What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

Alain - The Red Scorpion said:
Slave cylinder is in. Raised the front. Fluid is coming out to the unattached hose at the slave cylinder. When I connect the hose and open the bleed screw, nothing comes out. The pedal goes to the floor with no resistance. I'm at a loss as to why fluid is in the hose but won't come out of the bleed screw? Should I keep pumping the pedal?
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Some people have found that when the slave piston is at the bottom of the bore, it blocks the bleed nipple. Perhaps this is what is happening?

https://www.xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/very-short-clutch.8302/post-54816

https://www.xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/now-the-clutch-wont-bleed-pic.44977/post-437195

https://www.xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/remembering-what-it-was-like.26768/post-223456
 
You don't have to raise the car (if that's what you meant) to bleed the slave.
It helps to have someone assist with this. One depresses the clutch while the other opens & closes the bleeder.

Open the bleeder screw a quarter turn (this should be enough to allow a small amount of air/fluid to escape) if not unscrew the bleeder just a little bit more). Then follow this sequence.

Depress the clutch
Close the bleeder.
Raise the pedal
Open the bleeder
Depress the clutch
Close the bleeder.
Raise the pedal, etc.

Repeat as needed.

Once fluid is being pushed into the slave, (after the bleeder screw is closed) you should feel increasing resistance each time you depress the clutch pedal and the clutch should engage earlier each time until it feels close to or the same as when it last operated normally. Ideally you want to close the bleeder each time "just before the pedal reaches the floor". You need to depress the clutch pedal at the same speed each time, (not fast but not too slow either) and communicate with the person who's opening and closing the bleeder when you're starting and ending the clutch pedal movement. After your confident that no more air is in the line, (and you've closed the bleeder screw for the last time) the clutch pedal should be returning to its normal position by itself, each time you depress and release it.

Note:
1. Keep an eye on your clutch fluid reservoir level to make sure your not going to run dry. Refill as needed.
2. You may need to adjust the clutch engagement after you've bled the slave, to get the clutch to engage at the point off the floor that you prefer.
I like it to start grabbing within an inch off the floor, but that's my preference.
 
Recently, my son had to do both master on his 1987, It went straightforward. Then, he found some time to do it on my car (i'm working away from 500 miles, so not often back home) and he did had more problems. Raising one end wasn't needed. And my car was more trouble also because it isn't working for 24 years and everything except the hard lines were changed in the clutch, brakes system. Finally, he discovered his problem was with the bleedscrews letting air in from not only the bleeder but from the threads. He switched them, changed them, to finaly get some pressure. That was about the brakes, but the same logic would apply to the slave. He also try to be using my pressure bleeder gun, but had much better results with a another system with a big recipient in the middle. If interested I could ask him about it. Or he may chimes in cause he's also on the forum. ;) Now I have to be careful about what I'm saying about him or my family...

Also, I do agree you don't have to raise part of the car to bleed, but if you did, I would suggent raising the rear, not the front, to get the air trapped in the system to escape via the slave (airtraveling to the top).
 
ng_randolph said:
Some people have found that when the slave piston is at the bottom of the bore, it blocks the bleed nipple. Perhaps this is what is happening?
Click to expand...
If the piston is stuck at the end of it's travel, and it's not returning to the start position on it's own, you can try to manually push it back by applying pressure to the actuator rod.
 
Parked next to a nice Porsche Cayman today at the CnC. 20240511_083921.jpg
 
DanielForest said:
He also try to be using my pressure bleeder gun, but had much better results with a another system with a big recipient in the middle. If interested I could ask him about it. Or he may chimes in cause he's also on the forum.
Click to expand...
I'm curious what other system he ended up using. Maybe this should start a new thread in the workshop section.
 
Drove mine to a car show yesterday. This X is a '77 that's mostly stock, so it's no beast, but it drives so smooth. Love it!
20240512_115037.jpg
Parked next to a very nice firebird and an SUV. The Firebird was show worthy, the SUV. not so much. But it wasn't just ANY SUV, it was a Mercury Mountaineer, you don't see those everyday! And, it has a fuzzy cover over the steering wheel - custom! (I hate seeing "regular" cars at car shows, but it seems this fine SUV was just parked overnight on the public street and not moved before the "show" started, so....)

Anyway, the weather was just about perfect and the show was well attended. It's held on the public streets around the park in the town square with cars parking wherever they could find a spot. It's otherwise very informal and unstructured. There was plenty of shade, the obligatory DJ, food trucks, and a very diverse group of cars and attendees of all ages. It's the kind of show I enjoy very much, just a bunch of folks who want to gather and show off their cars, and other folks who want to see them.

Here are a couple of vids where I tried (but not very hard :)), to capture the atmosphere. Just a small sample.

One more form inside the park, wish I had been able to do a better job of helping folks understand just how nice it was.
 
MikeHynes said:
Drove mine to a car show yesterday. This X is a '77 that's mostly stock, so it's no beast, but it drives so smooth. Love it!
View attachment 84564
Parked next to a very nice firebird and an SUV. The Firebird was show worthy, the SUV. not so much. But it wasn't just ANY SUV, it was a Mercury Mountaineer, you don't see those everyday! And, it has a fuzzy cover over the steering wheel - custom! (I hate seeing "regular" cars at car shows, but it seems this fine SUV was just parked overnight on the public street and not moved before the "show" started, so....)

Anyway, the weather was just about perfect and the show was well attended. It's held on the public streets around the park in the town square with cars parking wherever they could find a spot. It's otherwise very informal and unstructured. There was plenty of shade, the obligatory DJ, food trucks, and a very diverse group of cars and attendees of all ages. It's the kind of show I enjoy very much, just a bunch of folks who want to gather and show off their cars, and other folks who want to see them.

Here are a couple of vids where I tried (but not very hard :)), to capture the atmosphere. Just a small sample.

One more form inside the park, wish I had been able to do a better job of helping folks understand just how nice it was.
Click to expand...
Hey! I'm glad one of us "Locals" made it :rolleyes: We were homeward bound from Ohio yesterday and didn't make it back until late afternoon. I like the shows around the town square. Besides being super close to our house, they are really laid back with people just enjoying their cars.
 
Michael Oxman said:
This is really a what "will" you do - I just got in some Koito e-code headlights with 55/60 Halogens from BusDepot. I need to install my relay harness first, but I have high hopes for these. The build quality is amazing.


View attachment 84579is View attachment 84580
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I can't tell about yours from the pics, but the H4's I have (different brand) are shallower in the back compared to standard headlight bulbs. That gives even more room behind them for "straight" (vs 90 degree) electrical connectors to fit the X. ;)
 
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