new kid in town

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Gruffalo

True Classic
Hi all, I got an '80 x1/9 this week, couldn't resist any longer.

I had 2 in the eighties, but later I converted to german cars, and I currently have a 928 S4 as my hobby car but wanted something different :)

I drove the car 500 miles home post purchase. The car is lagely rust free, has new struts/brakes/clutch, the interior is great (sans carpet). The paint is a 10-footer... :|

Issues:
- charging warning light is on, but charge is fine, bad ground?
- tank gauge goes crazy below 2/3 full
- i need a switch blank in the console
- one hinge for the glove box is broken
- carpet is worn on the drivers side
- 5th is hard to engage, and the shift lever feels like it moves more forward, than rearward.
- drivers side window rattles, and lets in wind
- I might have heard some front suspension rattle
- targa top needs rubber seals
- hesitation or dead spot when i abruptly hit the throttle, lean?
- I miight wanna du a bumper backdate when other issues are sorted


Please advice :) !!
 
Hei Gruffalo. Velkommen til XWebforums!

Gruffalo said:
- charging warning light is on, but charge is fine, bad ground?
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I doubt it is a bad ground. Have you measured the voltage at the battery with the engine running? You should see close to 14V.

Gruffalo said:
- i need a switch blank in the console
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Someone here might have one to sell you. Also check out the list of vendors in the Wiki. Unfortunately Laursen in Denmark closed up shop earlier this year. Eurosport in England is an excellent vendor, and shipping to Norway should be quick. Most of the US vendors will ship to Norway as well. I find that I spend most of my money at Midwest Bayless and Chris Obert, but Vick and International Auto are good vendors as well.

Gruffalo said:
- hesitation or dead spot when i abruptly hit the throttle, lean?
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It would help if you tell us more about the engine. In California these cars had fuel injection by 1980 while Europe stayed with carburetors. Some US spec cars made it into Europe as well, but I assume you have carbs?

Gruffalo said:
- I miight wanna du a bumper backdate when other issues are sorted
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I like the late bumpers (1979 onwards?) and they are very effective. I would think twice before changing them out. I think in Europe the bumpers were hard-mounted, in the US they used shock mounts. Someone backed into my '85 a few years ago, and all I had to do was replace one of the shock mounts (it compressed and did not bounce back).
 
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Your X's issues sounds very fixable, nothing you listed is new or unique to us x heads, so you should be able to get some good advice on how to fix.

I'll start with the fuel gauge. The sending unit in the tank most likely has a worn out potentiometer at that point your gauge starts acting up. Replacement of the sender is a sure fire fix, or if you are more inclined to want to get your hands dirty, a repair of the potentiometer windings is very do-able.

Sender Repair link:
http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/14295&highlight=fuel+gauge+sender
 
Welcome to the addiction Gruffalo!

I see Bjorn responded to most of your "issues" and I thought I'd throw in some of my thoughts...

Issues:

- charging warning light is on, but charge is fine, bad ground?

You'll need to tell us things more specifically... The word "fine", or "looks good" really doesn't tell us anything. Use a DIGITAL VOM (voltmeter) preferably and measure the voltage on the large post of the alternator to the engine cam cover, AND also to the chassis. The voltage should read the SAME at both points and be between 13.8 and 14.2 volts. If good, then measure the voltage at the battery as well. It should read about the same also with the engine running... and about 12.6 volts with the engine off.

Secondly... if the Red Light is on I doubt it is charging at all and I think this test will prove it

- tank gauge goes crazy below 2/3 full

This is very common and 99% of the time is a bad sending unit in the tank. The "wiper", which is attached to the float arm on the sending unit resister, has either worn out a spot on the resister wire, or worn out to the point it no longer contacts, or has worn THROUGH the resister wire. All can be FIXED or REPLACED and after you pull the unit from the top of the tank and send PICTURES, we can tell you more specifically.

 - i need a switch blank in the console

Go to our FS&W section and post a WANTED item... or go to one of our suppliers... MIKEMO90, a member here has lots of stuff like this, maybe even Jeff Stitch or Jeff Johnson. Also try MidwestBayless.com or FiatPlus.com (VicksAutoSports.com has lots of NEW stuff but little used stuff.)

Secondly, another solution is to install another switch where the BLANK is. Almost anyone will do... and you can use it in the future for a Radiator Fan Relay actuator or other stuff...

 - one hinge for the glove box is broken

Yep... not an option, this feature is standard on all late models. If you repair or replace this glove box door you will probably break it again the first time you go to look for something. It doesn't open wide enough for most tall people to see inside anyway... hence the over stressing of the hinges.

There are many solutions and upgrades out there so ask. In the future though, I suggest you ask ONE, or a few related questions per post, so that the Subject Matter Experts (SMEs) will see it and respond...

Secondly... I gave up and used Velcro to secure the door in place and pack stuff in there that I rarely need. A Center Console between the seats has been added to my ride (Henk in the Netherlands sells a great one, a bit pricey but PERFECT!) and I find it to be a great solution.
- carpet is worn on the drivers side

Imagine that! HA! Henk's again or look for another supplier locally. Replace with a good used one, a NEW one, (Ebay... but that SEWN carpet is a bit "cheap" and doesn't fit well) or make your own. Henk has FORMED one-piece carpets.

Lastly, a good mat might work temporarily.

 - 5th is hard to engage, and the shift lever feels like it moves more forward, than rearward.

Under the car is a LOLLIPOP link that connects the shifting shaft to the trans. Its probably worn or gooey. If not, try to adjust by placing the trans in neutral, loosening the link, centering the shifter, and then re-tightening. Test at a standstill, then test drive. Sometimes it takes a few tries. The LOLLIPOP can be FIXED or replaced inexpensively. More when you let us know what the condition is.

- drivers side window rattles, and lets in wind
- I might have heard some front suspension rattle
- targa top needs rubber seals

I would say these items like window fuzz and rubber items need to be replaced. FS&W section again.

- hesitation or dead spot when i abruptly hit the throttle, lean?

Carb or FI... I would suspect a carb... pull and overhaul, or could be your Dizzy advance... Need to divide and conquer FIRST by proving the advance is good. More detail if and when needed.

 - I miight wanna du a bumper backdate when other issues are sorted

Good... we can discuss the PROS and CONS of this conversion (diversion?) when the time comes...
Please advise...

OK... and again... Welcome to our world!
 
Thanks guys! I just wanted to introduce myself and the car :)

I have a Porsche 928 S4 and a BMW e39 540 that I maintain myself. So hopefully I'll be able to tackle most of the challenges the x will throw at me.

I'll post individual questions and keep you posted as I go along.

I'll fix the little things I mentioned first, then we'll see about the paint. But first of all I want something working decently.
 
Also considering totally bumperless like this car local to me:

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6a50627ecf1c79b411e21db59001ce35.jpg
 
I've been running bumper-less for a few years now. I like it. Now when I see a bumpered X they look odd. Parallel parking isn't often done so I'm not worried about getting tapped, that and my car is a piece of junk so it doesn't really matter.:eyepop:
 
Not stock

Those "bumpless ones" are home made or at least modified, so is the nice grill in the red car you like. WELCOME ,Grant ...Please post some pics of your car:)
 
Looks really nice!
Although feels like I'm looking at my own when I see it...
Yours is a similar year and (same?) color but with euro turn signals and a white interior.

You have some good advice from the group here so several small things to work on. From my POV, working on the X is half the fun. Driving is the other half!
 
Exhaust

I run the one from Allison`s. Plated and beautiful, but expensive. Constructed for mid and top end performance. They claim 20% performance increase. It is also an issue as to what else has been completed on your engine. If you are going to spend money, start with head valves and porting. Chris Obert did mine. Vicks, Mid-west and Allison`s all provide headers, Allison`s is the only one I found that has complete units fitted with mufflers. all others require you to complete from the collector back.
 
Looks Great!!! A few more thoughts...

1. "Lumps" are usually called "Bumper Blocks" and also usually found on only NA '74s. I didn't know if later Euro models had them or not.

2. Early bumpers with the blocks or without, Steel Blades or Fiberglass Replica Blades, none of them really worked at protecting the car. even a slight tap would bend or break the blades and the blocks required you to hit them "square" to be of any use.

3. Late model bumpers were required for US 5 mph crash standards along with a bunch of smog stuff which FIAT and BERTONE stepped up to. Before they could import the cars here, the government lowered the standard to 2.5 mph. They are mounted on "shocks front and rear and guess what? They actually WORK!

4. Race Cars don't have bumpers, most Street Cars usually do. Depending on the STYLE of car you want to have or build, I suggest you consider this "bumper philosophy" of sorts.

Most folks thing the late model bumpers and trim are UGLY... but when you have been hit in the rear or T-Bone someone else and there is absolutely NO damage and the bumper pops out again and looks as if nothing happened... they now look BEAUTIFUL!

I personally think they actually make the car look longer and lower which works for ME on my Street Cruiser. The Red Car you keep posting looks like a Racer of sorts as he still runs a bumper, but with abbreviated rear fenders, dual exhausts, wider tires and wheels with more negative offset as well. The blades look good but a true Racer wouldn't have bumpers at all.Lastly, if and when you go to remove or replace yours, there are a dozen holes to fill and patch, as well as repaint the car. Some use "plugs" or nothing at all... and IMHO, that just ain't "right".

Have fun!
 
Thanks for the input everyone! I'll start by fixing what's broken, and when all that's done (never) I'll "fix" the bumpers.

I've already sourced a bunch of parts, so I'm well underway
 
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