1300 static timing?

Pattracy said:
5* or 10* BTDC for static timing of a 1300 x1/9?
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This should get a row out of some of you. I advance the distributor until the engine starts to cut out then back off until it smooths out. Putting a light on it usually shows ten degrees advance.
 
All good then... I knew one guy who...

took off the access cover of his 1500 FI and tweaked the dizzy until it stopped knocking... at 65mph.

Also... I believe the '74 1300's were a 10 degree static advance also but actually had a dizzy RETARD when running.

Your method (at least at idle) is a better than just sticking it at 10 degrees and calling it good... but that works pretty well also.

My 1500 is currently set at 7 degrees after much experimentation in eliminating a knock on 91 octane and 106 degree heat. The book calls for 5 degrees, it was suggested I set it at 10 (as if it was a 1300) and after a week or two of futzing around with it... using the method in paragraph 1, I finally settled on what I came to know as 7 degrees.

Always fun...
 
Guess and check. I also have left the access panel open and the dizzy loose enough to reach over and twist from in the driver's seat. Set at 10, warm it up, find a hill and accelerate up it listening carefully for any pinging, twist dizzy a tiny freckle if there is and repeat until there isn't. Pinging on mine sounds like tiny screws rattling in a coffee can. Didn't know what it was for a long time and thought my timing was good but no. I also have a 1500 FI but the process should be universal, factory spec is only a starting point. I disabled my vacuum advance this spring which eliminated the last remnants of knock. I also run 91octane.
Biggest thing I've learned so far is "factory spec is only a starting point" and too much advance is very bad :wall:
 
jvandyke said:
Guess and check. I also have left the access panel open and the dizzy loose enough to reach over and twist from in the driver's seat. Set at 10, warm it up, find a hill and accelerate up it listening carefully for any pinging, twist dizzy a tiny freckle if there is and repeat until there isn't. Pinging on mine sounds like tiny screws rattling in a coffee can. Didn't know what it was for a long time and thought my timing was good but no. I also have a 1500 FI but the process should be universal, factory spec is only a starting point. I disabled my vacuum advance this spring which eliminated the last remnants of knock. I also run 91octane.
Biggest thing I've learned so far is "factory spec is only a starting point" and too much advance is very bad :wall:
Click to expand...

Now I don't feel like such a shade tree mechanic. Well... at least not the only shade tree mechanic. I have thought about hooking up a cable to the distributor for adjustment on the fly.
 
Yeah... kinda a giant leap backwards... But in this...

day and age with crappy gas... it just might be the smart move.
 
Yep... on all counts. The first time I heard...

my car pinging I had no idea what it was either. The last car that I had that "knocked" was a '70 Duster 340 on hot days with 101 Octane... and it was a huge KNOCK, not a PING...

I guess the "ping" term musta come from Europe with small engines and shoddy gas back in the days...

As for your Vacuum Advance... I think you are missing out on some performance as well as gas savings and ease of operation here. I'm sure you've read my thoughts on this before. You might wanna reconsider.
 
Black-Tooth said:
As for your Vacuum Advance... I think you are missing out on some performance as well as gas savings and ease of operation here. I'm sure you've read my thoughts on this before. You might wanna reconsider.
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Maybe I'll hook it back up to test. Car has been running supremely well lately though (not to say it couldn't be much better but this is as good as I've ever gotten it to run). Pulls hard and am getting 30mpg which is pretty good for it. Sorry for hi-jack.
 
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