New guy starting to look for an X1/9

beezee

True Classic
Hi Folks!

I am hoping to one day be posting on this forum as the owner of an X1/9, and not just a guy looking for one. Anyway, this past weekend I went to look at an X1/9 for the first time. The car looked great but my trusty little magnet failed to stick to the area in front of, and behind, the rear wheel arch (from what I have learned this is a common problem). The area below both doors seemed okay, as well as most of the front end of the car. I did notice some perforation in the body where the rear most corner of the hood sits. It can't be seen when the hood is closed (I am hoping this describes the area). I can't see why it would rust there. Is this a common location for rust? Is this something easy to fix or does it indicate a more serious problem?

Regardless, I'm still considering the car, but I would like to see a few more before I take the leap, so if anyone knows of a decent car for sale in southern Ontario, Canada I would appreciate hearing about it (I posted in the for sale/wanted section).

beezee
 
Windshield surround areas rust, you could be seeing an area that wasn't fixed very well because it doesn't show much, if it was a band aid fix then it will come back. we're talking the bottom of the windshield where it meets the metal, especially in the corners but all along there. Is this car in an ad somewhere so we can see it?
 
Looks good from here but can't tell much from those pictures. Not running? "intent to get it on the road", what does it need to "be on the road"
 
The guy was pretty honest about the car. It needs a new fuel pump as it will run for a while when primed but then dies. He is going to replace the pump. The pump is an inline electric item. Is this original, or should it be a mechanical pump?

From my initial inspection it looks like the drivers side floor pan needs replaced. It definitely has had body work done in the past, and it looks like a decent job, but it's hard to say for certain.

The interior is good and it has leather seats. Is the leather original or have they been recovered?

The car is sold uncertified.
 
75

Welcome to the forum. The car came originally with a mechanical fuel pump. The 75 would have had vinyl seats with much thinner bolsters. Looks like a decent car from the pics, but pics can be deceiving. Good luck on the hunt!
 
Looks nice!

Looks nice and solid from the pics, but based on what you've already said, there could be lots of rust problems lurking if the wheel arches, floor plan, trunk and possibly the windscreen are/have been affected. Rust like that - especially on X1/9s - comes back quickly if not properly taken care of. The rust questions - plus the mechanical issues - also make me think the asking price is on the high side for a non-runner. And if you can't drive it, you are taking a gamble on potential braking/handling and other unknowns. But still, the car could be a great deal if you can get it for 2 grand or less. I'd also budget to change the wheels to something more period correct - but that's just my opinion. Good luck!
 
ross6200, your thinking is pretty much along the same lines as mine. I am still considering going back to get a better idea of the rust damage. I would really like to get a good look at the underside of the car.

As you have already stated, I would prefer more "period correct" wheels.

I really enjoy working on all things mechanical, so in my case finding a car that requires work is not a major problem. I just don't want to be paying "good car prices" for a project car. In the past I have restored about a dozen motorcycles and I am getting a little tired of them, so I thought a car restoration would be a nice change of pace. That, and the X1/9 is a really nice looking little car!
 
beezee .... Another option may be getting a west coast car. Other than my issue with the key being snapped off it is possible to transport one here for around $1000 CDN. I personally stayed away from out of country cars only because I have never done it. Given that these cars were not very expensive I wonder if you will be able find a local car that has been stored every winter. Given that the salt remains on the road for a good while after that perhaps you would need a car that hasn't been driven until after April if you want one with little rust? I dunno, but I see American west coast cars selling for about $3000 CDN and even though there may be a bit of a hassle getting it here - if it works out you could have a clean one.
 
agreed, buy the best body you can, all the rest is chump change compared to rust issues, I've put a lot of time into getting my car running and driving nicely but I started with a rusty car and guess what I have now? a rustier one!
 
BEST BODY

BeeZee - given that you like doing mechanical work, the X1/9 is about as simple a car to work on as they come. Not that every project is EASY (I am a few weeks into a 'simple' brake system overhaul). But that is what makes owning an X so enjoyable. Definitely go for the best body you can find and the mechanicals are not only simple, but cheap if you know where to look for parts. They are plentiful! Be diligent looking for any signs of rust! Having owned 4 (so far), I can't stress this enough. On most cars you might be able to remove or repair the bad panel. But with their unibody construction, rot on an X1/9 travels fast and can be structurally a PITA, or downright impossible to fix. Whatever you decide, good luck and enjoy. These are great cars to own, work on and DRIVE!
 
Hi!

Where in Southern Ontario are you (forgive me if I missed it). I'm in Toronto.

Feel free to contact me if you need any "Free" advice :)
 
Thanks for the offer Myron, as I'm sure I'll be looking for advice from time to time.

I am in Rockwood, just east of Guelph.
 
Cool! Congrats on the purchase. There are a few X1/9 guys in Ontario that are more than willing to help out. I've owned mine for 27 years, and have had many others, including a race car. Anytime you need anything, drop me a line!


Cheers.
 
I picked up the car today, and despite my fears it made the trip without any problems. Here are a few pictures:

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I bought this car from Dom.M, a member of this forum who decided he didn't have enough time for the project. The car is from Florida and is very clean with the original paint and no rust to be concerned with. Although the body is good the drive train needs work. It burns oil for the first little while and the transmission is pretty rough. Lots of "graunch" noises moving through the gears. The transmission is a 4 speed, so not original.

My first impressions:

- What a strange little car. Sort of a cross between a go-cart and a car.

- The controls are like nothing I have ever experienced before. It took a while to figure out the switches and knobs.

- The car definitely has a 70's feel to it.

I think I'm going to have fun with this thing.
 
Brian glad you made it home! The car is definitely a 5 speed. Not sure why you couldn't find 5th gear? It did work but I haven't driven it in a couple years. Enjoy the car.
 
Thanks for posting Dom, that's good to know. It may be a problem with the thing in front of the steering wheel (me). I tried to get in 5th a couple of times but it wouldn't go. I'll have to check it out this weekend. The temperature gauge worked its way up to 190 and stayed there for the entire trip (about 50km). It's pretty cool outside, so maybe that was the reason it didn't overheat. I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty!
 
Went back out to the car and tried the shifter again. It goes into 5th with no problems. Let's attribute this one to a "new owner error". I'll have to try it on the road tomorrow.

Now for a question: The brakes require a fair bit of stomping to bring the car to a stop and require much more force than a modern car. Is this normal?
 
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