X1/9 parts digrams

beezee

True Classic
Are there any X1/9 parts diagrams available? Also called micro fiche diagrams or exploded diagrams, they basically show how the various parts go together.

They are really handy when you want to know how things went together "as built" in the factory.
 
miicro fisch

I still have some here that I will loan you if you have a reader. and be more specific if it's body or mechanical.
mikemo
 
Thanks for the kind offer mikemo, but I don't have a reader. To be more specific, I'm looking for the engine diagrams for an '83 Bertone. I've noticed a few fasteners that don't seem correct and/or in the wrong locations. I'm pretty sure I can sort it out myself, but it's nice to be able to refer to parts diagrams.
 
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Hi Beezee. Not sure if I ever welcomed you to the forum. I think you bought Dom's X ? Well, I have seen that car, and you got a good one !!

Yes, it needed some TLC, but is probably the nicest, most solid X I have seen up here in a long time. Nice to see it in good hands.

As for a parts manual, well they are available on the web if you poke around enough. I think there is one available for download (for free) on the MWB website somewhere. And other places too.

I have a paper version here. It only covers the '79-'81 models, but not too many changes to the later ones. If you have access to a photocopier, you are welcome to borrow it and copy it.

I hope you have a factory shop manual. Lots of pics and exploded diagrams in there. As well as specs and torque values and such. I have an original one of those as well. It covers up to '82 models. You can borrow that and copy it too if you want.

I also have the factory tool for changing the valve shims. You will need one for sure if you are taking the head off. If you dont have one, you can borrow mine.

Cheers, Doug
 
Hi Doug. Yes, I am the guy that bought Dom's X and I am amazed at how rust free the car is. The motor needs some TLC and I have the head pulled off it right now for valve seals. I'm also planning on replacing the rings and rod bearings while it's apart. I have the factory manual and there are some illustrations, but not always exactly what I am looking for.

I would like to take you up on your generous offer on loaning the valve shim tool. I checked all the clearances before I removed the cam box and most valves needed adjustment. I'll be in touch once I get the head back on!

Thanks again,

Brian
 
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Hi Brian. No problem at all. The tool is actually out on loan now. I wont have it back for about a week, so dont move too quickly LOL...

Dont worry too much about not having a parts diagram. The factory one is actually quite vague and inaccurate. Really only good for identifying parts # - and not so good as an assembly guide...

You had asked on the forum a while back about things you could do while the engine was apart to gain a bit of performance if possible. I meant to respond there, but your post quickly morphed into a full blown turbo discussion. Not I think what you were looking for...

But yes, there are certainly some simple things you can do - while you have the engine apart - that are not radical and are compatible with (and wont overwhelm) the stock fuel injection system. You will get many opinions on this subject, and I am certainly not an expert on the subject, but here is my 2 cents worth anyways...

Firstly, these engines were designed to have a CR higher than what we got over here. It was lowered for the NA market for 2 reasons: to meet emission regs, and to make the engine a non-interference design.

A quite noticeable increase in power and torque can be obtained by raising the compression to at least euro specs, which was about 9.2. The NA spec was about 8.5.

This can be achieved by several methods (different head, different pistons), or simply by shaving the head/and or block. Each have their advantages and pitfalls. And should match the fuel you intend - and are able to - run.

Here in Ontario the highest octane available is 94. Probably ( ???) good for a CR in the upper nines. BUT....these fuels (to the best of my knowledge) all contain varying amounts of ethanol. Which your fuel injection components were never designed for. I have seen the effects myself, and it is not pretty....

However.....Shell 91 (their highest grade) contains NO ethanol. The only fuel I have found here that doesn't. The safest bet in my opinion. This should work well with a CR in the low to mid nines.

So...aim for that. It will be safest for the injection system. And then optimize the engine for that octane. Will provide a decent power boost too.

Easiest way to achieve that is to simply shave the head. I sure hope you are intending to have the head skimmed anyway to ensure flatness and reliability, so just have them skim it a little more.

You can calculate the amount of shaving needed. My distant memory says it is about .025" or so. I would have to do the calcs again to be sure.

Disadvantages of shaving the head ? Some say it weakens the head, but I think that little amount doesn't. It will alter your cam timing slightly, but for that little shaving it should not be significant. Would be best to invest in an adjustable cam pulley to correct it and even add another couple of degrees of advance (that helps too). And if you shave too much, you will run out of tension adjustment on the timing belt. You will be okay if you only shave the head a bit. Any more and you will have to use a 1300 tensioner bearing (it is slightly bigger). And it is possible that shaving the head too much will turn the engine into an interference design. Not a problem if you change the timing belt at recommended intervals.

Secondly....the NA engines had a really mild cam - for emission reasons.
You can get a nice increase by changing it (really easy to do when you have the engine apart !!! ) to a euro spec one (pretty easy to find and get these days on Ebay UK or Germany or Italy ) or something like PBS SX1 type grind. Just dont go too wild like a 40/80 cam - the stock FI system wont like it, and your X will idle like a dragster. Something like a euro cam will really make a difference, and still give a nice smooth powerband.

These two above things would certainly give you the mild increase you are looking for. And at a pretty reasonable cost. And now would be the time...

And while the engine is apart, some mild porting/polishing/matching would certainly yield some benefits for almost no cost if you can do that yourself.

Next up would be to free up the exhaust. With a header or double outlet manifold for a '74 US or any euro X. And a lower restriction cat and muffler. A good gain to be had there.

I will stop rambling now..... If you have any questions or need any help, just ask. Doug
 
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Thanks for the advice Doug. I have done a lot of thinking about what I want to do with the motor and have decided to rebuild it to stock specs. This will (hopefully) get the engine running properly without a big investment, and also tell me how the car performs in it's stock form, "benchmarking" for lack of a better word.

The next step will be to take the transmission apart this winter to fix a bit of a gear grinding issue which I assume to be a worn synchro problem.

When I bought the car it came with a spare motor, so this will be my "sandbox". I can build up the spare motor, time and cash permitting, with the modifications you are suggesting. This will allow me to take my time, search for the parts I want at a price I can afford, while at the same time having an X to drive. The nice thing is, if I mess it up I still have the original stock motor.

I won't need the tool for a few weeks at best. I still need to order parts and then begin the reassembly.
 
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