850 Sport Coupe series 2 track car.

Front suspension ready for a wheel alignment. Bilstien clubman coil overs. NZ made lower wishbones. Stock brake disc thinned down to 6.5mm and Tokico calipers. Little metal ground off the calipers and the bleeders will have to be shortened to fit alloy 13 inch Cheviot wheels. John Edwards caliper adapters.

 
Car is on the ground today. First time in over 25 years. Unfortunately the exhaust muffler is too close to the ground so that's coming off tomorrow!
 
This is my car ready for it's road trip to Brisbane for the Fiat Nationals. 3 day trip. Went to drive off the trailer practice day and she would only run at 3000rpm. Found an air leak in the manifold. Then it would start and not run. Problem with the SU carburettor. Lots of assistance from other competitors but there was unfortunately no SU specialists amongst all the Fiat enthusiasts!
 
Looking good up there :)

Sorry you ran into such trouble with it. I am surprised there were no SU specialists at an Italian car event (in a commonwealth country...)

Bummer. Did you get to drive it at all?
 
kmead said:
Looking good up there :)

Sorry you ran into such trouble with it. I am surprised there were no SU specialists at an Italian car event (in a commonwealth country...)

Bummer. Did you get to drive it at all?
Click to expand...

No. Had to watch from the sideline. Entered in a Hill climb Sunday so hopefully it will get a run then. Cleaned up the carby and found some sealant that has probably gone soft from the E85 fuel. Hopefully have it running tomorrow.
 
I was not the only one to have a bad weekend. One very expensive X1/9 did 10 laps practice day then spun a main bearing. Another X1/9 spun a bearing on start up! Not sure what caused the problems.
 
Hope it works out next race weekend

I read your write up on the Fiat site. So cool to have the car back and so close to race ready. About all I can do is cross my fingers and send some good mojo south for your next race opportunity. It'd be awesome to see some racing video from either in the cockpit or trackside. Good luck and keep your foot in it!
 
motoTrooper said:
I read your write up on the Fiat site. So cool to have the car back and so close to race ready. About all I can do is cross my fingers and send some good mojo south for your next race opportunity. It'd be awesome to see some racing video from either in the cockpit or trackside. Good luck and keep your foot in it!
Click to expand...

Had to drive my old Porsche in the hill climb today with old road tyres. After several hours repeatedly pulling down the SU I found I had a blown gasket supercharger to intake manifold. I thought when I had the engine running earlier in the day there was not the usual scream from the charger. I intend to get this SU sorted but I think I will have to plan on converting to EFI. I'm carefully studying "Ditchdiggers" 850 on another forum and I'm not afraid to steal ideas.
 
Ditch diggers build is amazing, good guy to crib a few ideas from. :wink2:

Sorry for the troubles.
 
Have not updated for awhile so This photo will give some idea what I am up to.

Have had no joy trying to get the suck through charger SU carby set up to run properly. Have now bought a Microsquirt system and Ford EDIS-4 ignition unit and am in the throes of a full EFI conversion. Presently fabricating the alloy manifolds and will be firing two injectors down the back of the manifold so the supercharger will only be pumping air. Holden Barina[Opel] throttle body.
 
This is a really stupid question.

Shouldn't the sensor be on the opposite side? Before TDC is on the right side on a CCW motor.

I have been interested in doing this on a normally aspirated CCW 850 motor, (including the Mega/Micro Squirt). My assumption has been to put the sensor at 9 teeth btdc which would be to the right side quadrant, not the left.

Feel free to disabuse me of this notion and please post as many other details as you care to offer.

Many thanks.

Karl
 
In this case the sensor is mounted in a convenient place. The engine is at TDC and the trigger wheel is rotated around till the ninth tooth is ahead of the missing tooth. Don't worry I spent ages trying to get my head around it.
 
Supercharger to head manifold is all set to go. IAT sender mounted just downstream, Blow off valve in the centre, pair of injectors firing straight down into the intake port, MAP take off on the side. Throttle body manifold on the left needs a slight mod.

Engine bay is looking a bit different now. No distributor is going to make tappet adjustment easier. Bracket top right is for the coil pack and EDIS control and holds MAP sensor, flex fuel sender etc. Leaving caharger off for a couple of days till I get the fuel lines sorted while I have good access.
 
First outing last Sunday at the local hillclimb. Saturday I spent an hour or so driving the car up and down the road at my place tuning the engine with the self tuning function {veanalyze live] on Tunerstudio on my laptop sitting in a bracket where the passenger seat was. When I was fairly happy it was a safe tune I loaded her up onto the trailer. I had no tacho wired up, I was waiting for an adapter kit to arrive so the two Ford coils could drive the tacho, naturally it arrived Monday. The engine is not run in either so I tried to keep the revs down to what I guessed to be 4000. In the video I certainly shifted early out of first! Did two runs and then on the third the engine stopped near the top of the run. Seemed to be a cloud of smoke and I smelt burning rubber. I presumed the supercharger belt had broken. I coasted back down the hill and put her on the trailer. Belt was OK and the only thing I found was the hose for the boost gauge had separated and I'm guessing the Microsquirt thought the engine had gone lean and dumped a heap of fuel in. Anyway it started up the next morning.
Impressions. The car feels very light. The lightened flywheel is going to take some getting used to. The gear lever is way too long and I took 5 inches out of it today. Heaps of torque! 044 Bosch fuel pump is deafening and I am going to have to wrap it in rubber.
I looking for info now on how to reduce the negative camber on the rear wheels.
 
The 'easy way' is to raise the inner mounts upward the same amount you have lowered the car. Which may foul the axles. You may need to fabricate new arms with a revised bearing mount at the preferred lowered dimension (i.e. the bearing will be higher relative to the arms current relationship) which would allow you to use the original springs and arm mounting locations
 
Did a quick check on the rear toe in yesterday. There was 5 degrees on one side! This of course makes the negative camber look worse.
 
Yes this is what I was referring to. I assumed you would have no trouble making something similar given your general willingness to fabricate whatever you need :)

You can see that moving the mount by the transaxle would result in fouling the axle itself, thus the configuration that raises the mounting out at the wheel end for the bearing carrier.

Going to CV's would be advisable particularly at the wheel end as the rubber version standard will fail at these extreme operating angles and I am sure the stones and bearing surfaces in the final drive will also fail eventually.

Can't wait to see what you come up with...

Dang they have some nice stuff on that site!
 
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