Wedged motor mount (Pic added) couple more pics added.

I found an interesting configuration in my 128 race car.
The snail mount is wedged to for the engine to lean toward the front of the car.

The only reasons I can come up with are:
1. Leveling the carbs (dual DCNF) but that seems unlikely to me.
2. Worn mount and the wedge is keeping it from rattling/moving.

My problem is I'm installing a new header and the collector is interfering with the floor-firewall seam. My thoughts are to move the wedge to the from side of the mount effectively leaning the engine back hopefully providing a bit more room at the seam.

I am curious what the collective thoughts are here, pictures to be added this evening.
The dog bone mount has been replaced with hiem joints, the lower trans mount is still rubber, I am also open to replacing it with a solid mount.

Pics:


What I am trying to fix:

I don't know 128s, but in a 1500 X1/9 maybe this would help keep the CV joint from dragging on the crossmember?

Good thought Ulix,
But this car has tripode style axles.

Thanks!

I can't see that this wedge accomplishes much of anything. The dog bone will fix the motor tilt angle. I'd remove the wedge and if that motor mount is loose, replace it. If you need to adjust the tilt of the motor, I guess I would make an adjustable dog bone but if the header is made for that car it should fit without any funny business.

Cut the header & reweld the outlet at a more appropriate angle to clear the frame.

super silly reply

look at the lower trans/engine mount for sagging, the dog bone isn't gone, and last and the silliest....check that the manifold is indeed for a 128 not an x. there is an 18% difference between the 128 and x as the motor sits more vertical and this might be an attempt to fix that.

long time ago went to several car shows/swap meets and saw a lot of down draft and side draft setups that stated "128 or x1/9". when I asked what it came off of they didn't know, so I drew out my micrometer and measured the difference and it wasn't going to fit what I had intended it for...(lying of course) and got them for a dime on the dollar.
mikemo

thoughts on fitment

how about removing the header and having the outlet ovaled for clearance. it is extremely close to the rack boot and that could lead to problems down the road. and when it is off, have a corresponding pipe made to slip fit and return to round under the car.
mikemo

Good point Mike,
The lower mount is good, and I know the person that built the header, it is definitely for a 128 not an X though my thoughts went there too.

I have removed the wedge, the snail joint is pretty sloppy, I would replaced it but it looks like MWB is out of stock on them right now. I will re-wedge the mount, but on the opposite side until a new mount can be obtained.

I am also reworking the dog bone mount, as mentioned before it is converted to heim joints and all thread. The all thread was screwed all the way into the ends so there was no adjustment to shorten it. I have removed about an inch of length, that should give me plenty of adjustment.

I am moving kind of slow on this as I am moving the shop and have to be out of my location by July 1st. The good news is my new shop is at my house. About 30 miles per trip, and the weather is getting hot! Tomorrow is forecast to be over 100, pretty early in the year for that high of temp.

Thanks everyone for the comments and advice. I am sure I can make this work, just not sure how yet...

snail mount

I have 4 or 5 here in good shape if you think it will help. you pay freight back and forth. if it works we will discuss your terms of surrender. having a heim joint on the dog bone can wreak havoc on all the other mounts
mikemo
e mail as follows..
mikemo90"at"aol.com

Re: Engine tilt - 128 vs. X1/9

Andy said:

I found an interesting configuration in my 128 race car. The snail mount is wedged to for the engine to lean toward the front of the car.

The only reasons I can come up with are:
1. Leveling the carbs (dual DCNF) but that seems unlikely to me.
2. Worn mount and the wedge is keeping it from rattling/moving.

Click to expand...

Your reason #2 seems very likely to me, especially with that much of the (center of the) rubber insert of the snail mount sticking out towards the rear of the car. With a worn-out center, the snail mount (& thus that end of the engine/trans assembly) will tend to shift fore-aft towards the front/rear of car when being driven, eventually wearing out (or breaking) other components like the exhaust header, lower trans mount, engine crossmember & radiator hoses/connection points (ie: stressing the upper hose port/tube on the radiator). That wedge may have been installed simply to keep things from shifting around - especially pertinent on a race car!

Another possible reason for the wedge may be that the engine was originally sourced from an X1/9, complete with the X1/9 oil pan & oil pump pickup. If the whole X1/9 engine assembly is installed into a 128 chassis, the bottom surface of the X1/9 oil pan & oil pump pickup will be tilted at an angle, & not sit flat/horizontal as it should be in a 128. This of course can lead to oil starvation issues/etc. during normal or spirited driving (ie: not good).

Tilting the engine forward using that wedge & a non-stock (ie: custom length) upper dogbone mount may have been an attempt by a previous owner to get the bottom of the oil pan to sit in the "correct" horizontal position without resorting to installing an actual 128 oil pan & oil pump pickup. Tilting the engine (basically pushing the top of the engine towards the front of the car) is also very likely why your 128 header is hitting the lower firewall corner.

I would suggest installing a factory 128 upper dogbone (or a custom one of the correct 128 length), including a 128 dogbone/cambox mounting bracket, & a new or known-good used snail mount, & see what you get. If this engine does have the X1/9 oil pan & pickup installed, change them to factory 128 parts instead (you can keep your oil pump, just change the pickup on it).

If your engine already has the 128 pan & pickup, just remove the wedge & swap the 2 upper engine mounts as noted above. This should result in everything fitting & being positioned as its supposed to be. :italia:

header

good call. best and fastest way to check ... is the pan metal, or aluminum. it should be steel. I still think that pipe is way to close to the rack boot.
mikemo

Engine is sourced from an X 1/9 1300, but adapoted to 128 spec including oil pan.

The car was built by Mark Frost who I am pretty sure knows what he is doing. The car did pass through a couple other owners between Mark and myself so who knows who has done what.

Can someone please offer the stock length of the 128 dogbone?
Center to Center on the bolt holes please. Thanks!

I completely agree the engine angle is the problem.

Mike thanks for the offer on the snail mounts, I'll keep it in mind, I have to admit the thought of replacing a snail mount with the engine in the car is not very high on my list of things to do... been there, done that.

Thanks Guys!

Re: dogbone

Andy said:

Can someone please offer the stock length of the 128 dogbone? Center to Center on the bolt holes please.

Click to expand...

The stock dogbone on my 128 measures approximately 9.75" between bolt centers.

Thanks Jeff! that helps a lot!

I don't have the original length of the dog-bone as I ground the threaded rod down before measuring it.

I took nearly another inch off the rod this evening, my dog-bone is now just over 8.5 inches.

I know that's shorter than stock, the header still contacts the seam on the firewall, but just barely. I am confident that grinding the seam down and maybe a little mechanical agitation should get me in the clear.

Thanks to everyone that offered assistance!

One more interesting note, the snail mount has settled in to a normal looking position with the wedge removed. I tried to wiggle the engine to see how much motion there was there, and it hardly moved. I'll certainly keep a close eye on that mount.