Bleeding new aluminum radiator...

petex19

petex19

True Classic
I installed my new gorgeous aluminum radiator but unlike the original, the new rad has a 17mm bolt instead of the allen key bleeder.

I was just curious if the process to bleed the new rad is the same. Do I just loosen the 17mm bolt or do I remove it, fill the overflow bottle on level ground until all air leaves and fluid starts coming out of the bleeder hole and then re-install the 17mm bolt.

With the original rad I used to just loosen the allen key bleeder.

'PeteX1/9
 
not that i'd know but i'd imagine it's the same, car warm but not hot, heater control valve open, engine running of course, cap off the reservoir, drive and repeat (being careful of pressure of course)
 
What I did so far...

I haven't put mine in yet, but I did swap the allen-head bleeder bolt over to the new radiator from my spare. I would recommend you do the same. The threads are the same on the new radiator. :)
 
Pete, only a PROFESSIONAL should attempt...

bleeding such a radiator.

As a favor to you... if you send it down to me (I'll pay postage...) I'll bleed it professionally and even double my usual 6 month pressure/endurance test.

No thanks needed... yur a good friend! PM me for my address...

(HA! I don't see why you can't just "crack" that 17mm bleed bolt and vent it like any other radiator. You may want to remove it altogether and install some other peacock or... even "plumb" the vent to a more convenient location and then add a new peacock. I remember some others here writing about that purge valve in the original thread. You might go there and re-read it as well...)
 
Hey Jeff does car have to be running to properly bleed cooling system? Just asking because I've never done it this way, it makes sense as water pump pushes coolant through the system and air too. just wondering if you can do it with engine off, my reason for asking is I haven't solvent my overheating issue, been too bloody cold to work on it!
 
I don't think it has to be running but if there's air trapped somewhere it will stay there until you drive and heat stuff up, the T'stat opens and things start to move, then the bubble moves and potentially causes erratic heating/cooling as it does, you can burp it without running and stone cold, then drive a bit and do it again I'm told, I think a lot of guys do it this way and eventually the air goes away. I had a coolant loss a few months ago and had sudden heat and cold running until I burped it out.
 
I already installed the rad yesterday and did transfer over everything mentioned except for the allen key bleeder and not sure what is meant by the plug behind the thermoswitch and the bleeder?

I switched over the thermoswitch and didn't notice anything when I removed the bolt in its place?

I should hopefully still be able to switch over the bleeder and pull the thermoswitch back off to check for a plug as I haven't replaced the drained coolant.

'PeteX1/9
 
plug mentioned twice

Hi Pete,

Bob uses the word "plug" twice in the post and with two different meanings.

The first mention is above the first picture. He is talking about transferring the bleeder and temp switch. Here he uses the word plug in reference to the bolts threaded into the bleeder and temp switch holes to prevent anything from getting in during transit. So you shouldn't need to pull your switch again, you removed the plug and replaced it with your switch.

Later in the post he talks about the electrical plug for the fans and that he has included an adapter if anyone needs it to match their existing wiring.

So other than swapping in the bleeder if you want to (probably a good idea for the long run), you are in good shape with the work you have already done..
 
17mm bleeder??? Hu?
My only concern about mine is my bleeder is above the hole now, where before I could put the rubber plug on. It might hit the targa top when it goes in, don't know haven't tried it. Does anyone else have the same deal?

John
 
Pete....

You are supposed to take the original bleed screw from your old radiator and install it in the same spot on the new one. The plug was just there to protect stuff from getting into the radiator during shipping. As Jim D said.
 
Not in mine.

On mine the original bleeder I had fits the same as the old radiator did. The dimensions on the radiators are pretty much the same so there should be no difference.

I have seen a few different bleeders overe the years, but the other one I saw was real short. I have a few I will try and dig one up and post a picture.
 
Seriously Dom, Jeff and Pete...

The engine needs to be at temperature so the T-stat opens and sends coolant to the radiator under PRESSURE, as well as temperature.

With the engine off and cool, there will be no pressure/temperature to push out the air at the top of the radiator.

I suggest going about this in one of two ways.

1. Find a way to open and close the bleeder without burning yourself. Gloves, wrench, rags whatever. Then approach this somewhat like bleeding brakes, let it build up some pressure (you can tell this by lifting the lever on the reservoir cap, or twist a standard cap) and open and close the bleeder letting air escape. Repeat this a few times until you get nothing but coolant.

2. Install a Flush-Tee in the upper heater hose near the cam box... and pressurize the system with a garden hose. I force WATER through the system and out the reservoir for a few minutes, usually while the engine is at temperature and the hose under a little pressure, with high pressure stabs at intervals so the stat does not shut. Then I drain the reservoir and fill with 1 gallon of coolant. That works well for me in this hot climate... I don't know or have an immediate solution for adding more using this method.

HTH...
 
This forum ROCKS and so does the members thanks guys, will try this! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I would park the car facing up hill on an incline to have the bleeder at the highest point and run it so the radiator fan runs at least once. Be sure to have the heater on full hot to cycle coolant through it and hopefully get all the air out of that subsystem.

With the engine running (and after the fan has shut off) open the bleeder until all the air is out, close it and then go for a drive, park on the hill again and repeat.

Once it cools off, top off the radiator then drive around for a few days. On a day where you have it fully warmed up park on a hill again and open the bleeder again to get any residual air out of the system.
 
If you remove the bleed screw on thermostat housing and loosen the radiator bleeder all the air will easily bleed out with the car stone cold and on flat ground. Apparently not all cars have a bleeder on thermostat housing.
 
kmead said:
I would park the car facing up hill on an incline to have the bleeder at the highest point and run it so the radiator fan runs at least once.
Click to expand...
Level or facing down hill is better. You want the radiator bleed screw to be below the coolant level in the reservoir, or you risk pulling air into the radiator instead of bleeding it out.
 
I run the car to temp, then rev it to 2K. Open bleeder between fan cyclings. Never fails to bleed correctly. Just like a Vanagon! :innocent:
 
Can you elaborate on this method? My X does have the thermostat bleeder screw. So do you add coolant until it starts coming out of the thermostat bleeder and the rad bleeder. Then re-install the thermo. bleeder and tighten the rad bleeder?

'PeteX1/9
 
It shouldn't introduce any air as the system is under pressure from the reservoir and you are evacuating compressed air in the radiator from the system. I only open the bleeder enough to let air out and a small amount of coolant each time. Being under pressure the air is very happy to get out.

ng_randolph said:
Level or facing down hill is better. You want the radiator bleed screw to be below the coolant level in the reservoir, or you risk pulling air into the radiator instead of bleeding it out.
Click to expand...
 
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