Miata Chassis Alignment..

Rupunzell

Bernice Loui
Similar but related.

The 96' NA miata got put up on the chassis set up rig. Learned much about the Miata's chassis and suspension.
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This project began with making and installing anti-roll bar links.
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To replace the wore out stock links.
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The anti-roll bar links installed:
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One discovery, the stock Miata anti-roll bar mounts are prone to failure due to insufficient rigidity and cyclic metal fatigue over load cycles and time. So, this bar and support blocks were made to aid in this design problem.
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Bar and block installed;
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How does the NA Miata chassis compare to the exxe chassis ?
They are different with a different set of problems and design goals.

The Miata is a front engine chassis with double A-arms front and rear, the exxe is mid-engine, lower A-arms with struts. One might believe double A-arms all around would be superior to the struts.. This is just not true. They are a different set of trade offs.

The weight is higher in the Miata by a few hundred pounds. It does have a more modern motor giving it more power than the exxe.

The front engine layout results in the CG near or at the steering wheel (which does not agree with me at all as to the feel of this chassis). The exxe with it's mid-engine layout has it's CG at or very near the driver's lower back. Why does this matter, human beings center of balance is located at the lower back. This is how human beings sense balance to stand and do stuff while moving. If the CG is placed at that location in a chassis, the driver can sense the balance of the chassis much better than having the CG at the driver's hands.

Being a front engine chassis, nose heavy, it will have inherently understeer or the front end loosing grip before the rear end, opposite of the exxe.

After much tweaking and adjusting of the threaded spring collars. The Miata ended up with these corner weight values;
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Overly lowered Miata's are very common. This fashion fad puts the suspension's roll center below ground causing the tires to dig and reduce grip. The most one can lower a Miata is about 2" or so.. even that is pushing it with significantly reduced suspension travel. Also, the Miata's suspension has just under 2" of good, controlled suspension range. More reasons to limit's it suspension travel to keep the tires happy and grippy. Not too different than the exxe in this regard.

Knowing this, the rest of the chassis alignment values became apparent. To achieve a more neutral steering chassis, the grip at the rear needs to be reduced slightly to balance out the higher grip at the front. This means reducing the camber at the rear by 1/2 degree or so at the rear relative to the front. On the exxe, the rear is often set up with more camber at the rear and less camber at the front.

Before adjusting camber, basic toe front and rear is set to near zero. This is important as every chassis alignment adjustment with the A-arm eccentrics interacts with the others, camber affects toe, toe affects camber.. affects castor and ride height and... All this makes setting up a Miata chassis time consuming and not for the un-informed.

Image of the front corner.
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Image of the rear corner.
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Accuracy of chassis alignment settings needs to be less than 1mm, 0.2 degree on a level surface. This means no tires on the chassis as the alignment is adjusted as tires will not allow the chassis components to move with ease as chassis adjusters are adjusted and changed. This is why hub stands are used. Added to this, the hub stands should be equal in height to the loaded wheel and tire with the point of force equal to the load center of the wheel. This set up is low friction, push the car on this set up too hard and it will roll off the pads with ease.

After much futzing and tweaking, the desired values were achieved.

Front:

* Zero toe.
* 2.2 degrees negative camber.
* About 4.5 degrees positive caster (as much as the adjuster will allow).


Rear:

* 2mm toe in.
*1.7 degrees negative camber.

Cross weights ended up at 49.9% or as good as possible given the as delivered weight distribution.

These alignment values are the opposite of how one would set up a exxe chassis with exception of the cross weight needing to be at or very near 50%.

The results were a much more responsive Miata and much closer to having neutral cornering behavior. More will be learned after it's track day with these settings.

At some point, removing the anti-roll bars and replacing them with higher rate springs front and rear needs to be tried.

At the end of this day, my preference remains the exxe for a host of reasons.


Bernice
 
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I've said it once...

...and I'll say it again,
Where does she get all those wonderful toys? :grin:

OK Bernice,

Next time we see you doing an alignment, I expect to see lasers ! ! :excited:
 
The hub stands and string rod set up were designed an built by .. me in the shop.

The corner weight scales are an off the shelf racer item (these have a rather special historical significance directly related to Xweb).

Leveling pads are made and sold by an ebay seller.

The toys are OK, what matters much more is the knowledge and ability to use this stuff to get the most from them and understand the limitations involved with any of this kind of stuff.

Very possible in the near future there will be a Ralt RT and Lola S2000 on this same rig.

These strings are actually more accurate than the common laser due to the smaller indicator size. The fishing line used is not more than 0.007" in diameter, laser pointer spot size is typically 10 to 20 times larger making fine resolution much more difficult. These and more are why race teams including many F1 teams still use string.

Kinda pointless to try putting the SAAB (s) on this rig as they are only front toe adjustable and if something is outa whack, something is bent or wore out. Beyond that, SAABs are not this kinda car.



Bernice


...and I'll say it again,
Where does she get all those wonderful toys? :grin:

OK Bernice,

Next time we see you doing an alignment, I expect to see lasers ! ! :excited:
 
Very informative.
Would be great to read, with specific x1/9 info, when you do something similar with your '74.
 
I might have posted these two videos before...


This video shows a stamped Miata sway bar mount flexing like crazy... you can see why they have been known to eventually fatigue and tear off with sticky tires and heavier bars.

http://youtu.be/CQG5aUrhpew


And the next video show the same sway bar mount with a racing beat backing support helping it hold still!!! The removed under tray liner makes it easier to see everything in this video.

http://youtu.be/3deivrLzxmo
 
At some point, might run an experiment to remove both front and rear anti-roll bars on the Miata and up the spring rates to make up for the difference in roll stiffness.

This is not as easy to do on the Miata as on the exxe. The Miata has what is effectively a lever on the spring-damper assembly. This reduces the front spring rate about 0.66x, rear 0.72 or a 1,000 lb/in spring results in a 660 lb/in rate at the wheel. This lever effect also reduces damper travel and effective damper velocity. This makes much greater demands on dampers on the Miata. This is also the reason why Miata's corner on the bump stops to limit body roll under cornering, damper quality sensitive and the need for BIG anti-roll bars.

Different requirements than the exxe in many ways and some reasons why double A arm suspension are not the cure-all over struts.


Bernice

I might have posted these two videos before...


This video shows a stamped Miata sway bar mount flexing like crazy... you can see why they have been known to eventually fatigue and tear off with sticky tires and heavier bars.

http://youtu.be/CQG5aUrhpew


And the next video show the same sway bar mount with a racing beat backing support helping it hold still!!! The removed under tray liner makes it easier to see everything in this video.

http://youtu.be/3deivrLzxmo
 
Cornering on bump stops

Hi Bernice,

I have watched most of the Fat Cat Motorsports videos on Youtube and have wondered if on the X, the bump stops ever come into play under hard cornering on a stock car.
Do you know?

Also, should an X running a coil over suspension be set up to run on its bump stops?
Or is this a Miata-specific thing?
 
Very rough estimation.

Spring rate of the exxe about 150 lb/in, about 6 inches of total wheel travel. Springs compress about 3 inches with about 500 pounds at the corner. For a 1G turn, rough estimate of 500 pounds extra on a corner or just over 3 inches of extra wheel travel required to support the transferred weight.

In the real world as originally delivered with 145/80/13 tires on 4.5" wide rims, the tires and all related would not allow a 1G which prevent the bump stops from contacting the strut stop.

In the Miata's case, the effective spring rate at the wheel is about 110 lb/in and it is heavier. The Miata uses A-arms all around with essentially a lever for the springs to operate on. The Miata has less wheel travel than the exxe. With the wheel spring rate lower than the exxe, more overall weight and less wheel travel, the Miata corners on it's bumps stops out of necessity due to the trade-offs made for soft ride, body roll and weight transfer in higher G corners.

This does not mean one cannot corner the exxe on bump stops. Racer folks have been doing precisely this for decades by altering the bump stop cone shape and length to effectively create a variable rate spring. It works, surprisingly well.

Most modern real race car chassis have push/pull rod suspensions and a rocker working a bell-crank levered arm which produces an arc to effectively result in variable rate spring at the wheel. The race folks have been doing this for quite a while now.

It is extremely easy to get overly caught up and wrapped up in suspension stuff from suspension geometry, spring rated, damper rates, suspension frequency and all that. Setting all that aside, what really matters is happy tires. The job and function of the suspension and chassis is to keep those four rubber dough-nuts happy with their contact patch properly planted on the ground.

Once the idea an notion that it is up to the suspension's job to keep those tires happy, why altering spring rate, ride height changes, damper changes, spring rate changes, geometry changes and all related makes more sense.

Last track test day on the LeMons racer allowed us to test various suspension settings and measure tire temperatures all around. Once all four tires were operating at about 150 degrees hot with no more than 10 degrees variation edge to edge, the LeMons chassis worked pretty well complete with happy driver. Notable, the LeMons racer runs 550 lb/in front and 500 lb/in rear spring rates on 1750 pounds worth of LeMons racer... about 200 Bhp.


Trivia on the Lancia Stratos. The chassis was made in two versions, one version had double A-arms, the other had struts. The double A-arm versions was used on stages where it had mostly paved roads as the double A-arm suspension had better camber curves and more for limited wheel travel requirements that kept those Pirelli P7's happy. On stages that had more gravel and off roads sections, snow-ice the strut chassis was used as it offered greater wheel travel and better damper control. This is a lesser known detail about Stratos. The folks at Lancia (Dallara, Puleo chassis designer for the x1/9 and the crew) understood well the advantages and dis-advantages of each suspension design and used what worked best for a given requirement.

Also worth noting is Shaikh Ahmad head cat at Fat Cat Motorsports has also discovered that high spring rates with proper dampers and no anti-roll bars (stability bars) works well on the Miata chassis. Something Steve H has been doing for a while now along with many others in the motor sport industry.



Bernice

Hi Bernice,

I have watched most of the Fat Cat Motorsports videos on Youtube and have wondered if on the X, the bump stops ever come into play under hard cornering on a stock car.
Do you know?

Also, should an X running a coil over suspension be set up to run on its bump stops?
Or is this a Miata-specific thing?
 
Thanks Bernice,
this is sort of what I expected, I was thrown off a bit though because Shaikh presented the topic as if it was the most normal thing in the world that a car corners on its bump stops.

For a race X, things can be kept simple up to a point, make the suspension stiff enough to limit drastic camber changes and keep it off the bump stops.

For a street driven car, keeping it off the bump stops is a safe bet. I wonder if a dual purpose suspension could benefit from proper bump stop engineering. Lots of work though and quite a number of variables to consider.
 
Using bump stops to aid spring rate is complex and degrades over time as the compliant material breaks down, degrades and falls apart. While this approach works well, it is not the most stable over time.

Keep in mind Shaikh is very Miata centric and the FCM bump stops are primarily oriented for stock Miatas that can really benefit from these.

More than just camber changes with suspension travel, toe, damping, spring rate and more are variable with suspension travel. With this in mind, the current crop of off road racers are quite amazing in the amount of wheel travel the have achieved ( often 2 feet or more) with reasonable suspension geometry. This requires very long suspension elements, excellent damping (King shocks make 3" dia dampers specifically designed for off road racing) and modest yet mostly constant spring rates over suspension travel.

There are no ideal suspension/chassis for all conditions, there are reasonable trade offs for a specific set of requirements.


Bernice


Thanks Bernice,
this is sort of what I expected, I was thrown off a bit though because Shaikh presented the topic as if it was the most normal thing in the world that a car corners on its bump stops.

For a race X, things can be kept simple up to a point, make the suspension stiff enough to limit drastic camber changes and keep it off the bump stops.

For a street driven car, keeping it off the bump stops is a safe bet. I wonder if a dual purpose suspension could benefit from proper bump stop engineering. Lots of work though and quite a number of variables to consider.
 
How does the NA Miata chassis compare to the exxe chassis ?

How is the chassis stiffness? A friend's Miata spent a few months hanging around in the shop last summer, and you couldn't open the doors when it was on the lift.
 
Chassis rigidity of the Miata NA & NB, Poor. This is one of THE prime difficulties with trying to get a Miata to perform well. Yes, it is a convertible, yes it was never intended to be anything more than it's initial design, except many have decided to use this platform for everything from Spec Miata racing, to customized bodies to V8 conversions (which required significant improvements to it's chassis).

The poor chassis rigidity results in suspension geometry problems, ride problems and all the usual things that come with a soggy noodle of a chassis.

One of the best improvements any Miata NA, NB owner can do is to add as much chassis rigidity aids as reasonable.

In comparison, the exxe needs little if any chassis rigidity aids for most all power and suspension improvements. This fact is what makes the exxe such a good chassis to modify into a much higher performance motor vehicle.


"oh, and let me go ahead and say that most people don't complain about lack of chassis, because they don't know what a solid chassis feels like. but they do know what plenty of power feels like."

-Quoted from one of the Miata forums and why the vast majority will not likely do not appreciate the exxe. Easiest and simplest motor vehicle performance aspect to access by the majority of drivers is acceleration power, most difficult is chassis control and dynamics at or on the cornering adhesion limits.


Bernice


How is the chassis stiffness? A friend's Miata spent a few months hanging around in the shop last summer, and you couldn't open the doors when it was on the lift.
 
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Sorry to go digging up an old thread, but I'm really interested in learning more about those hub stands! I tried sending a PM but my account was mistakenly banned and the message removed as spam so I'm not sure if it went through or not. The administrator was kind enough to reinstate me so I thought I'd try posting here...

OP, can you tell us more about the design? I'm looking to make something similar and I have a lot of questions, like the best metal to use, and what thickness (it looks like 3/4" aluminum?), and where to get suitable wheels etc. I'd love to see how the height adjustment works too - I think I get it from the pics, but it would be great to see more pics if you have any, especially of the other side.

Thanks!
 
My Miata handles great and the chassis is super stiff. :)

That being said, regarding alignments, etc, with all of the Miatas racing and doing track days every day, alignment specs should be extremely well known. I don’t have my sheet available in front of me, but the camber measurements you state are exactly as I remember them.

The Miata is a couple hundred pounds heavier than an X? Looking at a spec sheet for an 85 X1/9, it states 1002 kg which is a bit over 2200 lbs. My former street Miata, 1997 R Package, weighed a bit over 2200 lbs without driver. My Spec Miata (still have) without driver weighs like 1980 lbs there about not counting 50 or 75 lbs of ballast on the floor (can’t remember). I believe the SM rules have changed since my car sas built so minimum weight with driver is higher these days, so I’d need to add more weight.

I guess the point of all of this is that I always thought Miatas and X1/9s weighed about the same—except many Miatas have power stuff, power steering, leather, and other heavy things and X1/9s generally don’t and that probably makes quite a bit of difference.

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Most of us are not in a financial position to spend more on an alignment rig including hub stands than we spent on our Xs!
Most of us don't have the skills to make hub stands!
We all wish we lived near a certain person who has all these toys.

Back to the original post, for some reason my NA Miata oversteered and allowed me to exit Summit Point's turn 10 backwards.
 
Miata NA-NB do not have sufficient chassis strenght-stiffness unless significantly modified.
Metric used for chassis strength-stiffness?

There is a 97' Miata NA in the fleet (that is the Miata on hub stands being corner weighted and chassis set up pictured on this thread), more I work on it the less I'm impressed with the design, build and quality of construction.

Most recent item done on the NA, replace the diff bearings and diff mounts which IMO are poorly designed and complete with a Mazda inflected production stress riser that is well known to fail.

Bernice


My Miata handles great and the chassis is super stiff. :)
 
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