Clutch adjustment

barefoot

Daily Driver
The clutch on my 77 1300 has to be pressed all the way to the floor to work properly is there any way of adjusting it so it will work higher up to give smoother changes and to make it easier?
 
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If the "sweet spot" has changed recently, suspect hydraulic failure soon (master cylinder). Where is the slave rod adjustment currently? How long since you've flushed the fluid? Maybe bleed a bunch through to ensure it's not air in the system, although heavy master cylinder use during bleeding can push a failing master over the edge.
 
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I agree with Jeff.

There is no adjustment with hydraulic clutches (other than minor adjustment of the slave rod to set lever play for initial setup), so any change in engagement means normal component (disc/PP/ T/O) wear or failure of hydraulic parts and/or pedal pivot components.

Basically, check your system for any signs of leakage at either end and excess play in the pedal and trans lever pivots.
 
... and put some shoes on too!

HA!

You didn't mention if the slave is showing any signs of leakage. But that's OK... You'll find when installing the NEW slave cylinder that the clutch adjustment rod will give you a great deal of pedal adjustment with just a few turns.

ALSO... Be advised, purging air from this system can be a real "challenge". Let us know when you get there and we'll explain more.
 
HA!

You didn't mention if the slave is showing any signs of leakage. But that's OK... You'll find when installing the NEW slave cylinder that the clutch adjustment rod will give you a great deal of pedal adjustment with just a few turns.

ALSO... Be advised, purging air from this system can be a real "challenge". Let us know when you get there and we'll explain more.

Be ready to crack some lines! HA! ;)
 
A slave replacement is easy but I highly doubt it will help you. If there's no fluid coming out of the slave (peel the boot back a bit where the rod comes out) then it's probably fine. Master replacement is a whole lot more involved but likely where you're headed. I'd still do a flush and bleed with the current components just to see what it does. Only takes a few minutes and cost nothing (the fluid you put in is going in anyway when you do the master).
 
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