Little by Little

Tavalin

Tavalin

Florida Mike (again)
After seeing Mark's restoration I am so jealous! But I am going to keep on pressing forward with my restoration.

Received my intake runners and injector o-rings today from MWB as well as a replacement lighter housing.
Installed the lighter and everything works great.
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Then I noticed that the "EX. GAS SENSOR" does not work. What is it and where is the sensor located? Checked the bulb and it seemed to be ok.
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Also, is there a way to change the clock to a 24hr time?
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I will post my progress on the fuel injectors and the intake runners this weekend. It is going to be fun.

V/r, Mike
 
Tavalin said:
Then I noticed that the "EX. GAS SENSOR" does not work. What is it and where is the sensor located? Checked the bulb and it seemed to be ok.
Click to expand...

EX GAS SENSOR light turns on every 30k miles to tell you to check the O2 sensor. The light comes on based on mileage only, it is not based on any sensor input. The 30k mile counter is a black box located behind the center stack. If you turn on the ignition (but don't start the engine) the oil pressure warning light should come on. Whenever the oil pressure warning light is on, the EX GAS SENSOR light should come on also. There is a diode connecting the two warning lights inside the 30k mile counter box, so if the counter box is missing the EX GAS light will never illuminate. The whole EX GAS SENSOR warning light system does not serve much of a purpose, so the 30k mile counter is often removed. Perhaps this is the case with your car?
 
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Ng_randolph, I will just leave it as is. I do not want to jumper anything. Plus, I am having a hard time getting the dash apart.
The EX Gas Sensor, behind, I believe you mean under the dash near the shifter??? I am a public schooled southern boy, former Marine and need pictures. :) Preferably in crayon...lol
If at all possible, point me to a picture so I can get an idea of were it is supposed to be and what it might look like.
V/r, Mike
 
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Here's mine. Took it out. I scraped the letters off the lens of the idiot light and rigged it up so it will come on whenever I leave my engine lid unlatched and the key is on. Something useful.
 
So, you want your clock to be 24 hour? Like military time? That's how it was stock. If yours isn't, that's weird. I did the mod mentioned above to change it to 12 hour.
 
Jvandyke, I found the box and it is a bear to get to. I will tackle it later. I am sort of a purest and want to do a proper restoration with as close as possible to original parts. I will change out the OX sensor when I change out the non-stock broken exhaust and the bulb as well.

The clock works great and is accurate but it shows only 12hr time. Do not know if I want to touch a 30 year old working rare clock. I saw one on eBay and it was a pretty penny. I just like seeing the 24hr time. Maybe getting that from my 9 years in the Marines.
Thanks for the advice.

Oh, I changed out the intake runners today and reinstalled the injectors with all new o-rings but ran into a problem with one bolt... It was stripped and not the correct size. I will get one tomorrow. And there were two hoses that broke was I was taking off the FI plenum. Easy fix. Napa should have those parts.
Almost there...
Adjust the timing, replace the brake and clutch master cylinders and replace the exhaust and mechanically she will be great. Then on to the interior.
Thanks, Mike

My wish list is a set of Daytona original wheels. They remind me of the early Ferrari wheels and have always been my favorite even when I was little. I would trade my 14in German CMS wheels for a set of Daytona wheels in a heartbeat.
 
Oh, the reason I changed out the intake runners...
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And one had a stripped out bolt that had a 1/4 inch sheet metal screw in it.
I really enjoy working on the X but I am finding issues that should not exist.
 
It is odd your clock is 12 hour since they were 24 stock I thought. Maybe somebody did the mod to yours, highly unlikely. I appreciate your purest approach. I have that inkling too but I have done a lot of "customizing" (albeit minor things) to mine, "improvements" to my mind, mostly.
:whistle:

Good on ya for cleaning up those FI bits, they need to be solid. I had to do similar to mine, I also had a stripped connection there, ended up getting another runner with good threads.
Once you've worked it over (a few times) and righted all those wrongs it will reward you.
 
Just a point

Tavalin said:
Ng_randolph, I will just leave it as is. I do not want to jumper anything. Plus, I am having a hard time getting the dash apart.
The EX Gas Sensor, behind, I believe you mean under the dash near the shifter??? I am a public schooled southern boy, former Marine and need pictures. :) Preferably in crayon...lol
If at all possible, point me to a picture so I can get an idea of were it is supposed to be and what it might look like.
V/r, Mike
Click to expand...

Looking at the wiring diagram for Bob Martins car, the injector cooling fan is wired into this thing. By removing it, the injector cooling fan will not work at all.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
 
I read it as a grey/yellow wire that is a ground, the oil pressure switch will open (un ground the circuit) when engine is running thus the injector fan relay isn't grounded and the fan's won't run with engine running (which is good, it does no good then), when engine off, pressure switch grounds, fan can go if the oil pressure doesn't see pressure and ground the circuit and the temp sensor sees heat and closes the circuit to ground.
The ex gas timer shares that ground line but not involved in injector fan. It looks like the ex gas timer will also trigger the oil pressure light when it goes? even if there is good pressure? Really? There's a diode in there. Explained above.......I took mine out.
 
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TonyK said:
Looking at the wiring diagram for Bob Martins car, the injector cooling fan is wired into this thing. By removing it, the injector cooling fan will not work at all.
Click to expand...

As Jeff pointed out above, the signal from the oil pressure switch is shared between the oil pressure warning light and the injector cooling fan relay. The signal also goes to the 30k mile counter box, but removing the box has no effect on the operation of the injector cooling fan.

My 30k mile counter is sitting in a box in a spare bedroom, but the injector cooling fan still comes on when needed.
 
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Clock

Try pressing both button on the clock at the same time or hold them both, I think that is how I changed mine from 24 hour to 12 hour, not sure I remember that correctly, but try it.

PW
 
I converted my clock to 24 hr yesterday

Took out the solder "bridge", which looked like it had been added post production.
 
Thanks everyone... Great discussions. Learning at every post. I will reset the timer and replace the OX sensor (after the new exhaust).
As for changing the clock. I am a little apprehensive touching a thirty year old working clock so I am going to leave it, after I try the two button method.
Installed new intake runners and now the number one injector does not leak. Great power. Now, set the timing and new exhaust then hit the brake and clutch master cylinders.
Thanks everyone...
Mike
 
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