Proposal of Winter Project for Doug (RX1900)

Yves

True Classic
Dear Doug,
many of us need the special tools to torque the head bolts without removing the cam box. The 17mm version is very rare and almost not available...
You proved by all of your past projects initiative you have the skill to built that set of tools.

I would like to do by myself but I have no welding machine and no skill metalworking .

If you go forward with that project be sure I will be your first customer.

PS. If other peoples are interested please let him (Doug) know it, encourage him!

Yves
 
Just a thought...

...is the reason the 17mm set is less common, is that they are not as necessary? i.e the 17mm is for the 10mm torque to yield bolts, which in an ideal world means you can fit the head ok (without the cam box) and torque up and forget using just normal socket wrench. Only if you want to pre-assemble the head/cam box/cam would you need to use the special tool. But I could be wrong :) If there is a need then maybe an adaptable 17mm/15mm set is a good move, as the newer TTY bolts tend to be the later 15mm heads :doh:
 
Or simply buy arp studs and 16mm wrench size 12 point nuts and buy one of the aircraft spruce 5/8 tools...

SteveC
 
TOOL

I bought EU 1500 10 Bolts head from M/W, It seems to be like new. payed around $1500.
After that, got attached Tool in Japan.
So, I think it's ready to start install.
But I hesitate to do, How difficult to replace?

 
I would be interested.

The ARP bolt option is certainly of interest though one does worry about getting the head off of them some day in the future (thus the other head tool I don't have for pulling the head off the studs)
 
So, I think it's ready to start install.
But I hesitate to do, How difficult to replace?

The hard part is getting the old head off if it uses studs instead of bolts - the studs may have welded themselves to the head.
 
Yves, whether or not you use torque-to-yield bolts...

or borrow the special wrenches from some of the good folks on this site... this is a PERFECT excuse for you to git yurself a "welding machine".

Most of us start LOW at about $100 bucks...

http://www.harborfreight.com/90-Amp...iOTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiMTA1NzEifQ==

This machine will pay for itself after two repairs or fabrications. No gas needed but using an American Made Flux Core Wire will improve your welds. Use the supplied wire to learn and practice with.

BUT, knowing YOU and your unlimited funds, I suggest YOU git yurself one of these Plasma Cutter/Welding Packages from Eastwood...

http://www.eastwood.com/mig135-and-versa-cut-plasma-cutter-kit.html

These start at about $800 and you can add another $1000 for their top end stuff. This machine will pay for itself after going pro in about a 40 hour work week.

Do I know how to spend YOUR money as well as dictating a new career for you, or what?
 
bolts vs studs

have you seen a head that was removed with brute force as the studs had corroded with rust?? head broke.... need another. aluminum and steel don't play good together, and introducing another set of studs to the mix would most likely send you to the bottle before the head even budges. unless it's a race motor that gets torn down after a race or two, don't do all studs. the studs are for aligning the head on installation. I have the super special FIAT head removal tool here, and that is still a PITA.
if the bolts/nuts are TTY don't worry about a re-torque.
mikemo
 
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