manual pod switch?

Cougar72

Daily Driver
Hey Howdy

install a manual pod switch (or similar) ???

I just installed new LED headlights - Amazing. Its like driving with the sun attached to the front of your car. It increases my vision and safety immensely here in deer/elk country (Rural Colorado). I see a new dead deer every single morning on the roads and I figure that a deer strike in my X it could be fatal... ( but not so much in my F350)

The reason for my question is that these new lights contain Halos - White for DRL's (daytime running lights) and Amber for turn signals I would like to wire the DRL's to my white factory driving lights - and thus would want the PODs open and the DRL's "on" when my Lights are on "park". I also will wire the turn signals to my existing turn signals.

It is after all a small car - (tiny actually) so having DRL's turned on during some of my daytime driving cant hurt - right??

I have been studying the electrical diagram posted in the WIKI - (which is for an 1980- mine is a 1979) It looks like they may have changed the function of the parking lights. My parking lights ONLY illuminate when the car is OFF. conversely, when the car key is in the "run" position, setting the "park: position on the headlight switch does absolutely nothing - ...until you turn off the key, then the parking lights illuminate. The posted diagram makes it look like in 1980 the parking lights work BOTH running and not.

So I have 2 issues

1. Make the parking lights "work" while running - this should be easy, I have a few ideas that may solve it with a simple jumper at the headlight switch

2 Make the pods either go up - or simply stay up when the headlight switch is in PARK

here is my thought, I could isolate the motor control relay at pin 87A - basically interrupt this pin on the relay. I believe the pods would still open when switched to full "ON" headlight mode (with the car running) -but then would not close when the switch is clicked back into 'PARK" When the switch is clicked to "OFF" the pods would close. In effect I am simply blocking the "down" signal until the switch is returned to full "OFF"

with this done, If I wanted the pods up and the DRL's on, - I would click to full "ON" position, and then back to "PARK" (after the pods are open).

here is part of page 28 (from the WIKI) that shows where I would pull the pin contact on the relay. LARGE PURPLE ARROW TOP LEFT

Any thoughts ?



Check out my fully repaired and painted front end - with the new halo LED's lights installed... perfect fit ,albeit ever so slightly (1-2 degrees?) rotationally from straight up/down



as you can see, I have factory white driving lights and amber turn signals - these will be wired to the halos (not yet complete)

cheers! Eric.
 
Interesting question....
I had an 81 and when running, the pods would open with the parking lights on OR the with the headlights on. Upon shutting the ignition off the pods would stay open and the headlights would turn off. The 79 is not wired the same, as you have figured out. The 80 & 81 models are wired differently to accomplish the feature where the pods open when you turn on the parking lights (when the engine is running). Funny, I assumed that the 79 was the same as the 81 and I was trying to figure out how to make it where you could turn on the parking lights without the pods opening up. After much looking at the different diagrams, I went out to our 79 and low and behold, it worked the way I wanted it to, not like the 81. (We are installing a set of low profile LED running lights under the front bumper for the same reason that you want running lights....to be visible.)
I never totally figured out how the 80 & 81 systems worked, but by studying the two different diagrams for awhile (longer for me), you may be able to rewire your 79 to the 80 & 81 configuration. That should get you the result that you want. If I understand you correctly, my 81 worked that way. I think that you would need to thoroughly review the headlights page & the parking/license light pages.
Glad to hear that you like the LED headlights also. We just purchased a set for ours. Funny thing, our headlight housings appear to be rotated a bit also. We may address that, but haven't put any thought to it yet.
Hope this helps...
 
yup can do. Kinda did that

I will try to get something drawn up but basically, you will need an "on-on" switch. those are near impossible to find. so you are stuck with either an on-off-on or an on off.

look back a few posts of mine and you should find a few diagrams.

you will need power going to one circuit for up, and power going to the other for down. (hense the on-on) the on-off-on should be pretty simple. the on off can be done with another 5 pin relay. power goes through 87a when switch is off, and goes through 87 when the switch is on.


Odie
 
momentary

not sure if that would work unless you wanted to hold the button in until it is fully up or fully down.


odie
 
Eric... WHOOOAAA!

That's a lot of effort to turn on some lights... and I doubt the "running light" halos even require a relay.

Most 79's came with THREE console switches with the 4th hole filled with a blank. Why not get a another switch and simply locate it there... or, simply install a toggle (pointing down?) of sorts under the dash with an indicator light so you can remember to turn them off during the day.

The STOCK Parking Light switch configuration was purposely done for Europeans mostly with their narrow roads. When you PARKED the car these lights would be ON so traffic would avoid you and would go OFF when you started and drove off.

Looks COOL, but its been my experience that its really OK if yur gonna run into a Liquor Store for a pack of smokes and a Coke. Not good for a leisurely dinner...

UNLESS... you install LEDs all around.

Oh... its been MY experience that messing with that circuit probably contributed greatly to my premature hair loss too!

LASTLY... Two questions...

1. Did you install relays (HRM) so that you have a clean 12.6 VDC or better to the headlights themselves, LEDs or otherwise? If not, you could have as little as 10.7 VDC to the elements with other stuff running like WSWs. A relay fix for WSWs is mandatory for anyone not living in Phoenix or SoCal. Don't get me started with DVD players.

2. Pray, do tell us what brand, model, cost and where sourced of the LED headlights that you bought. Thanks~!
 
Only Partial success so far. Argh...

I have successfully installed a "Pod Down Disable" switch. It was super simple. I have a extra factory defroster switch installed in the right-most position of the center console where I had an empty switch position. I simply inserted the switch to break the connectivity of fuse Q (2nd to the last fuse in the block- short oddball 3amp fuse). The "defroster"switch seems more than able to support that low amp circuit without a problem.

With the switch "open" it simply eliminates the down signal voltage from reaching the pod motors. ...The pods will open but Never close ... Flip the switch closed (on) and the car returns to full normal factory operation.... It is sort of a "Pod UP Lock" situation. No cutting of wires, no drilling, no changes in fused protection - it was simple to just open the fuse connectors on the block and insert the switch.....and I have a factory looking dash with no new aftermarket switches anywhere.

Side note ... Old euro style fuses are just stupid, and I have not seen the short ones in decades.

BUT ALL THATmay not matter, because I cannot solve the Second problem: When this car was made, it was (and still may be) illegal to drive with just your parking lights "on" in parts of Europe...thus the car will NOT illuminate the parking lights once the key is In The run position.

I have tried so many things ... Relay operational changes, and manual jumpers. I can get the parking lights to work in both "park" and "headlight on" (yea) BUT the headlights then also come on in park (boo) as something "leaks" once the car is in "run". .... It's basically a situation where the wiring does not let me choose to JUST have parking lights once the car is running. My goal is to NOT rewire everything and to NOT butcher the factory harness... I am seeking a simple easy solution that can be easily reversed to full factory in the future if needed.. I am getting very frustrated.

I also have now wired-up the halos and turns signals on the pods , and they are way beyond awesome looking - So I really need to find a way to make this work.

I am a tad embarrassed to mention that I am an electrical engineer working for IBM... And the Italians of the 70's are beating me at my game.

I really need to get an accurate diagram for a 79 headlight circuit as the 1980 one posted in the wiki is WAY WAY different.

I will be out there with my VOM again this afternoon continuing to seek that ONE wire to pull or jump.
 
different?

wow. the one on the wiki was pretty spot on with my 79. colors varied a little, but most were right there. the flow of the circuits were exact. My PO did some hacking of the wiring and I used the diagrams in the wiki electrical troubleshooting to get it fixed. Except for the switch itself. the rest of the wiring is exactly like the diagrams. then I put in an on-off-on switch to replace the stock one. so I dont have "parking/running" lights. it is either off/down or on/up

Odie
 
Tony....YES I am loosing hair... It is falling out by the handful. And I Still need any help that anyone out there may have

You and I both just posted previously at the same time, so be sure to slide back and see my previous posting as it explains my current status.

I did use the blank switch position already, to solve the pod problem.

The headlights I bought are for sure Chinese ... But they work really well. Time will tell if they last. The quality looks good and the assembly looks good. Super nice powder coated heavy aluminum base. And super quality wiring.

I believe they are GENSSI brand... But as with anything from China it's hard to tell. They came in a plain old box with no branding- they may be generic clones, I don't hugely care.

I spent a long time studying these lights and all similar ones on eBay and Amazon. The following items list my important selection criteria

1. MOST have a CCFL (flourescent) halo..I DID NOT want that ...but it is really hard to tell which ones have the COld cathode. These require a special high voltage driver box, and I did not want more JUNK in my pod cavities..... I wanted simple LED .. also the high voltage drivers and the CCFL themselves are known to fail or go dim. I caution you to STUDY the seller Information and pictures as they look identical (CCFL & LED)

2. I wanted Amber led turn signals and white led halos. I just wired the halos last night and they alone are almost better than the factory incandescent output.

3. I wanted bulbs maxed at 60w each... There are plenty that go up to 140 or more..... My bulbs are stamped SAE/DOT but somehow I doubt it as they are still like the sun. I did not want to overly tax my wiring or alternator.

The best way to search is for "Jeep Wrangler LED headlights" ...this seems to show the most choices.


These bulbs have some really cool internal circuitry...the halos fade out to off when your turns or flashers are on... And then a internal timing circuit fades them back on, once the blinking operation stops... I will post a video and a link hopefully tonight.

Here is the link to what I bought on eBay. If you look closely in the pics you will only see the CANBUS adapters and some H13 adapters.. We don't need either of them, AND SPECIFICALLY NO CCFL driver boxes are in the pics.. Looking at what comes in the pictures seems to be the easiest way to tell if the halo is CCFL or full white led - (the ambers are generally always led on all brands,)... All these sellers are all clueless as to what they are selling and the descriptions are crap.

I may canabalize the nice H13 adapters, as they have a very nice H4 ceramic connector on them and my factory ( plastic brittle ) H4's on the X are a little ragged.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/401202709512?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


You also asked about my headlight circuitry... A PO had done a type of BWM (brown wire mod)... But there is no, and I have no plans for a dedicated headlight full batteryvoltage relay.... These new headlights are very low amps... Made a HUGE improvement in my running voltage overall. the factory wiring easily handles it without adding relays.

The lowest overall voltage I ever see is when turn on absolutely everything in the car (wipers are the worst) and the headlight bulb voltage drops to 10v at LOW IDLE...But these new lights stay at full brightness (they are rated for 10-32v). They do not dim out like the incandescent ones. I even tested with car stalled and everything on including brake lights,heater, wipers, radio, flashers, etc. voltage drops to 9.3v and they do not dim, and even less than 9v at headlight while cranking the starter..still no diming. It's fantastic!!!

So I have the pods solved , but please help me get my parking lights to run with the car running if you can....<sigh, frustrated grin>

Cheers Eric
 
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1979 parking lights

I just modified my 1979 parking light circuit to do what you want - parking lights stay on with the key on.

I am having trouble linking the images so I will try to describe the process.

pmNIr4DJj


in my car the relay is labeled as "headlights, motor relay, parking lights", but the relay doesn't do anything except control the parking lights - pull the relay and the headlights and pods operate as normal.

plQIjrt0j


the actual wiring takes about 5 minutes and is totally reversible.

1. disconnect the brown wire from terminal T of the headlight switch. insulate it so it doesn't short on anything.
2. make a short (~6") jumper wire with female quick disconnects on both ends.
3. disconnect the brown wire from terminal 85 of the lighting relay. insulate it so it doesn't short. replace it with your jumper wire.
4. connect the other end of the jumper wire to the spare terminal on fuse R.

that's it.

pmB6DoyMj


poAcpwA1j


hope this helps.

Jim
 
Jim ...THANKS. . I will give this a shot... I do notice that your words are slightly different than your diagrams.

You state "take 85 to to fuse R". But the diagram shows 86 to fuse R...

I am assuming the diagram is the correct one, and I can see your added jumper in the relay picture so that will be what I will perform.

It is also good for me to see the wires at your relay...I am a bit concerned that I do not recall the light blue w/red. Wire... I have a sinking suspicion that THAT may be part of my problem. I will know by tonight if this works.

MUCH MUCH obliged either way,!!,!,

...cheers Eric
 
Success !!

Jim... SPOT ON

Your change to the relay trigger works! (Minor point: your schematic shows 85 as ground, and on my car it's 86). But regardless, I'm wired just like your pics... So your schematic may be a tad off...OR my PO switched things around in his monkey business. ---Fixing these things in the 80's had to be hell without the information we have today.

Your change basically changes the "trigger" (that kills the parking lights) from key on/run ...to full headlight on. PERFECT!!

Can't thank you enough...

Here is a VIDEO of the operation and look of my POD's with the new headlights.
Note: I shot this while still fighting the above solution, so ignore my complaining.

http://youtu.be/gIpAjxSWsio

Cheers from Colorado......Eric
 
Thanks and Congrats...

For some reason I thought you had a '79 but obviously a much later car with A/C.

My car did not come with a High Beam relay, but now due to the HRM, it has a relay for Low and High Beams. Again I must note, each year up until the Bertones, the HL switch is usually UNIQUE to that year.

I'm glad you found a relatively easy fix and hopefully most of your hair will grow back...
 
Howdy! Black tooth. My hair is too far gone ..grin.

It's registered as a 79. The vin inspection and title search (what a pain) I had to do to get it registered, has it as a 79. Car was bought with a "skip title". ...my advice: don't buy a car without a clean/clear title.

And you are correct... It is an AC car.

All vin plates match with the frame at the windshield.... 79, 1500 5-speed, carby 28/30 (now 32/32) Non Cali emissions.
 
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