Dowel pinning the flywheel and crank

rjplenter

True Classic
I'm creating a separate thread for a very important issue that is still related to uprated fasteners.

Caveat: I am a scientist, I'm not an engineer.

As some of you know, I am building a new engine. It is being designed to cope with regular 8,000rpm bursts and includes a lightened flywheel.

There have been previous suggestions that I have dowel pins installed and I have looked into this option. Like others here I have not been able to find a machinist who can do it, or who will do it. The advice is always; "That is not needed in a small 4 cylinder engine because the rotating masses aren't high enough.".

I am using ARP 209-2801 flywheel bolts which I assume have a higher sheer rating, although I can find no specifications to back that up. The recommended torque for these bolts is 70lbft which is 15% higher than standard bolts, so a significantly increased clamping force.

I have 2 main hesitations in installing dowel pins:
1) It is not something I feel comfortable in doing myself because of the tolerances required,
2) It seems to me the metal to hole ratio in the flywheel is already marginal...



...and I worry about possibly weakening the mounting surface of the flywheel by drilling more holes in it.

All opinions, thoughts and suggestions gratefully appreciated.

Cheers,

Rob
 
My .02

Here is my thoughts on it.

Given the stress your motor will go through, I could see this as a good insurance item.

Steve H had enough problems in the past to where he had a Kevlar shield installed where the fuel tank use to go just to make sure he was safe from any potential issues (in the US, the driver and transmission are on the same side)

While the clamping force of 70 foot pounds sounds like a lot, the rotational forces these items are experiencing at 8k rpm are much higher!

I will be interested to hear what Matt has to say on this as well, considering he is probably running his engine around the same areas as you are.
 
Only once did a race engine here sheer all the bolts. Wasn't the SOHC but the late DOHC with the 12mm bolts. Was a down shift gone very wrong.

It doesn't cause an issue with the bolt pattern. The dowel strength can be argued a few ways. I've heard that if they are a press fit, their strength is greater than if they are just a snug fit requiring gentle pressure and I have heard the opposite. The press fit dowels distribute more load in all directions, even out from center. Working almost like knurling. The snug fit doesn't cause metal distortion of the crank or flywheel and prevents stress fractures. Read up, talk to your machine shop, decide on your own.

Lower weight flywheels do not directly effect if you will sheer bolts. They do if you let the engine drop to idle and then slam it into low gear for a bit of engine braking while moving at a high rate of speed. An aluminum flywheel is less likely to sheer bolts due to the soft center but it can have the bolt holes elongate.
 
4 cylinder harmonics

In the engine dino run on my engine, my builder Locktite and torqued the adapter from the crank to the dino: it has dowel pins.

After the power runs, we decided to do some runs at mid range rpm to further adjust the O2 levels. Suddenly the engine started to shake violently, we did a quick shut down. It kind of shook like a wet dog.

It had backed out most of the bolts holding the adapter on, and wobbled the flywheel on the dino enough to wipe out the last quarter inch of his mag sensor.

My builder said that there is an inherent harmonic in a 4 cylinder engine, and he can do 900 HP runs on V8 engines, but the little 4's give him the issue. This was not the first time it had happened to him, one time it broke the massive drive shaft on the dino.

I vote for dowel pins.

Fortunately, my stroker crank was OK.

Paul Davock
 
My builder said that there is an inherent harmonic in a 4 cylinder engine, and he can do 900 HP runs on V8 engines, but the little 4's give him the issue. k

The secondary forces on an inline 4 are not balanced. On a cross-plane, 90° V8, they are.
 
The secondary forces on an inline 4 are not balanced. On a cross-plane, 90° V8, they are.

And this would be why the ferrari three-liter V8 with its flat-plane crank (basically two 1.5 liter inline fours sharing a crankshaft) needs a big harmonic damper on the crank?
 
As I understand it, a harmonic balancer or dampener is used for a different thing. They are to dampen torsional vibrations in the crankshaft due to firing pulses. Often it is a disc of iron (mass) mounted through an annulus of elastomer (spring) to a hub attached to the crankshaft. Dante Giacosa designed one based on pendulums that has come into vogue again, but that's another story (thread).

Counter-rotating balance shafts are generally used to get rid of secondary imbalance. You can't add mass anywhere to dampen secondary imbalance on the crank because it rotates at, well, crankshaft speed (primary speed or first order). The balance shafts rotate at 2X crankshaft speed. In modern times, pretty much any I4 over 2 liters needs balance shafts.

But back on the subject of the flywheel bolts....

Just intuitively, I would think that the firing pulses (180° apart) effect the crank to flywheel interface more than secondary imbalance. The torque reversals are what I suspect the issue is. Engine fires, twists crank, crank untwists, engine fires, crank twists, etc. etc.

Keep in mind that the friction between the two clamped parts is what carries the torque (not the shear strength of the bolts). You generate that friction by the clamping force (force due to friction = normal force * µ (coefficient of friction)). The amount of force you can generate is determined by how much you torque the bolts. The amount you can torque the bolts is dependent upon the tensile strength of the bolts which relates to the hardness of the bolt.

The factory joint is fine for the stock engine but I suspect that in high performance applications like Paul D's, that the torsional vibrations due to firing pulses are generating enough energy to cause the crank and the flywheel to move relative to one another at some small level. Once this starts, it's all over. The bolts loosen and the clamp load vanishes. Once the clamp load is gone, the bolts are sheared like butter.

If you pin the two together, the dowel pin only carries the amount of torque above what the frictional force is carrying but very importantly prevents any movement that would loosen the bolts and lessen the frictional force.

Again, just sort of theorizing here with no hard data to back it up but this is somewhat to analogous to ring gear bolts in that it is a bolted joint carrying torque that is subject to torque reversals and I do have experience in that application.

Perhaps Steve C has information that is more relevant than my theory.
 
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I have sheared flywheel bolts on two high performance builds...one on a 1500 sohc, and one on a 2 litre twin cam. Both times the clutch gave a strange feel (according to the driver) in the couple of shifts before the failure. Luckily both times the crank wasn't damaged and dowelling the replacement flywheel led to many more trouble free years with the engines.

Paul Valente is definitely on the right track...I also think it's a vibration issue inherent with inline fours...and loading on the joint caused by a torque reversal (in both my personal experiences caused by an aggressive downshift) I'm not an engineer or a particularly strong mathematician, so I can't get into the maths /physics of what is going on, but here is my take on it.

The rod ratio is the connecting rod length divided by the crankshaft stroke. A longer rod and a shorter crankshaft stroke results in a higher rod ratio and the higher this ratio, the better for lessening the inherent vibration in an inline 4. A shorter rod increases the angularity of the rod as it operates inside the engine and this results in higher forces acting against rotation. These are what are known as first order forces. The greater the rod angularity, the greater the force component that will focus on the piston skirt and consequently greater friction between the skirt and cylinder, this results in greater friction losses.

There are also what are known as second-order forces and these cause unbalance and vibration and will make the engine lose torque output due to unbalance. The second-order forces are totally dependent on the ratio of crank radius / rod length and twice the angle of the crankshaft. Therefore the higher the rod ratio the lower the forces that counteract the torque gain and decrease engine performance... now I'm not 100% sure of the mathematical equation that describes this phenomenon, but I'm pretty sure that the weight of the components would have an effect, and an engine with lower reciprocating mass (considering the discrete component values) would be subject to lower vibrational forces...but this is purely a gut feeling.

Rod ratio also ties in with the following... as a longer rod ratio will result in differences in the piston position relative to the crank throw.

Basically, when the crank throw is 90 degrees from the top/bottom, the connecting rod bottom end is off to the side, which means the piston is not at halfway, it is sitting a little lower than the halfway position.

Do that on an inline four, and when the crank throws are at 90 degrees, the pistons are all below the halfway point. In a 1580/1603 (67.4 stroke) with a 128.25 rod that figure is 38.198mm from TDC, in a 1498 (63.9 stroke) it's 35.985mm... When the crank throws are straight up and down, two pistons are at top, two are at bottom. Figure out where the centre-of-gravity is in both cases. There's your answer for the traditional inline-four secondary-imbalance buzzy vertical-shake vibration at higher revs.

And that's not the only thing going on in an inline-four. When the pistons are all TDC/BDC, their kinetic energy is zero. When things are at 90 degrees, their total kinetic energy is at a maximum, and neglecting combustion/compression forces, that kinetic energy came from the crankshaft. Result ... instantaneous crank rotation speed is lower at the 90-degree point than at TDC/BDC, neglecting combustion forces. That happens twice per revolution ... and if you again look at conservation of momentum, the irregular rotation speed of the crankshaft also translates to an irregular rotation speed of the cylinder block. The average rotation speed of the cylinder block is obviously zero, but the instantaneous might not be. More buzzing.

And speaking of that combustion force ... that also happens twice per revolution on an inline-four, and it's phased differently from the inertial effect and the magnitude depends on where your foot is on the accelerator pedal.

There's a lot going on at twice crank rotation speed in an inline-four.

SteveC
 
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Inherent balance & the Otto cycle engine

Mea Culpa if I took the 'previous' thread referred to astray, but out of that came a good discussion.

A lot of engine machine shops are full of buncum and codswallop so the inline 4 flywheel dowel discussion is welcomed. These sweet Lampredi SOHC engine likes to spin and they like to buzz like a wasp nest too. As this thread wandered a little already [I feel appropriately diverging] into a discussion about how imbalanced the 4 cylinder really is.

My list of balance from best to worst [ not all permutations included], as a 'enlightened shade tree mechanic' is a little general but none the less hopefully useful when trying to deal with a machinist that wants to do what they are capable of [or most likely what they are used to] and not what the relative truth is about what you need with your Fiat SOHC. I see where Paul is coming from and having noted Bernice’s previous comments regarding how the harmonic probably adds to the weakness of the joint between flywheel and crank can we explore that a little?


Notes;

Inherently balanced engines have motions that cancel each other out.
Primary modes are vibrations at the first harmonic (at the engine speed/frequency), imbalances caused by variations in the component weights.

Secondary modes are 2nd harmonic (occuring at twice the engine speed) vibrations caused by non sinusodal motion of the pistons amongst other things.

Not engines all are the same.


The fabulous vee twelve is IMHO the smallest vee configuration with near perfect inherent state of balance, due to having two inline sixes joined at a common crank, the V-12 is naturally balanced regardless of its V angle. So count in the Flat 12 for inherent balance as its a boxer as well. Plus when the fabulous vee twelve is spinning 'on song' with velocity stack'd carb's they sound glorious and are good for the soul, what's not to love - price and they a huge.

The common vee-eight engine with crankshaft phase angles of fi = 0, 90, 270, 180° has an unbalanced primary moment as does the inline four from which it is derived, their bank angle allows ease of assembly on the production-line tooling. Notice I didn't say cross-plane, 90° V8, different beast.

The vee-six engine with 0, 240, 120° crankshaft has an unbalanced primary and secondary moment as does the three-cylinder inline from which it is derived. I had made a comment about the vee six which IMHO its 'true' form needs a 120° vee angle for proper balance. Bastardry by going to 60° vee angle to reduce packaging width on 6-throw even firing crank. Or using 90° vee angles for ease of engine building enjoyed by production-line 90° vee eights. 90° vee sixes will run rough due to uneven firing unless the crankshaft is redesigned to shift (or splay) the two conrods on each pin by 30°. Homage should go to Buicks mid-Seventies idea with its ingenious “split-journal” unit, essentially a 90° V8 with two cylinders lopped off but achieved 120-degree firing despite its V angle.

The straight six has excellent idle characteristics with one cylinder on one end of the crank firing followed by a cylinder at the other end combined with the overlapping torque generation at every 120° of crankshaft rotation it minimises the rocking motion in the horizontal plane (ie in line with the crankshaft). So has superb plane balance of reciprocating and rotating mass, with the addition of the perfect phase balances they have a reputation for smooth power delivery.

The straight four would like to fire at every 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation (720/4=180). Having firing events that occur in equal increments, for balance. But due to the geometry of the crankshaft and rods within the engine, fours shake in both the horizontal and vertical planes. Fours normally do not have overlapping power stroke, so tend to vibrate the engine back and forth rotationally on X-axis, Bernice explained how this motion tries to shrug the flywheel off. It may seem solid but metals can really be elastic, these imbalanced forces combined with sudden rotational forces can shear bolts.



I tagged this page I stumbled upon a while back as it did a better job than I could at explaining straight fours imbalance when I was bumbling around the Web looking at building a 2.6 litre flat type 4 for my bay window VW Kombi. It was unrelated at the time as it’s an I4 discussion rather than boxer about the large capacity Granada engine but went into a little depth about issues with larger in line 4's and why balance shafts became popular as engine capacities grew. No doctoral jargon but something that is easily understood by most of the guys I have pointed at it. Might help Jeff with his young fellas understanding of their latest’s acquisition. As well dispelling the modern myth that Mitsubishi invented the balance shaft. They didn't, goes back to Frederick Lanchester’s cars in 1911 apparently. So the old adage "want a new idea - read an old book" comes to mind. That our SOHC doesn't have a balance shaft probably comes from its inception as a small capacity roughly 1 Litre engine, as you grow to 2 Litres and beyond the unwelcome harmonics become a bigger problem with I4 motors.

Despite flat-fours having a problem common to all four-cylinder otto four-stroke cycle engines in that the power strokes do not overlap. The flat-four fires at 180-degree intervals, and its V angle is 180 degrees, maths which leads to a balance of firing forces. The flat-four, in fact, balances all three of the different types of forces. Plus I love the "flat four burble" of the old Kombi, sadly Subaru engineered that sound out.

To go a little further OT before I come back again I'd like to show how the old VW boxers did things and how pinning is a no brainer in that marquee. I hope to show why a flywheel is mated to an engine described in one solution does not fit reasoning in all engine permutations. If you come across a engineering shop that says 'Nnnarrrr' we don't think bla bla bla, you have a bit of an understanding that you should take your motor and your wallet elsewhere. Most AirHeads don't pin their flywheels because of the high rev happy nature of the old aircooled engine but because the way they are fixed to the crank is rubbish.

Give what Paul said

Quote

"If you pin the two together, the dowel pin only carries the amount of torque above what the frictional force is carrying but very importantly prevents any movement that would loosen the bolts and lessen the frictional force."
Relate this to how inferior the clamping force is in a type one VW engine where the standard 4 dowels manage to stop it from shearing and spinning on the end of the crank. Is this similar to the way safety wire stops the cap head screws walking out of the CV joints?

VW's type One and Four engines flywheels are held on the crank with ONE "Gland Nut' ( sililar to the way we do the crank pulley) and four dowel pins [8mm]. Despite the flat 4 boxer being more 'balanced' than our SOHC for anything of a serious upgrade the 'insurance' was to double that count to 8 pins. The factory VW fixture is pretty lame as it relies on just one big 'nut' [a holow bolt in reality], because they engineered that design to a price and a low specific HP, low end torque and not high revving HP. It’s common to drill the crank and flywheel for pins, you can jump on eBay and find 'puck' guide templates with accompanying pins easily from a number of brands that have been in the VW game for a long time. It’s not something I would do at home as the quality of the mill and interference fit of the pins is important, I've seen pins elongate out of a crank with what I surmised as poor fitting pins.

I still own ~140 HP VW engines that have sustained years of work with such small 'land' between the pins. Would I drill the Fiat SOHC crank for four pins rather that the current two, good question I have no data or experience to answer that. But I'd be interested to hear some thoughts. Two is all I did as that is what Fiat drilled into the crankshaft, so I just went with their 'intention'. Some luminaries in the board stated that pinning is not just a good idea but desirable and I was trying to shove ~200 HP thru a kevlar friction plate. I knew that my VW experinces showed there was indeed benifit so for the small outlay why not follow thru on the flywheel as the crank was already ready. I guess it was an intention that never implemented as I have never seen a factory SOHC with pins in the flywheel so am flummoxed as to why they only went 1/2 way. Or were the two holes in the crank for something else in the manafacturing proccess. First world problem I know but I have always wondered what they did that for.

So like Ulix if you came across and engine builder that says

"Don't need it if properly clamped" and "if there is enough force to snap 6 bolts, what is that pin going to do?"
look around the shop an look at the types of machines he is working with and on. Not all engines are the same despite being Otto 4 cycle combustion engines. Inability to calculate the co-ordinates of a PCD drilling is a dead giveaway.


The Lampredi SOHC is a buzzy little engine.





Oil in the mix;


V12, straight 6, boxer engines. The only common 'completely balanced' engines [nothing is truly completely balanced] there are but the point is often moot as hard as one might try and blueprint and component balance an engine once you stick oil in it it goes a little out the window. Try youtube etc to see if you can visualise what happens to oil flying around inside and engine at high Revs it is a random mess and oil clings to the crank in different places with no real dicernable pattern. Hence dry sumps do more than just ensure adequate oil supply, keeping it off reciprocating masses helps too.


In all a fascinating subject that has an interesting Wiki page

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_balance


Quote
"the common types of four cylinder engine. Normal inline-4 configuration[note 5] has very little rocking couples that often results in smooth middle rpm range, but the secondary imbalance, which is undesirable for high rpm, is large due to two pistons always moving together. Rotational vibration on the X axis, which is often felt during idling, tend to be large because, in addition to the non- overlapping power stroke inherent in engines with 4 or fewer cylinders, the height imbalance from connecting rods centre of gravity swinging left and right[note 2] is amplified due to two connecting rods moving together. Intake and exhaust pulse on ordinary inline-four engines have equal 360° spacing between the front-most and the rear-most cylinders, as well as between the middle two cylinders. So an equal-length (longer-branch) four-into-one exhaust manifold, or two 'Y' pipes each merging exhaust flows from #1 and #4 cylinders, as well as #2 and #3 cylinders are required for evenly spaced exhaust pulse. Older twin-carburetor setup often had each carb throat feeding the front two and the rear two cylinders, resulting in uneven 180°-540°-180°-540° intake pulse on each throat. Modern inline-four engines normally have four equal-length runners to a plenum (which is fed by a throttle at 180° evenly distributed frequency), or four individual throttles (at 720° equal spacing on each throttle)."


I certainly hope that I don't come across as stupid and cocksure. I have been oft told I was intelligent but I remember one of my fallen elders saying.

"Self promotion is no recommendation"

Thanks for the discussion, I might learn something.

Best regards

Sandy
 
Factory doweling

Hi Sandy,

You wrote:
"I guess it was an intention that never implemented as I have never seen a factory SOHC with pins in the flywheel so am flummoxed as to why they only went 1/2 way. Or were the two holes in the crank for something else in the manafacturing proccess. First world problem I know but I have always wondered what they did that for."

I can partially answer that question.
Apparently Uno Turbos had one dowel from the factory, someone posted an image out of a factory manual showing it.
And apparently some later Tipo 1.6 engines had it. My buddy has a Tipo flywheel with one in it, see pic.



I have a Tipo flywheel that does not have it.

Unfortunately the Tipo had a different ring gear with a different diameter and tooth count (122 vs. 124). It also looks a little different. I have not compared the two flywheels in their critical dimensions to determinine if it would be useable.
I also wouldn't know how to get my hands on one, especially since only some seem to have it.
 
Previously posted:

"That picture would be about Fiat crank number four that has sheared off all six Fiat OEM grade 12.9, M10x1.25 cap screws. This absolutely does happen and using "higher strength" fasteners alone is NOT going to correct this failure. What is likely happening, the flywheel & clutch assembly goes into resonance causing the flywheel-clutch assembly to deform like a cooked potato chip. This flexure essentially levers the cap screws with great force causing them to momentarily loosen, add a sudden significant shear load from change in engine speed -vs- flywheel& clutch speed = sheared off cap screws.

Steel or metals are NOT solid, think of them as rubber and elastic.

It is the job of pins or dowels or precision locating rings to locate jointed parts, the threaded fasteners job is to apply clamping force. Do not expect a normal threaded fastener to do both. Adding pins to the crank to flywheel-clutch joint effectively locates the jointed parts preventing them from moving or shifting as the parts involved flex with the cap screws trying to apply clamp load to hold the joint together."


Went on YouTube trying to find a Finite Element Analysis animation of resonant modal flexure of flywheel. While this is not exact or precisely what could be happening with the flywheel in this specific Lampredi SOHC Fiat engine, it does illustrate dynamic flexure at various harmonics.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqQlZVnVjIA

Each pulse of energy from the combustion process works nicely to excite resonances and harmonics baked into the system. Period or Frequency of the energy pulses vary depending on running engine RPM, Intensity or magnitude varies depending on energy delivered at the crank to the rest of the drive train system.

Add to this thermal loading from a slipping clutch during each shift to the flywheel, add loading from the screws into the flywheel that retain the clutch pressure plate, further add the loading from the clutch release bearing applying force on the clutch pressure plate to engage-disengage the clutch friction plate.

*We no longer have a simple static loaded system.

Over the decades of tinkering with this Lampredi SOHC Fiat four, there have been ZERO cases of failed flywheel screws on a stock tune engine. Personal experience has been with four cases of failed-all six sheared off flywheel screws on this race or high performance tuned Lampredi SOHC
engine. In every case, it the engine was near red-line under near full power either shifting up or down. All drivers reported the clutch feeling as if the pedal went to jelly, then zero, engine zings WAY past redline with no chassis acceleration. All had stock Fiat screws to retain the flywheel to the crank with no dowel pins.

This Lampredi SOHC engine as originally designed as a production low cost race engine. Consider why it was designed and produced with two dowel pin holes? Every one of these cranks I have encountered has these two dowel pin holes as delivered from Fiat. If one million of these cranks were produced by Fiat that would be two million precision sized dowel pin holes drilled into each crank. Given this adds production cost to the crank, why was this done if the dowel pin holes were not needed?

Due to the mass of the flywheel, clutch assembly the amount of energy that can be stored is not small, if all that energy is suddenly released, really, really bad stuff happens.


Bernice


Nature plays by it's own rules, one can do all they can to understand them, respect them, discover what they might be. Eventually, those who try to make stuff will need to make a deal with the ways of Nature. If the rules of Nature are violated, Nature is utterly and totally unforgiving and will continue to play by it's own rules regardless of those who try to have their own way with the way Nature really is.
 
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Great responses

And tons of information. Thanks folks!

My flywheel is going to be prepared for dowel pins by one of our own.

Cheers,

Rob
 
Lampredi / Fiat SOHC crank end measured on a mill with a precision centered four jaw chuck on a rotary table, precision center finder on precision made to fit pins with holes. This is the set up.

Lampredi%2BSOHC%2Bcrank%2Bend%2Bmeasure%2Bset-up.JPG



Measurements of the crank end, notes in red.

Lampredi%2B1500cc%252C%2Bcrank%2Bend%2Bnotes.JPG


These noted can be applied by any competent machinist with proper machine tools and tooling to dowel pin the flywheel.


This is what happens when cap screws are over torqued, they stretch/neck down. This is a grade 8.8 cap screw. If this was a "higher strength" cap screw, a sudden failure would be waiting to happen sooner than later. The lower strength cap screw is more tolerant to this type of abuse. Regardless, this remains a sudden failure waiting to happen. Stuff like this is one of the reasons why using grade 8.8 or SAE grade 5 IS preferred for these applications more often than not.

Note the difference in thread minor diameter measured with the digital thread micrometer between the abused-damaged cap screw -vs- a new M12x1.5mm cap screw. This M12x1.5mm cap screw removed from a Saab 9000 Aero front brake caliper bracket that was serviced by a "Pro Shop".

M12%2BOver%2Btorqued..jpg




Bernice
 
Adding flywheel dowel pin holes using a fixture made from the end of a Fiat crank.

The fixture is fitted to the flywheel. Centering is accomplished by a precision fit (0.0005"-0.001") between the fixture and flywheel center hole. Then a precision pin is installed. The M10 clearance hole in the flywheel runs between 0.413" to 0.4115", M10x1.25 internal threaded hole minor diameter runs between 0.346" to 0.3445". A precision diameter pin is fitted to precision locate the fixture. Once the pin is in place a M6 screw is used to hold the precision locating pin in place and a M10x1.25 screw is installed for added stability. The whole set up is put in a mill for hole location, drill then ream to fit.

This is the flywheel set up in the mill with a hole center finder in the ER32 collet chuck.
EX_flywheel%2Bpin%2Bcentering.JPG



Center finder applied to the dowel pin locating pin. Absolute precision is required here as the tolerances involved are in the 0.001" area.
EX-flywheel%2Bpin%2Blocated.JPG


Once the correct dowel pin hole location is achieved, the initial hole is center drilled (carbide center drill in ER32 collet chuck, greater precision than a drill chuck) to help guide the 0.390" drill (under size 10mm).
Ex_flywheel%2Bcenter%2Bdrill.JPG


0.390" dia screw machine drill in the ER32 collet chuck ready to produce the 10mm undersized hole.
EX_flywheel%2BDrill%2B0.390%2522%2Bhole.JPG


0.390" dai hole drilled. Chips show cast iron.
Ex_flywheel%2B0.390%2522%2Bhole%2Bdrilled.JPG


Set up the 0.3932" dia reamer (0.0005" under size 10mm) in a floating reamer locator to finish the dowel pin hole.
Ex_flywheel%2B10mm%2Breamer%2Bset%2Bup..JPG


Apply reamer by hand to finish the 10mm dowel pin hole.
Ex_flywheel%2B10mm%2Breamer%2Bdone.JPG


10mm dowel pin holes done. They are 0.0005" undersized for a 10mm (0.39370") dowel pin. This produces a slight press fit with enough allowance for crank hole tolerance variations.
Ex_flywheel%2Bdowel%2Bpin%2Bholes%2Bdone.JPG


Here is what the fixture, locating pins, cutting tools looks like not including the milling machine.
Ex_flywheel%2Bdowel%2Bpin%2Btools.JPG



Bernice
 
Fantastic description and photos

Great work Bernice! I doubt any machinist around here (or almost anywhere) possesses your amazing engineering skills. That is extremely precise work!

Here is one of the dowel pins:



McMaster-Carr part number 91595A642
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91595A642
Alloy steel, Minimum Rockwell hardness is C52. Meet DIN 6325-m6
McMaster-Carr is where I source all my non-ARP fasteners and many other small parts.

Cheers,

Rob

Adding flywheel dowel pin holes using a fixture made from the end of a Fiat crank.

The fixture is fitted to the flywheel. Centering is accomplished by a precision fit (0.0005"-0.001") between the fixture and flywheel center hole. Then a precision pin is installed. The M10 clearance hole in the flywheel runs between 0.413" to 0.4115", M10x1.25 internal threaded hole minor diameter runs between 0.346" to 0.3445". A precision diameter pin is fitted to precision locate the fixture. Once the pin is in place a M6 screw is used to hold the precision locating pin in place and a M10x1.25 screw is installed for added stability. The whole set up is put in a mill for hole location, drill then ream to fit.

This is the flywheel set up in the mill with a hole center finder in the ER32 collet chuck.
EX_flywheel%2Bpin%2Bcentering.JPG



Center finder applied to the dowel pin locating pin. Absolute precision is required here as the tolerances involved are in the 0.001" area.
EX-flywheel%2Bpin%2Blocated.JPG


Once the correct dowel pin hole location is achieved, the initial hole is center drilled (carbide center drill in ER32 collet chuck, greater precision than a drill chuck) to help guide the 0.390" drill (under size 10mm).
Ex_flywheel%2Bcenter%2Bdrill.JPG


0.390" dia screw machine drill in the ER32 collet chuck ready to produce the 10mm undersized hole.
EX_flywheel%2BDrill%2B0.390%2522%2Bhole.JPG


0.390" dai hole drilled. Chips show cast iron.
Ex_flywheel%2B0.390%2522%2Bhole%2Bdrilled.JPG


Set up the 0.3932" dia reamer (0.0005" under size 10mm) in a floating reamer locator to finish the dowel pin hole.
Ex_flywheel%2B10mm%2Breamer%2Bset%2Bup..JPG


Apply reamer by hand to finish the 10mm dowel pin hole.
Ex_flywheel%2B10mm%2Breamer%2Bdone.JPG


10mm dowel pin holes done. They are 0.0005" undersized for a 10mm (0.39370") dowel pin. This produces a slight press fit with enough allowance for crank hole tolerance variations.
Ex_flywheel%2Bdowel%2Bpin%2Bholes%2Bdone.JPG


Here is what the fixture, locating pins, cutting tools looks like not including the milling machine.
Ex_flywheel%2Bdowel%2Bpin%2Btools.JPG



Bernice
 
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