Melted Piston.

2 things... i had some one ask about thermo adadaptors for tipo heads... and this thread sums it up for home made.

and secondly... Hussein, did you ever get this to a dyno? do we have more than just an estimate...I.e. real world performance number, like it would take X seconds to climb this hill and top out at xxmph ...l and now does Y sec and YYmph (for example)

SteveC

Hi Steve

Yes - a threaded adaptor tapped for the TTS :)

X19LH24_00108.jpg



I haven't gone to a dyno. I was still working on trying to install the Saab version ECU & MAF, since those can be tuned, vs. the Volvo units that cannot. It does run really well, though.

I will get the car out of the garage once winter is done. A dyno session should be possible after that.
 
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Is that your oil pressure at idle warm or cold? My k20 oil pressure is below 55 when warm/idle. Wondering if yours is normal for 1500 Fiat? I don't recall the PBS engine being over 55 unless cold. Maybe my sender needs to be replaced...:hmm:

Found a source for Stewart-Warner style OP senders - they register resistance values inverse of the VDO style - which should bring my gauge back into proper register :)

Screen%20Shot%202015-03-29%20at%2011.06.31%20PM_zpshtpap6ka.png
 
strut towers

I am taking frank p's 79 apart now and if you want or need them, the shock supports look pristine. I have left them with a lot of metal around them, but they are on a trailer going to the metal recycling shop, and the trailer is leaving on Tuesday.
leeme know
mikemo
mikemo90"at"aol dot com
 
Car now has a few K miles since engine was built, so I switched to synthetic today. Tried that SW sender, no go. Gauge reads diddly with it connected, so I put the VDO back in. I can live with reading it reverse scale.

Changed out the T/stat, since I could not recall whether I replaced it after the motor build. I did find that I had a Super Stant 180º (45378) in there, but the warmup cycle was inconsistent, sometimes it would go over 190º before t/stat would open, other times not.
 
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Found that the expansion tank feed hose (lower) was seeping at the T/stat housing. Presumably this also allows the system to suck in air, as I have still had inconsistent temp issues.

Couldn't find a direct replacement online, although Bayless does have alternatives not listed on the site.

I found a Volvo oil cooler feed hose ( 9496493) that provides a suitable connection, just has to be shortened.

X19_0303.jpg


X19_0320.jpg



Warmup and driving temps seem more consistent, but I STILL have temps riding over normal when stuck in heavy stop & go thruway traffic. Also coming to a halt after an aggressive highway jaunt can cause a rise over normal before it normalizes.

I did raise my base idle to over 850rpm, which helps, and if I engage the cooling fans before coming to a halt, that helps. I just shouldn't have to!!

I may need to add a electric circulating pump, as the system heat soaks as soon as it's shut down hot.

I've replaced every component now (except heater core), set the water pump impeller gap, have a larger capacity rad, higher flow electric fans, body tubes are completely clear. Overall, it's very good, in that highway & town temps are consistently just below normal, running the 180 degree SuperStant . It's just the heat soak / hot after-run idling issue , really .

Normal gauge reading, heater off



Anyway, I guess I will be forever screwing with the cooling system, it seems :(
 
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Not familiar with the breakdown of synthetic oils. Does the synthetic oil that you've chosen have zinc additives in it or are you adding zinc additives to your oil?

I haven't put enough mileage on my stroker build to switch to synthetic just yet so I'm still running 15w40 conventional oil with ZDDP zinc additive added.
 
Modern 15w40 conventional and 5w40 synthetics have plenty of cam protection built and don't need an additive. Also, cam wear on these engines is almost unheard of regardless of the type of oil used. I rebuilt my engine 20 years and 40K miles ago. It's had synthetic (mostly 5w40 w/2 year/5K OCI) since day one and uses less than a quart in 5K miles and the cam is perfect. Never used an additive of any kind. I doubt many people would get different results under similar circumstances.
 
I switched to 5W40 synthetic, I use this in my Volvo also, which runs to much greater extremes (8500rpm/26psi/largeframeturbo). I'm not using any additives.
 
Replaced the rusted Walker 12266 I had installed just a few years ago. Sounded like crap. Installed a nice Magnaflow SS version of the 12266

X19_0154b.jpg
 
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Looks like I got to the bottom of the excessive idle temp when getting off the highway. The 10" eFans I bought (from SiliconeIntakeSystems) were highly ineffective. Also I had installed a lower temp thermoswitch, and in fact it was not switching on when normal temp was achieved. I reinstalled the factory 92/87c switch, and two more expensive fans, and so far all is good.

The 3" collector gasket (from Summit) I had bought when I redid the muffler also blew out - was giving me flaky AFR at idle. Replaced that today.
 
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Going to work on adding an EDIS 60-2 wheel to the crank pulley, so I can switch to LH2.4 & the later EZK ignition. Not having any luck with trying to remap or even raise the RPM limit built into the LH2.2 setup.

Wheel will be fitted to the outer lip of the modded crank pulley, using the existing threaded holes in the original hub area

I can use the old outer pulley to accurately drill the locating holse& enlarge the center. I plan to add spacers to offset the disc correctly. Just have to figure out where to place the CPS (3547847) & fabricate a mount for that
 
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So....

you want to tell the rest of us what the two expensive e-fans were?:geek:
That sounds plausible. I notice, too that the factory thermo switch appears to have a wide range of on and off temperatures from switch to switch.
 
you want to tell the rest of us what the two expensive e-fans were?:geek:
That sounds plausible. I notice, too that the factory thermo switch appears to have a wide range of on and off temperatures from switch to switch.

Sorry Larry - they were off Amazon (CFR performance) - about $50 each with shipping. Not really expensive, since you can buy some that are closer to $100 ea, I just don't see the point in that.

specs:
10 inch high performance universal electric radiator cooling fan.
The fan is a 10 piece curved blade type.
The motor is reversible and the fan is 12 Volt 2446 RPM and 800 CFM 7amp draw on start up, approx 5amp continuous.
The high torque motor features sealed ball bearings and fully balanced blades which insure low noise levels and a long life of smooth operation.
Dimensions: 11-1/4" x 10-5/8" x 2-1/2".
 
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Working on the Crank pulse wheel & bracket setup

will be something like this

X19-LH24-00001z.jpg


Have to make sure tooth is actually aligned with TDC, then rotate tooth wheel CCW 90 relative to TDC & have it drilled to fit on the three studs originally used to locate the outer split pulley.

Diagram B

X19-LH24-00001zb.jpg
 
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Been driving the X the past few days - running well enough. Today it started acting up as I approached my highway exit - started running very rich & smelled like burnt coolant.

Pulled the plugs -

X19_0321.jpg


#1 is soaked. Sprays coolant out the plug hole.

Compression:
#1 250 #2 215 #3 215 #4 215

No oil in coolant, or coolant in oil.

I'll have to pull the head & see whats up. Hoping its JUST the HG. Maybe I need a different brand. Maybe I need to do the retorque routine next time...

Bad timing, as the Volvo is apart with a blown Angle Drive, worn left axle, worn fore/aft driveshaft - not bad for 190K & 500AWHP, but still inconvenient :(
 
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EDIT: All HG issues (except last one, miscut guide holes caused fire ring overhang) were due to ignition mapping - too much mid range advance

Got the head off today. Can see where the HG blew out to the water jacket in the head. Noticed that the US head doesn't have a water passage in this location (no hole in head gasket or block to allow flow) so I'm going to have that welded shut.

X19_0298.jpg


detail

X19_0304.jpg


hell of a lot of carbon buildup for such short usage. I'll remove all that before re assembly.

X19_0300.jpg


Now I'm wondering if the collars are too long to allow proper compression of the HG - the block was decked, as was the head (just to clean it up), so I assumed the collars were OK at stock length. I'll measure the depth of the block & head recesses to confirm yea/nea on that.

Going to use the thicker HG available from MWB.
 
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I know I might find it somewhere in your thread, but with the decked head and block, what length head bolts did you use?
 
I used stock length bolts from MWB. I'll double check, but I don't recall any evidence on the bolt tip of bottoming out.

Last head gasket I did (before the PBS swap) I swapped out for short bolts and the dowel/guides (I think you are calling them collars) were too big as well and I use slight shorter ones. Bernice (I think) had suggested slightly shorter bolts after I explained my engine mods. I also used the thicker HG.

Good luck...!
 
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