Battery Drained

bensonbe

bensonbe

True Classic
I had to park my X for three weeks due to me severely spraining my left foot. Today I went to drive the car and the battery was dead had 2.4 volts on my meeter. I have done the BWM and its a new battery. I do not have the digital clock so that is not a drain. I have a 4 gauge new ground at the battery and a 6 gauge ground from the transmission to the chassis. I am going to buy a battery tender. Will that help? Is there anything I can check there has to be a ground somewhere I assuming:mallet: When I drove it last had no starting problems and no shutting off. Thoughts?

Brian
 
Put a current meter between

the positive battery terminal and the cable that attaches to it.
Watch it as you start pulling fuses.
Identify the circuit that's draining your battery.
:2c:
 
Will give it a try

Bob,

Thanks do I keep my meeter on the volts? Or is the meeter different than my volt meeter. Thanks for everything.

Brian
 
Put the meter on AMPS

I would begin with 10 amps. Move to 1 amp if the meter barely moves.

WARNING: Do NOT attempt to start the car with this setup. It will likely damage the meter.
 
bensonbe said:
I had to park my X for three weeks due to me severely spraining my left foot. Today I went to drive the car and the battery was dead had 2.4 volts on my meeter. I have done the BWM and its a new battery. I do not have the digital clock so that is not a drain. I have a 4 gauge new ground at the battery and a 6 gauge ground from the transmission to the chassis. I am going to buy a battery tender. Will that help? Is there anything I can check there has to be a ground somewhere I assuming:mallet: When I drove it last had no starting problems and no shutting off. Thoughts?

Brian
Click to expand...

At 2.4 volts it is a good bet that that battery is toast. You should have different battery that you are sure holds a good charge before you start on Bob's testing directions.
 
But its Brand new

The battery is brand new I am charging it up now and will see tomorrow how it goes.
 
bensonbe said:
The battery is brand new I am charging it up now and will see tomorrow how it goes.
Click to expand...

It has been my experience that a battery discharged to that point usually develops problems. 2.4 volts divided by six cells equals .4 volts per cell. A new battery in top shape holds around 2.2 volts per cell equaling 13.2 volts. 1.7 volts per cell or 10.2 volts is considered 100% discharge. Anything below that can damage plates. It is possible that a slow discharge might not be as bad as a fast discharge but I would not trust that battery any more. I have read that when a lead battery is drug down far enough it can reveres polarity. With all that said I hope you experience a battery miracle and your battery bounces back with no problems. After you get a full charge let it set for an hour or so then check the voltage. It should be no less than 12 volts but ideally 12.5 volts . Let it set 24 hours and check again. There should still be at least 12 volts showing. You might want to also put a load test on it. Parts stores usually have a meter for that and it is usually free.
 
It Charged

I did a slow charge and it is currently sitting at 12.5V. I think I am going to get a trickle charger until I find the circuit draining the battery.
 
bensonbe said:
I did a slow charge and it is currently sitting at 12.5V. I think I am going to get a trickle charger until I find the circuit draining the battery.
Click to expand...
How long did you let it "rest" before you tested it? It needs ot sit without a load or charger applied for a few hours to get a true reading.
 
bensonbe said:
I let it sit for 4 hours before I got the reading of 12.5
Click to expand...

That sounds promising. Did you do a 24 hour test? It should still be close to the 12.5 volts. Take a voltage reading then undo the coil wire and crank the engine for a few turns with the meter hooked to the battery. See how far down it drags then let sit for a few minutes and see how close the voltage comes back to the first reading before cranking. If you had 12.5 and cranked the engine the voltage should come back close to the 12.5 with in two or three minutes.
 
dragonsgate said:
That sounds promising. Did you do a 24 hour test? It should still be close to the 12.5 volts. Take a voltage reading then undo the coil wire and crank the engine for a few turns with the meter hooked to the battery. See how far down it drags then let sit for a few minutes and see how close the voltage comes back to the first reading before cranking. If you had 12.5 and cranked the engine the voltage should come back close to the 12.5 with in two or three minutes.
Click to expand...

I will try.
 
Last year I had a new battery that started giving problems in the first few months. All I have that draws any juice when the car is setting is the clock. The battery would show a full charge after a drive but the next morning after about 20 hours the battery would show a little over 10 volts and would not have enough poop to click over the solenoid on to the pre charge resistor. I at first thought something was draining the battery or the charge system was not putting out enough. Finally I took it back to the store and the battery tested bad. I replaced it under warranty with the same type battery and for almost six months now I have had no problems. Maybe you just have a bad battery from the start.
 
Ben, I tend to agree with Dragon... .4 volts/cell is really...

down low or DEAD.

I'm surprised it recharged.

Before you go looking for the drain... What does the battery read once the engine is started and the alternator is charging? Should be about 13.6 to 14.1 volts.

Also... unless there is something really draining that battery (TBD as Bob said...) there is no reason that battery should sink so low.

I have a load tester from Harbor Freight and that really helps me determine at home if a battery is good or not. Your local parts store can do the same OR... Install a VOM on the battery and place it face down on the windshield. Remove the coil wire so the engine will not start and then spin the starter for about 30 seconds watching the VOM from inside the car. It should drop from 12.6v to no lower than about 10.5v. If it does, it is probably shorted internally and no longer any good.

HTH and your leg gets better as well...
 
After 36 Hours

After 36hours the battery read 12.57 So it is holding a charge I am wondering if my reading of 2v was incorrect. I am going to take it for a drive tomorrow.:jedi:
 
bensonbe said:
After 36hours the battery read 12.57 So it is holding a charge I am wondering if my reading of 2v was incorrect. I am going to take it for a drive tomorrow.:jedi:
Click to expand...

It is possible you had the meter on the wrong setting or the meter battery is week or you simply misread it. At any rate the 36 hour reading is promising. Just park facing down hill for the next few weeks just incase.
 
Well, BEFORE you drive very far... check the voltage...

with the engine running. You wanna see about 13.7 - 14.2 at the battery with the charge light off.
 
I Read ...

I had 13.57 at idle. I took it out for an hour. When I shut off the car my battery read 12.9v
 
Well... it seems to be charging and holding adn all better!

I have a couple of small trickle chargers I use occasionally but my '69 Vette has a clock that just sucks... and I mean drains the battery sometimes in a matter of days. I spent quite some time researching and proving the only drain was from the clock and then again the ned CD player to keep its options.

ANYWAY, I said all that to simply say I permanently wired a pig-tail to ground and my alternator post so that when I pull into the garage, I just plug the tender in and forget about it! I haven't done the same to my X yet as I rarely have the need. Something for you to chew on though!
 
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