KY Hillbilly Ingenuity

Red Bull 78

True Classic
Dr's Orders, I don't "Lift" over 20lbs until I see the Neurologist on Thurs, but I had to do an Emergency Brake pad replacement on the old Corolla "beater". Managed to break all 4 studs off after the shop that mounted my last set of tires, must have used OEM Specs on 22 year old, who knows how many tire changes in 447,xxx miles, STUDS. I rolled the car off the Jack stand jumping on my 30" breaker bar, trying to break the 137 ft lb Axle Nut loose. OK, now it's down and can't move on me. I look around my buddy's garage and there it is

The old steel pipe Clothesline Post I was gonna throw away but he ask me to keep it in case "he" needed it. I didn't want that rusty POS anywhere near The Bull, but the only thing it could do to "The Corodda" was break some glass.
 
Dr's Orders, I don't "Lift" over 20lbs until I see the Neurologist on Thurs, but I had to do an Emergency Brake pad replacement on the old Corolla "beater". Managed to break all 4 studs off after the shop that mounted my last set of tires, must have used OEM Specs on 22 year old, who knows how many tire changes in 447,xxx miles, STUDS. I rolled the car off the Jack stand jumping on my 30" breaker bar, trying to break the 137 ft lb Axle Nut loose. OK, now it's down and can't move on me. I look around my buddy's garage and there it is

The old steel pipe Clothesline Post I was gonna throw away but he ask me to keep it in case "he" needed it. I didn't want that rusty POS anywhere near The Bull, but the only thing it could do to "The Corodda" was break some glass.
That cheater bar looks close to twenty pounds. Don't over do it. I am kind of tenacious when it come to stuff like that too so do as I say and not as I do.
 
Disaster waiting to happen.. Don't do this.. just don't...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CW4UqEjbLg


*1/2" drive tool will likely bend and bust when subjected that amount of force. 1/2" drive is likely going to bust resulting a serious injury much above 400 ft/lb.. Regardless of tool brand.

If more twisting force is required, use 3/4" drive or 1" drive. It WILL work MUCH better and the risk of tool failure is much reduced. And..the cost is equal or less than 1/2" drive stuff.

The better alternative tool would be a 3/4" or larger drive impact wrench with enough air compressor to power it.

A 3/4" or lager Swench (manual impact).

3/4" or larger torque multiplier.

****Give that threaded fastener a good and very, very long soaking with PB blaster, Acetone & ATT or similar before applying removal force. It is likely stuck due to rust/corrosion within the threads or outer areas of the joint. The amount of added friction due to this rust/corrosion can be fierce requiring many, many times more force to remove it than what was initially applied.


Stuff like this is asking for a serious injury to happen.


Bernice

Dr's Orders, I don't "Lift" over 20lbs until I see the Neurologist on Thurs, but I had to do an Emergency Brake pad replacement on the old Corolla "beater". Managed to break all 4 studs off after the shop that mounted my last set of tires, must have used OEM Specs on 22 year old, who knows how many tire changes in 447,xxx miles, STUDS. I rolled the car off the Jack stand jumping on my 30" breaker bar, trying to break the 137 ft lb Axle Nut loose. OK, now it's down and can't move on me. I look around my buddy's garage and there it is

The old steel pipe Clothesline Post I was gonna throw away but he ask me to keep it in case "he" needed it. I didn't want that rusty POS anywhere near The Bull, but the only thing it could do to "The Corodda" was break some glass.
 
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That was my thought too Les...

My son bought a stupid Ford Fiesta some time ago and it was a horrific mix or SAE and Metric bolts.

When it came to axle nuts... three were RH and one was LH. They PRIDED themselves in using parts from a dozen different countries... with apparently no standardization.

That RF axle nut on the VW would be a perfect candidate for LH threads!
 
All STD Right Hand Threads

I've Done brake jobs and rotated the tires on it many times, before I bought these used tires and had them installed. They just torqued the old bolts way too tight.
 
In This case

Disaster waiting to happen.. Don't do this.. just don't...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CW4UqEjbLg

Bernice

Just like the VW guy, buy keeping the end of the "Cheater" pipe next to the Pivot point, the smaller breaker bar in contained within the pipe. If the Socket/Drive parts fail, that end of the pipe will just fall to the ground.

Now if you're using a shorter "cheater" pipe and move it more than half way up the actual Breaker Bar and something breaks under that Torque you will definitely have a UFO (Uncontrolled Flying Object) to deal with.

In my formative years, I was a 150 lb Commercial Tire Serviceman (none of this "Tech" shyt). I learned early on the proper application of Leverage. Like Archimedes said, "Give me a long enough lever and a Fulcrum to rest it on and I can move the world." Or was that De Vinci?:excited:
 
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