Clutch near floor?
- Thread starter barefoot
- Start date
Check the play between the rod and the lever arm at the slave end (should be only a few mm), check for a kink or blockage in the soft line between reservoir and master, check to see how much the rod moves at the slave end in a full stroke of the pedal (should be somewhere north of one inch), check to be sure that a full stroke of the pedal is properly engaging the piston at the master. Be sure that you've gotten all the air out of the system, and confirm (you'll need to instal a speedbleeder on the slave or get a helper and do the two-person bleed thing) that you can actually pump fluid from the reservoir out through the slave bleeder.
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
As Eric said, PLUS...
Make sure you have a minimum of 1 1/4 inch of throw on the clutch lever.
If so, then I would suspect something awry with the clutch pressure plate.
BUT... this is a last resort as in:
If the clutch was not slipping or making noise BEFORE you changed out the hydraulics, I would suspect you had a loss of fluid THEN... and NOW, you still haven't gotten all the air out of the system yet. THE PROOF is in the amount of the THROW as I mentioned above.
Hope I'm right... and hope this helps!
Make sure you have a minimum of 1 1/4 inch of throw on the clutch lever.
If so, then I would suspect something awry with the clutch pressure plate.
BUT... this is a last resort as in:
If the clutch was not slipping or making noise BEFORE you changed out the hydraulics, I would suspect you had a loss of fluid THEN... and NOW, you still haven't gotten all the air out of the system yet. THE PROOF is in the amount of the THROW as I mentioned above.
Hope I'm right... and hope this helps!
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Hmmmm... I see... I just wrote something else...
dated today and timed at 3:10 PST and I believe you need to read and do that FIRST.
But I will define here and hopefully answer the questions you asked.
1. Speed-Bleeder - Is a device that replaces your standard "bleeder" so that only one person is needed to bleed the system without requiring a SECOND person... who tells you to "pump 3 times and hold". The second person will need to unscrew the bleeder valve on the Slave Cylinder and allow the air to escape... and then tighten the bleeder again before air has a chance to come back in. These roles can be reversed... and if the pedal sinks to the floor in this process, its best for the pumper to use their hands knelling beside the car until there is some pressure built up and the pedal returns.
Here's a link and some pictures of Speed Bleeders (Google is YOUR friend too!)
https://www.google.com/search?q=spe...rg.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=shop
Many folks SWEAR by these and also install them on all four brake calipers as well.
2. Two Person Bleed - As described above and I think the better method, especially with the inherent problems presented in the design. I suggest that you first bleed the MASTER CYLINDER line as it leaves the cylinder... using a third hand or a friend. Then have the friend pump 3 times and hold while you loosen the BANJO BOLT on the SLAVE and get all the air out there. Lastly, loosen the BLEEDER on the SLAVE itself and purge it there. You may need to do this process a couple of times, maybe 4 or 5 at the slave.
There are some other methods as well...
3. Gravity - Loosen the Banjo Bolt on the slave and allow it to drip slowly overnight... catching the drips in a cup or bowl. Check a few times to insure the reservoir it full. The next morning... Do the TWO person method at the SLAVE only.
4. Pressure - Using a bike pump or compressor or a pressurized tank, pressurize the reservoir by drilling a hole and inserting a "Schrader Valve" in the cap ( https://www.google.com/search?q=sch...gHIW3oQTu04KQDg&ved=0CDEQsAQ&biw=1440&bih=753 ) or even using a basketball inflation needle and add pressure to the system. NO MORE THAN TEN (10) POUNDS... lest you blow off the fill hose or split the reservoir. Then you can bleed the system all by yourself.
5. Vacuum - As the name implies, affix a hose to the bleeder on the SLAVE, loosen it and suck. I strongly suggest using a pump of sorts though... kinda like these... ( http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=vacuum+pump ) When you have nothing but fluid coming out... tighten the bleeder valve. Many folks like this method as well as there is little danger in breaking anything.
BTW... I once used my 7 year old granddaughter as a "pumper". She's 20 now and is reluctant to come over anymore... HA!
Good luck... HTH...
dated today and timed at 3:10 PST and I believe you need to read and do that FIRST.
But I will define here and hopefully answer the questions you asked.
1. Speed-Bleeder - Is a device that replaces your standard "bleeder" so that only one person is needed to bleed the system without requiring a SECOND person... who tells you to "pump 3 times and hold". The second person will need to unscrew the bleeder valve on the Slave Cylinder and allow the air to escape... and then tighten the bleeder again before air has a chance to come back in. These roles can be reversed... and if the pedal sinks to the floor in this process, its best for the pumper to use their hands knelling beside the car until there is some pressure built up and the pedal returns.
Here's a link and some pictures of Speed Bleeders (Google is YOUR friend too!)
https://www.google.com/search?q=spe...rg.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=shop
Many folks SWEAR by these and also install them on all four brake calipers as well.
2. Two Person Bleed - As described above and I think the better method, especially with the inherent problems presented in the design. I suggest that you first bleed the MASTER CYLINDER line as it leaves the cylinder... using a third hand or a friend. Then have the friend pump 3 times and hold while you loosen the BANJO BOLT on the SLAVE and get all the air out there. Lastly, loosen the BLEEDER on the SLAVE itself and purge it there. You may need to do this process a couple of times, maybe 4 or 5 at the slave.
There are some other methods as well...
3. Gravity - Loosen the Banjo Bolt on the slave and allow it to drip slowly overnight... catching the drips in a cup or bowl. Check a few times to insure the reservoir it full. The next morning... Do the TWO person method at the SLAVE only.
4. Pressure - Using a bike pump or compressor or a pressurized tank, pressurize the reservoir by drilling a hole and inserting a "Schrader Valve" in the cap ( https://www.google.com/search?q=sch...gHIW3oQTu04KQDg&ved=0CDEQsAQ&biw=1440&bih=753 ) or even using a basketball inflation needle and add pressure to the system. NO MORE THAN TEN (10) POUNDS... lest you blow off the fill hose or split the reservoir. Then you can bleed the system all by yourself.
5. Vacuum - As the name implies, affix a hose to the bleeder on the SLAVE, loosen it and suck. I strongly suggest using a pump of sorts though... kinda like these... ( http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=vacuum+pump ) When you have nothing but fluid coming out... tighten the bleeder valve. Many folks like this method as well as there is little danger in breaking anything.
BTW... I once used my 7 year old granddaughter as a "pumper". She's 20 now and is reluctant to come over anymore... HA!
Good luck... HTH...
Last edited:
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Yur welcome... See my 3:45 post as well as I corrected...
a few things... and let us know what method worked best for you... or if you are still having problems.
a few things... and let us know what method worked best for you... or if you are still having problems.