over 30 years ago. The engine has run good up till recently. the only change recently was, the head was removed to replace the head gasket. It was weeping oil between to block and head. Now fixed, new head bolts were used. The engine temp is below half 99% of the time. Both radiator fans work when needed.I am also replacing the thermostat and housing. With an original from classic Lancia in Italy. in two occasions‘s The temperature on the gauge when the car is standing still for long periods has jump to the higher portions of the gauge quickly and then come down just as quickly. The cooling system is in good shape. New hoses and cooling tubes from the front to the back. The car does not need to be moving for this to happen. All signs lead to a stuck thermostat that’s why that is being changed and the temperature does not stay up long enough to do any damage, and nothing comes out the overflow from the stainless steel tank. There is no water in the oil or oil in the water and the compression is good no white smoke. The smog test with the yellow highlights is from two years ago. The smog test without the highlights is the most recent.
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The system was put together over 30 years ago. The engine has run good up till recently. the only change recently was, the head was removed to replace the head gasket. It was weeping oil between to block and head. Now fixed, new head bolts were used. The engine temp is below half 99% of the time. Both radiator fans work when needed.I am also replacing the thermostat and housing. With an original from classic Lancia in Italy. in two occasions‘s The temperature on the gauge when the car is standing still for long periods has jump to the higher portions of the gauge quickly and then come down just as quickly. The cooling system is in good shape. New hoses and cooling tubes from the front to the back. The car does not need to be moving for this to happen. All signs lead to a stuck thermostat that’s why that is being changed and the temperature does not stay up long enough to do any damage, and nothing comes out the overflow from the stainless steel tank. There is no water in the oil or oil in the water and the compression is good no white smoke. The smog test with the yellow highlights is from two years ago. The smog test without the highlights is the most recent.

~Where is the EFI temperature sensor located? This sensor has an influence on running fuel mixture.
Again, smog dyno test is not an indicator of proper A/R over the entire power band of the Lampredi TC. Only way to verify this is by doing full power dyno runs monitoring both power output -vs- A/R and exhaust temperature per cylinder if possible. Simply running after being set up three decades ago does not mean it was properly set up three decades ago as chassis dyno and related monitoring was not easily available back then as they are today. This ease of chassis dyno availability has completely altered the performance aftermarket in many ways.

Or put the thermostat in the cylinder head like what Dave Shindle and others have done.

IMO, the oem three-way thermostat is not the ideal way, just like the vacuum brake boosters on the front brakes.


Bernice
 

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