Valve Adjustment, Part Two-A

Dan Sarandrea (Phila)

Waitin' On Parts...
[Continued from Valve Adjustment, Part One http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/25490/ ]


In Part One we removed the cam top cover, measured our existing clearances, and recorded them. Now we are ready to remove and measure our shims. The new forum software allows 10 pics per post, so I had to break Part Two into Part Two-A and Part Two-B.

In Part 3, we'll, calculate if thinner or thicker shims are needed, select the needed shim, and install.

OK, here we go with Part Two-A.

When adjusting valve clearances, you have to know two measurements:
1. What is the existing clearance?
2. What thickness is the currently installed shim?


The only way to find out #2 is to remove the existing shim and either (a) measure it or (b) look for the marking printed on it.This is probably the second-most time consuming and "fiddly" task on our cars, because removing the valve adjustment discs (aka shims) can be a royal pain in the ass.

OK here goes.

You'll need an assortment of pick tools, small screwdrivers, a magnetic stick, shop rags, a little clean engine oil, and of course a drop light to see what you are doing. You will also need the FIAT special tool to depress the shim buckets. I have seen many nicknames here on XWeb for the tool; some call it a valve adjusting tool, a shim tool, bucket tool, bucket depression tool, etc. I can recommend XWeb Member Brian Pimm's custom designed SOHC shim tool. Contact Brian here: http://xwebforums.org/member.php?u=1198 I imagine a very experienced and confident shadetree FIAT guy could do this job with big pry tools, but for the rest of us, the real shim tool is essential and well worth the cost.

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Starting at cylinder #1 like you did when measuring the existing clearances, rotate the engine clockwise using the right rear wheel until both cam lobes are positioned so that neither is in contact with its corresponding shim and bucket. You also want the lobe for the valve you are working on to be positioned to afford maximum gap between the cam lobe heel and the shim to give you as much room as possible to extract the shim.

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Next, use your finger to dip into the pooled oil in the cambox and coat the business end of the shim tool with oil. Position the tip of the tool between the two cam lobes. Note how the two shoulders of the tool will bear on the two shim buckets and note how the center spine of the tool fits in between the buckets and works against the cam box casting. This is why your positioning of the cam lobes is important...the buckets must be at equal heights and not depressed by the cam lobe, or else the center spine of the tool will not be supported by the other bucket and the tool will slide off the non-depressed bucket and jam under the cam.

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Now use the tool like a lever, pressing down on the handle while simultaneously pushing the tool toward the camshaft. The eccentric head on the tool will depress the pair of shim buckets. The shim buckets will rotate toward the tool about 90 degrees as the tool is depressed, so you will want to pre-position the notch so that it ends up at the 3 o'clock position as shown in the pic.

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Positioning the cam properly and depressing the shim bucket with the tool is done to increase the gap between the shim bucket and the cam to where there's enough space to pull out the shim.

Now we attempt to remove the shim from the top of the shim bucket. Try a good stick magnet first, if you're lucky the shim will almost jump out of the bucket.

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My experience was that the first two shims came out with just the magnet, the rest needed a LOT of prying and coaxing with picks. The best tool turned out to be the long skinny screwdriver with the tip bent at about a 30 degree angle.

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Please follow this link to go to Part Two-B:
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/valve-adjustment-part-two-b.34270/
 
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Just a small tip for you.

I used small picks and screwdrivers for years as well until I found out a small amount of compressed air pops the shim right out. Give it a try, you will be very happy with the results.

By the way, great writeup!
 
Hi Eric,

I did not have compressed air available, but I can see how a really powerful shot from a very small orfice directed into the notch would serve to remove the shim. If you could connect a sports ball inflator needle to shop air, that would be almost perfect.

Really tight fitting shims are the bugaboo, it's near impossible to get an even, non-binding "lift" from any sort of tool that tries to lever them out of the top of the bucket. That's where the eveness of an air shot should help!

Although as Chris Obert noted in his tech tip http://www.fiatplus.com/members/valveadj.htm , that's also a good way to "disburse" a fine spray of oil all over you and the engine compartment unless you take care to smother the point of attack with shop rags:)
 
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I second this. I haven't used a pick/screwdriver since Eric showed me this method. WAY easier.

I used small picks and screwdrivers for years as well until I found out a small amount of compressed air pops the shim right out. Give it a try, you will be very happy with the results.

By the way, great writeup!
 
I use compressed air to remove the shim, that is the method recomended be Fiat and makes it realy easy. Just aim at the bottom of the shim and it flys away.
 
Very nice.

I tried contacting the tool maker you listed some time ago, and have not heard a peep :(

I'm now at the point where I have to get the valves adjusted ASAP, so looks like I'll have to make my own tool. I tried these variants from my local machine shop

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Any chance you can trace the outline of the tool & post it with dimensions? If so, the width of the head, and the depth of the shoulders/center spine would also be very helpful.I'm going to cut up the Volvo hook tool I have intended for the old red block's valve adjustment.
 
I orderder Beta-Tools valve depressor 1468/N3, but I don't know how well it will work with Fiat Sohc-engine.

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Report about Beta-tools 1468/N3 adn Lampredi Sohc will follow when I get the tool in my hands...
 
Super old thread, I know, but it seemed like the best pace to put my question. After nearly 40 years of working on X1/9s, I've never had this issue and I'm almost at wits end. I have one valve shim that will not come out of the bucket. No amount of prying (already snapped one of my favorite picks) or air blasts are popping the shim out. All the others popped out with some prying with a pick and/or blasting with air, exactly how I've done it for 38 years.

Anyone have any tricks on how to get this stuck one out? I can pry it up a little, but then it seems to jam I the bucket.
 
Super old thread, I know, but it seemed like the best pace to put my question. After nearly 40 years of working on X1/9s, I've never had this issue and I'm almost at wits end. I have one valve shim that will not come out of the bucket. No amount of prying (already snapped one of my favorite picks) or air blasts are popping the shim out. All the others popped out with some prying with a pick and/or blasting with air, exactly how I've done it for 38 years.

Anyone have any tricks on how to get this stuck one out? I can pry it up a little, but then it seems to jam I the bucket.
reseat the shim and turn the engine by hand one revolution of the camshaft and then try again.
 
Sometimes they do jam in the bucket, at which point you need to pull the cam tower off. Kind of a pita but if you are careful it should go back down just fine. Worst case, new gasket and double check the measurements on all of it.
 
I use a "reconfigured" tweezer to pop out shims.

Valve adjusting tools.jpg


There are two gaps in the ridge around the top of the tappet (180 degrees apart) where I can stick my tweezers in and pop it out.

Tappet depressed, shim popped out with tweezer.jpg
 
Got it out. I took inspiration from above and took a file to a slim flat screwdriver so it would fit in the bucket 'slot'. This allowed me to apply enough force to pop it shim out. It was actually a 'twist' of the screwdriver more than using it like a pry bar. This screwdriver now lives with my valve shim kit.

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